ongoing problem with 84gn

turbo84gn

I'd rather be waterskiing
Joined
May 24, 2001
I originally got the car from my brother, (he owed me money, and I am still on the losing end of that deal!). It had sat for several years due to a blown transmission. The following takes place over the period of three years. I am also working on remodeling the house, new kid, college at night, a Dad that insists that I work on his 87GN and his house instead of my projects! So if the following looks familiar, that's because I have posted before. But I tried what was suggested; it didn't work; so I am posting again with an update.

First thing I did was overhaul the transmission (three years ago now).

Before starting engine for first time, I did the basic tune-up stuff. New plugs, wires, fuel filter, PCV, etc., etc., etc., When I did attempt to start engine for first time after tranny rebuild, no oil pressure. Taking apart the oil pump to pack it with vasoline I found very heavy grooves worn in the plate, so I machined it flat and re-installed it. Everything ran well, I was able to drive the car, so I thought "Great! Now to work on the interior!"

As soon as I drop the seats off at the shop, the motor decides not to run anymore. So over the next couple of years I am attempting to find out what went wrong (so much for interior restoration!)

I kept getting plugs that shared a coil to foul (I later found out it was coincidence), even after replacing the coil pack, so figured it was the module itself. Upgraded the module to the 87 version (84 replacement was expensive!). I used the instructions on gnttype.org Still the same problem. Note: I first used a used GM stock unit, then I used a new Wells ignition module. Same results.

Close inspection showed many cracks in the headers, had them fixed. No Improvement.

Checked compression. Lowest cylinder was 145 lbs (checked it cold).

After lots of reading I knew that it couldn't be the crank sensor, because it sort of wanted to run, so I started looking into the cam sensor as the culprit. New cam sensor and plugs (I have gone through several sets of plugs because of the fouling problem). Still no success.

Then (this recently, about two months ago) Dad asks me "How old is that gas?" Pause from me as I think dumbly.

I then pump out about 5 gallons of very yellow varnish. Add 5 gallons of AGRI-Plus 90 (our local gas station has a pump that has a gasoline that has additives for lead replacement, detergents, stabil, anti-varnish, etc., etc., very good for older equipment or stuff that doesn't get used a lot) and new plugs, again. Now it tries to run if I feather it. Acts now like it is out of time. But I was very happy! This was an improvement over the last few years.

I still have the 233 regulator. Pressure is solid at 30lbs. No leak down, even after an hour. As another troubleshooting step, I used injectors that just came out of my Dad's 87 which was running perfectly before they were removed (he upgraded to 42.5lb). When I pumped the old gas out, I had a very solid stream.

Removing the front cover showed the worst timing chain I ever saw. Beleive it or not, but all of the nylon was intact, but with deep grooves worn in it, as well as in the crank sprocket. The chain was so bad that when I "squeezed" it in the middle, they could darn near touch!

Timing chain installation is complete, but still doesn't want to run right. I am certain that the timing chain is on right, I had my Dad and my brother double-check me. I have uploaded a saved turbo-link ECM file on my homepage at http://www.geocities.com/turbo84gn/cars/cars.html

I can get the car to run if I feather the gas at about 1400 rpm, but I get a steady backfire. If I let off the gas it will die. I have verified spark on all six. But I am pulling wet plugs out. It really sounds like it's out of time, and there seams to be excessive crank case pressure (smoke/fumes coming from breather).

I then removed the valve covers to make certain that all of the valves were opening and closing. My calibrated eyeballs tell me that all of the rockers appear to have the same amount of travel.

Maybe I am overlooking something simple? Maybe I didn't seat all of the wires all the way onto the plugs or something.

I'm ready to pull it next to the road and put a FREE sign on it!

Any suggestions and what to look at next?

Arthur Keene
turbo84gn@yahoo.com
84GN (all stock - maybe soon all scrap!)
 
Are you positive that the timing chain is on correctly??? That really does sound like the timing chain is off...With the mark on balancer at 0* TDC, you should be able to rotate(spin) both pushrods on #1 cyl...

If the crank sensor wasn't good, the motor would even start at all...Same with the cam sensor...
 
Here is a guess that might help , Check the injector plugs real good , i had the same problem and found that one or two of the plugs where just setting on the injector but not on good. Also how long where the injectors out of the car when you put them in , maybe froze up one or two injectors.

it was worth a shot:)
 
FJM568 - I still have the valve covers off, so I will check the push rods tonight. I am 99.9% positive that the timing chain is on right. I had my dad double-check me and my brother (certified dealership mechanic) double-check before I put the front cover back on.

crazygn - I am starting to wonder if my "new" wires might be a problem. They are 8.8 Accels, no mileage, but bought two years ago, at least. Several removals/installations of fouled plugs may have caused a connection problem. Some of the plugs are wet when I yanked them out to check.

Is it possible that I already fixed the original problem and am now fighting a new one that may have appeared along the way?:(
 
Just get a set of the lifetime plug wires that you can get at Autozone, O'reilly's, etc...Try them out...Unless you screwed up a couple, the car should at least run some...

By the way, I've heard about a brand of plug wires that have been tried by someone a few years ago, and for some reason, they didn't work to well on these motors...The Accels might be them...I don't know for sure, though...The gnttype archives might have the info...

And in answer to your last question, YES, it is very possible that you already fixed the problem but found a new one...

Good luck...
 
I think I finally found my problem causing the car to run rough (read through previous posts to see history of problem).

It turns out that a new ignition module was bad. Even though I had spark when connected to a grounded spark plug, it wasn't enough to fire the timing light. I moved the connections on the coil to make sure it wasn't the coil, but problem moved with the connection. I also swapped plug wires.

Question: This is an 84GN that I upgraded to the 87 C3I module. Can I assume that if I made any mistakes on the wring conversion that it won't run at all? The fact that it runs (looking at the wiring schematic) should mean that the wiring is correct?!

P.S. (no flames please) My Dad was trying to help and picked up the module for me one weekend at (ackkk!) AutoZone. (He wanted me to get the car running in time so that we could go to a car show togethor with our GN's) After looking through archives, is there anyone that has a working AutoZone module? I obviously can't return for refund (had it too long), but I can exchange it.
 
so you're saying the IAC was bad? I know we had to feather the car to get ours to start when this went bad for whatever reason. Now you say you replaced the injectors, were these also stock? If not you may have a chip issue. Need a chip that is set up for the injectors. Also if the cam sensor is a 180 degrees out the car will run but run crappy and could cause the same issues you are having. Let us know what you find.
 
The tech at autozone tested the ignition module and it tested good. (I was impressed, they have quite the little collection testing equipment!). I had a GM dealership mechanic in the store overhearing us tell me yesterday that a crank sensor growing old and week (magnets) can cause a misfire condition, not picking up all the windows on the crank. I assumed that if it ran at all (even poorly) that that usually meant that the crank sensor was good. Autozone offered to test the sensor for me. Any input?
 
we all need spare o2 sensors that are known to be good,if you washed alot of spark plugs,try another o2 and a fresh fuel filter.please keep us updated.
 
I emailed you some information let me know if this helps. This person is top notch and should be able to help.
 
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