Ok guys, tell me what I have here

[5L33P3R]

Well after searching through all the paper work that I was given with the '86GN I found a parts list of some of the stuff thats on the motor. most of it is kb part numbers but I would like to know exactly what I'm working with so I can get that TT chip coming. Heres a list of what I have found.

from kenne belle:
kb18202 oil pump kit
kb89006w stage 3 turbo /w canister
kb99300 70mm TB&man
kb99211 70mm TB adaptor
mk1txb EF 231 cam turbo
kb10002 lifters 75 up v6
kb11001 valve spring [#7]
kb11107 no wiggle retainers
KB10201 non adj pushrods
kb11202 valve locks

from conley's performance plus:

minimag module converter lockup
minimag chip
160 thermostat
jacobs sparklug wires
k&n air filter 9"X3"
k&n d/s & p/s breathers
inlet bell plug
underdrive pulley
boost valve
voltmaster
walboro HF intank pump
trans cooler
adj fuel press reg
terry houston ss 3" downpipe
exhaust system 3"
exhaust temp gauge & probe
pinion snubber
36# injectors

Thats as much as I could find. couldn't see anything about different stall converter. I was told it has one and it seems to. how can i find out?
The car runs pretty darn well yet I have a ses code for cam sensor circuit failure but it starts fine-not a no start condition. also the car wants to kinda die after being in full throttle boost and letting off the pedal-think its the higher stall converter? I seen where turbo tweak chips have anti-stall feature but do i need to know what rpm the stall converter is?
any info/thoughts/weirdness with this setup is more that appreciated.

-len

 

[salvageV6]

You can pull the inspection cover off and look to see if you have a stock converter on there, it's about 11" diameter, many aftermarkets are smaller diameter 9-10" needing the chip feature, and the stocker is stamped very lightly all the way around it D5 front edge.

A picture of that should be in the archives somewhere.

You won't need to know the stall of the converter to make a chip.

However you can brake stall it by pressing firmly on the brakes and seeing what rpms the wheels start to move at, obviously do it at a safe open area in case you slip or it takes off on ya.

What code number is it showing?

 

[5L33P3R]

code 41 i belive. I had two codes when i purchased the car one was for TPS and I got that taken care of. the other was for cam sensor. is there any way to test if the ecm is getting the correct signal? i'm pretty handy with a DVOHM i just dont know in what order/wires to test. does the signal go from cam sensor--->ign module---->ecm?

 

[mikestertwo]

Correct, the signal from the cam sensor goes to the ignition module. The module sends a signal to the ecm to start the injector sequence and timing reference.

 

[Lee_Burough]

Look here for a truck load of information and specs you will need eventually. Also, look under "BASICS" and redo the TPS and IAC procedures. Your car wanting to die is likely caused by TPS and IAC being out of spec (if you change one, the other needs to be readjusted).

Look here for a quick reference of normal operating specifications. And here for more instructions to adjust the IAC.

Its good that you have mastered a volt/ohm meter, but you need a scan tool to make these adjustments easier and to monitor other important factors affecting the way your car runs....Most importantly, you need it to monitor tune and knock. I'd recommend an audible knock detector that will beep whenever you should take your foot off the accelerator pedal (saving your head gaskets from failure).

Go here for a complete list of Malfunction codes, and typical causes for each code.

Do a lot of reading in the General buick tech section, Vortex Buicks and gnttype.org before you start changing things.

A suggestion: Disconnect the battery for one minute to erase the Malfunction code in the ECM. Drive it and see if the code comes back. (you can disconnect power to the ECM by unplugging the orange connector on the radiator side of the battery compt.) Occasionally, one malfunction will trigger other codes that really are not valid, that is why you want to reset and drive it to see if the code comes back again.

The changes indicated by your receipts (if the parts are actually in there) are just fine and should give you a good running car like it is. the 36 pound injectors are a bit dated, but should still function well enough to spin the tires easily. After the scan tool and auddible knock detector, consider an alchy kit. You don't have to do much else to be a quick car (with the right tune) just the way it is.

I was stationed in Great Falls and flew helicopters All over the state of Montana....Some gorgeous sites and marvelous outdoors there -but winter lasts a long time Great hunting! Where are you located?

 

[Bodhi]

Thanks for the link to Vortex Buick. Very informative. I've never seen that page before. Great reading.

Thanks again,
Scott

 

[5L33P3R]

Thanks for all the info/links. I did reset the ecu and the same code comes right back up after about ten seconds. as for the parts actually being on the car..I also recieved a gigantic box of all the stock parts that were on the car beforehand. Oh, and about the long winters, your right about that lived here in butte all my life. however the car runs very well when it's -20F outside. I'll get to readin. thanks again.

-len

 

[Lee_Burough]

Thanks for all the info/links. I did reset the ecu and the same code comes right back up after about ten seconds. as for the parts actually being on the car..I also recieved a gigantic box of all the stock parts that were on the car beforehand. Oh, and about the long winters, your right about that lived here in butte all my life. however the car runs very well when it's -20F outside. I'll get to readin. thanks again.

-len

One cold winter day in about 1973, I passed over to Butte from across the open pit....At tree top level and about 90 mph, was quite a shock to see that sudden altitude....It seemed a mile deep! Montana is a pretty place.