I did alot of searching here on installing an electric oil gauge and it seems im going to be putting a T in to run the oem sender and the autometer sender so the idiot light still works and it completes the fuel circuit(if i have that right). But i have three questions that i cant find in my searching and they are. What size T do i get, all male ends im assuming? How tough is it getting to the stock sender,and does anything need to be removed? Lastly does any oil spill out when removing the sender,car will be cold. Thanks guys i appreciate it..
Oil pressure gauge and T questions
- Thread starter djj624
- Start date
chrisgarrett
Registered Member
- Joined
- Jun 2, 2004
Not sure if i have it completely rite but when i was doing some searching i read something about the wires to the stock sender control the idiot light as well as (again if i remember right) making sure the car cuts fuel if oil pressure drops.. Dont really remember all of it but ill look for the post.
salvageV6
Daily Driver
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
The factory sender works as follows, completes a ground on one wire when the oil pressure is below 4psi. or shuts the light off above 4psi oil pressure.
Also has 2 other wires the fat ones so that when the car builds over 4psi. pressure the switch CLOSES the connection and the fuel pump will get power in case the fuel pump relay/ECM or that circuitry fails in the car it will still run after the engine cranks up over 4psi. pressure.
It's a redundant circuit.
You would best be using a T fitting with one end male threads the other two female threads, you can screw in the male threads into the hole in the block, factory switch into the end of it, and the aftermarket gauge into the side female fitting, aftermarket gauge adapter fitting (usually included with most gauges) will most likely be needed if it's a 1/8" NPT aftermarket gauge sending unit fitting.
You can use a T fitting with all female NPT threads but will need a close nipple on one end which is 2 sets of male threads on about a 1" long tube. That could screw into one end and give you a male thread output to screw into the block. Should you not be able to find the proper fitting as described above, one extra NPT connector used.
All NPT threads get a dab of teflon pipe dope for sealing.
Also has 2 other wires the fat ones so that when the car builds over 4psi. pressure the switch CLOSES the connection and the fuel pump will get power in case the fuel pump relay/ECM or that circuitry fails in the car it will still run after the engine cranks up over 4psi. pressure.
It's a redundant circuit.
You would best be using a T fitting with one end male threads the other two female threads, you can screw in the male threads into the hole in the block, factory switch into the end of it, and the aftermarket gauge into the side female fitting, aftermarket gauge adapter fitting (usually included with most gauges) will most likely be needed if it's a 1/8" NPT aftermarket gauge sending unit fitting.
You can use a T fitting with all female NPT threads but will need a close nipple on one end which is 2 sets of male threads on about a 1" long tube. That could screw into one end and give you a male thread output to screw into the block. Should you not be able to find the proper fitting as described above, one extra NPT connector used.
All NPT threads get a dab of teflon pipe dope for sealing.
Jimmyboost87
Member
- Joined
- Jan 18, 2015
Yes but what about the oil feed tube that feeds the turbo?? You would have to tee off the factory tee right??
Jimmyboost87
Member
- Joined
- Jan 18, 2015
Thank you for the help. I get on my PC and post the pix of what I did. It came out good
Jimmyboost87
Member
- Joined
- Jan 18, 2015
Yes that's a good question... I'll be installing one on my car. I would like to know also
If the hotwire relay is in the back and triggered by the original FP power feed, then no. It will not take the factory wiring and relay out of the loop.
If you trigger it with the test connecter behind the alternator, I'm not sure, I'd have to look at the wiring schematic to see if that port is pre or post relay.
If you trigger it with the test connecter behind the alternator, I'm not sure, I'd have to look at the wiring schematic to see if that port is pre or post relay.
I believe I was told that I did not need to have that factory sender or the wires connected on my car for it to run. The female connector was completely melted that was a concern of mine about reconnecting it. I have a hot wire kit but I am still using the factory wires too close the relay at the back of the car. I was not planning on putting the factory sender or a new one in and I was going to abandon the factory female side. The car is still apart and I happened across this thread by accident. This is some good information and I would really like to know whether or not for certain the factory wires need to be connected or jumped
- Joined
- Nov 30, 2009
I believe the test connector is post relay because I just use it to prime my new fuel system by running a wire from the + battery terminal ( Racetronix Double pumper with hotwire).
