noob here asking for assistance please

[spoolie]

first let me show her to you guys...





now...i fly to nyc to drive this car back...runs fine during the test drive...about 20 mins. close the deal, leave, get to Penn. and car acts funny...stumbles, black smoke, wont idle...

take the car back to nyc and say fix or refund...they put maf sensor on then it idles...but when car get hot it makes the c.e.l. flash and doesnt run:?\\


advice is needed people please.



edit...i cant post pics yet.

 

[spoolie]

we trailered her home...wasnt cheap...i cleaned the maf with cleaner....tuner thinks it a boost leak...i dont think so....if the turbo is going out will that make oil spit on maf?

 

[spoolie]

also....check engine flashes rapidly.

 

[spoolie]

try it now...

 

[ES1]

It is throwing a code.
Get someone to scan it and find the code & fix.
I would guess the MAF is bad.

 

[DailyDrifter]

I'm not sure if the check engine light on a GN means its misfireing? I know if the light flashes on newer OBD2 cars it is misfireing.

Anyways I would check the alternator, my car had the same symphoms(sp?) and turned out to be a bad alt that was bought the day earlier from autozone

 

[T-top87GN]

Find out what the code is and we will start there.

Malfunction Codes Reference

 

[pwrsix]

I had a similar problem. Test drove the car and it ran great. Negotiated the deal over the phone for a week. Went to pick up the car and drive it home. About half way (20 min), the car choked and sputtered. It wouldnt "go" on the highway. I limped the car home. The guy I bought it from told me to check all of the intercooler hoses. He said maybe one came off or had a hole in it. I checked them and replaced them. Same problem. Sputtering and some black smoke from the tail pipes. I searched this site and found info on the MAF sensor. If it is bad, your car will have the problems you are describing. I replaced mine and the problem was solved. The car ran great again. Last week I brought my car to Russ Merrit and he changed out my MAF sensor to a more up to date one with a translator. He said that this is the only way to go and I beleive him. Get rid of the original style MAF sensor ASAP. I am not positive it will fix your exact problem but it will save you from some problems in the future.

 

[1986TR]

invest in a scanmaster it will be money well spent :biggrin: or some sort of scan tool

 

[spoolie]

I've already ordered the walbro and wire kit...next is the scanmaster...im at work now...when I get home im jumping the codes...and I've got oil in the inlet charge pipe...before the snail??

 

[corsair231]

I've already ordered the walbro and wire kit...next is the scanmaster...im at work now...when I get home im jumping the codes...and I've got oil in the inlet charge pipe...before the snail??

Not unusual and normal if you still have the vent running from the passenger side v/c to the inlet bell. Jump the codes out and let us know what you find. Also, you said the seller changed the maf out. Where did it come from? Aftermarket remans are notorious for being wrong for these cars.

 

[TurboDave]

also....check engine flashes rapidly.

That usually indicates a flaky chip connection in the ECM. With the key off, you can pull the chip out its socket, and plug it back in. This is usually enough to scrape some of the corrosion from the pins. Sometimes takes unplugging and replugging a couple times. Remember, don't have the key on when removing/replacing the main chip. I'ts the larger of the two socketed chips.

 

[TurboV]

Definetly check the chips connection and for any prong damage. Does sound like MAF sensor. While the car is idling, tap on the MAF with the handle of a screwdriver or something. If the car stumbles, you found your problem. I swear these thing always seem to crap out right when you buy the car. A scan tool is a MUST, plus as mentioned before, get those malfunction codes, the car will tell you whats going on. Good luck, keep posting.

 

[spoolie]

ok here it is....pulled the codes...just one (51) ecu. so i pull the ecu and unplug it...full of water? pulled it apart, cleaned with circuit cleaner, and put together. now it will start and idle up then die...idle up and die...if you give it throttle it falls on its face and dies. and to top it off the compressor wheel is chewed up.

so i need help, if there is anyone in the TN area that has a ecu and spare snail post up or call me

jon 6153377040 this weekend or today.

 

[spoolie]

ok...im uploading a video now...new ecu. same chips. now it idles up and down and when throttle is opened...it falls on its face. and its throwing a 31 code now...prndl switch?

 

[spoolie]

 

[Fast4Ward]

too bad you don't have a scanmaster. unplug the orange wire to clear the codes, wait at least a minute, plug it back in and restart it and let it relearn. IAC could be stuck too.
check the chip but make sure to unplug the orange wire first to disconnect power to the computer.
obd1 is not gonna tell you anything about misfiring.

 

[spoolie]

ive got a new turbo coming tuesday. ive got a stock chip coming mon or tues also. anything else i could try, im not into throwing parts at it without a reason.

 

[spoolie]

hopefully my chip and turbo come in today....the turbo r&r shouldnt be difficult, correct? looks like a few bolts and oil lines...

 

[johnnyttype]

hopefully my chip and turbo come in today....the turbo r&r shouldnt be difficult, correct? looks like a few bolts and oil lines...

turbos are straight forward installs... is the chip that you r getting made for your combo/ injector size? the 38 on the back of the chip could be injector size the chip is burnt for so a stock chip would not work very well being they are made for 28lb injectors.