Brake advice, what direction to go for a somewhat experienced noob.

KC87

Well-Known Member
Initially the braided lines did not have DOT approval.

I want to say there was something to do with heat. Was going to buy them but like always have to do tons of reading before and the argument against them was solid.
 

~JM~

Wrinkled Member
That's a bit of technicality. DOT required a certain crimped end that isn't possible with a stainless braided line. That's why they weren't DOT approved.

That isn't an excuse to buy cheap lines. But when you start modifying cars, you have to understand why things are the way they are and adjust accordingly.

That sounds about right. Couldn't recall the reasoning. I use the braided lines on almost everything.
 

Rosey1968

Active Member
2blacklines.... no cutting involved with the CPP upgraded... the spindles are stock height by the way.... it is all plug and play and mostly all genuine GM parts ;)... I did use the braided lines that came with the kit :eek:
 
2blacklines.... no cutting involved with the CPP upgraded... the spindles are stock height by the way.... it is all plug and play and mostly all genuine GM parts ;)... I did use the braided lines that came with the kit :eek:
Hey Rosey, thanks. I went to the website to locate the kit and have a look. Maybe i'm looking in the wrong location but i found a lot of Wilwood stuff. I'll keep looking for that kit. It sounds interesting for when i get larger wheels. Thanks a lot
 

Chuck Leeper

8/10's of a century!
Staff member
That's a bit of technicality. DOT required a certain crimped end that isn't possible with a stainless braided line. That's why they weren't DOT approved.
This is why we use only the Fragola DOT approved lines.
We found out that some suppliers had no clue about the DOT cert.
We have a hose machine, but won't make brake components.
We get customers that drag their own parts in, for the build.
They get their hoses back, and we order the DOT parts.
May only be a "CYA" move, but .....
 

Rosey1968

Active Member
Hey Rosey, thanks. I went to the website to locate the kit and have a look. Maybe i'm looking in the wrong location but i found a lot of Wilwood stuff. I'll keep looking for that kit. It sounds interesting for when i get larger wheels. Thanks a lot

Thier site is not the greatest... and this may not even be on thier site... but you can call them , they were very helpful. The part number is 7887swbk-s.. C5 spindle (stock height) brake kit. $649 for everything, spindles, calipers, rotors, lines... it was like $749 with tax/shipping.

I had the spindles powers coated for $50...

It took me 10 times longer to get my old spindles off as it did to reassemble everything... you do need 18" whells to fit these though...
IMG_2085.jpg
IMG_2093.jpg
IMG_2107.jpg
 
That is brilliant. I can't believe it just fits right in with no cutting or custom fabrication and all the parts come included. I definitely wouldn't be installing them myself. I don't have to worry about explaining to cut a spindle. And, the vacuum booster master cylinder upgrade will power those beasts?
 

Rosey1968

Active Member
I have a hydroboost system... a good vacuum system will work just fine.

the kit also comes with the correct C5 hubs for out wheels... I forgot to mention that.
 

Reapersgbodys

Active Member
My "PowerPuker" gave out 150 miles into a 400 mile trip, needless to say I have experienced the Deathmaster problem, and no warning, no previous issues, it just went. Bought a Vacuum setup and never looked back, haven't had 1 issue, and car stops when I want it to.
Ear Brown also has a nice vacuum kit, that I believe is a few dollars less than Kirbans, either way can't go wrong taking the Powermaster off and putting it on the shelf. Vacuum brakes have been around how long??? There is a reason why you don't see that monstrosity that WILL fail at any given time on more GM cars from this era.
 
My "PowerPuker" gave out 150 miles into a 400 mile trip, needless to say I have experienced the Deathmaster problem, and no warning, no previous issues, it just went. Bought a Vacuum setup and never looked back, haven't had 1 issue, and car stops when I want it to.
Ear Brown also has a nice vacuum kit, that I believe is a few dollars less than Kirbans, either way can't go wrong taking the Powermaster off and putting it on the shelf. Vacuum brakes have been around how long??? There is a reason why you don't see that monstrosity that WILL fail at any given time on more GM cars from this era.
Yup, i'm doing the conversion for sure. I can't believe how bad this system is. I wouldn't be able to sleep knowing that my wife will drive this car with a shitty brake system. OMG, the horror stories i've read and heard. I never knew of this problem when i had my last GN. I appreciate the advice and support from everyone.
 

Turbo6inKY

Short Guy
This is why we use only the Fragola DOT approved lines.
We found out that some suppliers had no clue about the DOT cert.
We have a hose machine, but won't make brake components.
We get customers that drag their own parts in, for the build.
They get their hoses back, and we order the DOT parts.
May only be a "CYA" move, but .....

I'm with you. If I ran a shop, I'd never use a non-DOT line on a customer car.
 
Mine failed on my new GN back in 1986 !! Thankfully it was under warranty .
You know, when i bought my first in GN in '95 i called a dealer to see if there were any recalls. I remember there was one regarding the brake system. I was to ignorant to know what it was. It was just free service. lol I wonder if it was the vacuum conversion.
 

Turbo6inKY

Short Guy
You know, when i bought my first in GN in '95 i called a dealer to see if there were any recalls. I remember there was one regarding the brake system. I was to ignorant to know what it was. It was just free service. lol I wonder if it was the vacuum conversion.

Recall was on the pressure switch on the top of the PM unit. They'd leak and fail, then the pump wouldn't cycle and boom, no brakes.
 

captndave737

Well-Known Member
2” drop spindles, 2” DSE drop springs rear. 18x8 front 255/40/18. 18x9 rear 285/35/18
Hydro boost for over 20 years. I’ve tried the others and I like to stop. I don’t find them the least bit touchy but smooth and predictable all the time.
EF1CF5D2-314E-4499-B1DA-49244D3200D8.jpeg
 
2” drop spindles, 2” DSE drop springs rear. 18x8 front 255/40/18. 18x9 rear 285/35/18
Hydro boost for over 20 years. I’ve tried the others and I like to stop. I don’t find them the least bit touchy but smooth and predictable all the time. View attachment 352557
I've seen this term that last few days "drop spindles". Am i accurate when i understand that the drop spindle is a spindle that is shorter than stock which would tuck the wheel into the wheel well thus lowering the front end? Why not just use a suspension lowering kit? Do you use the original spring & shock components with drop spindles?

Sorry, i've been out of the scene for so long i just steer through the least path of resistance.
 

Rosey1968

Active Member
captndave737 .. great looking car!!

2blacklines... you can lower with drop spindles or you can do via a new suspension... No right or wrong way to do this... ..depends on your preferences...and your wallets tollerances :)

I lowered mine by installing a Ridetech turn trun Coilover suspension, front and rear...
IMG_2025.jpg
 

captndave737

Well-Known Member
Drop spindles aren’t shorter the spindle is higher between the upper and lower ball joints so the car sits lower. It’s a simple job. Take the rotor and hub off. Detach the tie rod. Separate the spindle from the ball joints and put the new spindle in and re attach everything.
Oh and have the front end aligned.
 
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