Non-lockup valve removeval.....

[Hi-psi]

Guys,

I'm in need of a tranny for the daily driver. I have the chance to buy a good tranny from a buddy, but the tranny is currently setup for a non-lockup style convertor. Now I have heard there are basically two types of non-lockup valves being used commonly out there now, the Art Carr and a Sorsen? Anyways, I was told the Sorsen uses just a snap ring to hold it in so it is easily reversable to put the tranny back to lockup. However I was told the Art Carr style you actually have a hole drilled in the forward drum for a small set screw to hold it in place. I'm I really in the dark here, or is this the just of it?

So hear's my question. What's the easiest way to tell witch style this tranny has? How do I put the tranny back to stock with each type? Id this something I can do or should I have the tranny shop do it? Any pics or diagrams? Anything else I should know?? Thanks for the help.

 

[GTEATER]

My tranny guy said there was no way to reverse the process, had to replace the pump.

 

[Hi-psi]

Originally posted by GTEATER
My tranny guy said there was no way to reverse the process, had to replace the pump.

I talked to Bruce.

He said there was.

 

[NCTTA]

How do you do it? I'd like to get the info to my Tranny guy...got a Yank l/u coming.

Thank

Kevin

 

[WE4]

Here is the skinny .....L/U valve 101

ok this Sorsen thing I have no clue. The two I am familar with is the transgo style and the Art Carr style. Personnally I prefer the Art Carr one but to each his own.
the first I will call transgo works as follows.

First a plug is inserted. then a tiny pin goes in then the top valve held in by stock retainer and snapring. Real simple and totally reversable in car.

Second is the Art Carr one. It is one solid valve. It is pinned in with a set screw . You disassemble pump and tap one hole. Insert set screw and snap ring and reassemble pump and go.
Now if Art's valve is to be replaced, meaning return to lock up, you back out set screw and drill hole in it. #35 or so drill bit would work fine. I like this set up cause valve is secure and doesnt move around. It is a more involved way but superior I believe, but, what do I know ?
LOLOLOL

Whichever floats your boat and for the novice the Transgo one is prolly the better bet. I installed one today as a matter of fact. The
Transtar part # for the Transgo one is K61908V.

as for which one you have? remove snap ring and if it falls out you have the Transgo one. If not and it appears real solid, Arts is prolly in there. Either way BOTH ARE reversable.
There you go.

Bruce
WE4
www.PTSnctb.com

 

[NCTTA]

Thanks...that helps Bruce.

Are you familar with how the 9x11 compairs and contrast with the Yank PE3400E? Or any of the Yank l/us?

 

[WE4]

yes...

Well since the 9x11 is mine I have a pretty good idea how they stack up. And Mike at Yank is a good friend of mine so I am pretty familar with his too. But what exactly is your question?
If you have a 600 or less hp car , the 9x11 would work great for you. If you are making 600 and above I might look to the Yank in an all out race application. For the dollar the 9x11 is very hard to beat.

Bruce
WE4
www.PTSnctb.com

 

[NCTTA]

I guess I'd like to know what makes the difference in the hp the engine has? What is the advantage or disavantage/ pro or con..of the traditional manuel l/u vs the torque applied l/u that Yank advertises? Not sure if torque applied is the proper was of stating it but I hope you know what I'm trying to say.

Thanks

 

[WE4]

Ok the converter Mike is building with the torque applied lock up is fairly new and I havent played with one yet. Mike asked me awhile back but just havent had the time. The 9x11 however uses a conventional cluthch set up modified by our techs to withstand 90% of all the TRs in different build combinations.It will take a beating and keep on ticking. Also, the dollar plays a part here too. Like I said before, for the dollar and street manners, the 9x11 is tough to beat.

Bruce
We4
www.PTSnctb.com

 

[NCTTA]

Thanks for the input