No Power at the top of each gear

[gaveMEaGN]

I'm a the excited new owner of a stock 87 GN with the exception of a 160 degree thermostat. I have done all of the Spring Cleaning listed on the Turbo Regal Website. My problem is that when I am WOT at the top of each gear the engine stops pulling. As soon as it changes to the next gear it pulls like crazy. It has all kinds of power at the lower rpms, can't hardly keep the tires from spinning. Any help would be greatly appreciated. By the way I have turbolink and all the numbers seem to be normal.

 

[Sleeper-6]

Ahh, A smart newbie. You're off to a good start by using a scan tool. It makes life so much easier. Is the engine all stock still? What kind of mileage is on it? I'm willing to go out on a limb and say that the valve springs are getting tired. After 15 years and however many miles, the stockers are usually pretty much shot. They lost their ability to properly controll the valves in the higher RPM's, resulting in the loss of power you're seeing. After the car shifts the RPM's drop down to a point where the weak springs can regain their control and the power returns. Good Luck.

 

[dgreene]

Been there, done that.

You need valve springs my friend.

 

[gaveMEaGN]

Thanks. Got a recommendation for replacement valve springs. By the way the car has 65,000 on it and has never been touched. What are the possibilities of the stock fuel pump being on its last leg? Thanks for the replies.

 

[BlackBeauty]

I think I may have this problem too... I have good power in first, but if I'm driving at, say, above 45mph, then floor it, when it downshifts it doesn't seem to get me going anywhere very fast. What else can you do to check the valve springs? Anything easy?

 

[Sleeper-6]

It's prob still healthy, BUT it's borderline for stock applications. I would highly recomend an aftermarket pump and hotwire kit from one of the venders before you really make any performance mods. There's no point in flowing more air if you can't fuel it.

As for checking valve springs, I know there are tools available for checking the spring tension while they are still on the car. both Summit and Jegs have them. Also, check locally and see if anyone has one they would be willing to lend/rent you since you will prob only need it once.

 

[dgreene]

gavemeagn, I would use the Comp. Cams 980 springs without the factory cups. Yes, your fuel pump was only marginal when new, so it would be wise to replace it and get a hot wire kit for it as well.

Black Beauty, there is only one way I know of to test them, and that is to take them off and use a "valve spring tester" to see what there tension is......since you are already that far, if the car has never had them or has 50k or so, I would just go ahead and do them.

 

[REDS HOT AIR]

if they are stock no need to test them they were too weak from the factory

 

[striker_29]

Yeah I think you guys a right on track. And on the fuel system, yes it was barely adequate from the factory. Thats probably the first mods you should do, even before a k&n lol! Walbro 340 or better, hotwire kit, adj fuel pressure regulator. Then a good chip and a k&n

 

[gaveMEaGN]

Thanks everybody. This place is great. Maybe somewhere down the road I will be able to return the favors by helping another new Turbo Buick owner.

 

[dgreene]

Agent Smith, I mean striker_29, is right. Before all else, make sure it gets the fuel it needs. Don't settle for anything less than a Walbro 340 and a hotwire kit. The adjustable regulator is a very good idea as well, it gives you some adjustabilty for changing conditions or chips. If you lean out and detonate to much, you will need more than just springs.

The stock chip is really a poor chip for todays gas. I would suggest a new 91-93 octane chip, whatever you have localy, while you are doing all this. Respected chip makers can be found in the Computer Chips 101 section. I would recommend one, but that usually starts a big pissing match.

Good luck on your new found prize!

By the way, most FNG's (f*cking new guys....j/k) don't start out with a scan tool......good call! or maybe you're not a new guy, just have a new play toy.....either way, it's a good thing to have.

 

[ttypewe4jim]

yea i would say work on the fuel.........ps good job on the scan tool know make sure that you watch that knock

 

[BlackBeauty]

Originally posted by REDS HOT AIR
if they are stock no need to test them they were too weak from the factory

I know, but I bought the car a little over a year ago, and not sure about what the previous owner did. He "said" it was rebuilt a couple years ago.

 

[UNGN]

Originally posted by gaveMEaGN
What are the possibilities of the stock fuel pump being on its last leg? Thanks for the replies.

Very high if its the orignal. If the car is trying to shut off at the top of second or third or ever bucks under boost, look at the fuel pump first.

Make sure the TV cable is adjusted properly, too. And check to see if the trans is a BRF code.

Putting a monte 200-4R in a TR will make it shift too high, so it will run out of power 400 RPMs before the shift.

A scan tool is a must for diagnosing these types of problems.

 

[Tims87T]

I also had the same problem. Replaced valve springs with some 90lbers, that was a great help. Now, I am starting to starve for fuel @ high RPM, time for fuel system upgrades!!!