No fluid flow

[MNcarbturbo]

Bought a BY code 200 4R that I was told good. It didnt have a converter so I bought a used D5. I put it in the car and it isnt pulling any fluid. I had the pan off and changed the filter so it was pretty much empty. Fluid and filter were nice and clean. I put maybe 4-5 quarts in and the trans is full. Started the car and it doesnt move. There is no fluid flow out of the trans cooler lines and the fluid level hasnt gone down any. Converter is clearly seated since I pulled the converter bolts out and turned it, can hear a bit of sloshing in the converter and it goes all the way back. Ive read it should take 5 quarts or something, but my converter and cooler lines were sorta dry so it should take 7-8 im guessing.

Im assuming something is wrong in the pump. What breaks/happens so that there is no pump flow?

 

[TexasT]

hard to tell on used stuff. When you changed the filter did you get the old o-ring out before you put the new filter in? I would drop the pan again and check. If you are using the new filter with the orange sealing ring, ditch that and use two o-rings that fit on the filter to seal it. Did you put a quart of trans fluid into the converter before you put it on the trans?

If that doesn't work. Id recommend dropping the trans and pulling the pump to see what is going on in there. Get some hard rings to replace the originals when it goes back together.

Let us know how you do.

 

[Pronto]

Bought a BY code 200 4R that I was told good.

Ya, maybe not...

 

[MeanBuicks]

The pump rotor may be broken. When you pull the trans back out, look into the pump where the converter engages to see if the square pump drive lugs are there and in place.

 

[MNcarbturbo]

Pump tangs are shot. Whoever had it before never seated the converter and killed the pump. I never checked it. It answers the question to why it was $60 and had no converter with it. So now comes learning how to change the pump in 3 days....

 

[TexasT]

pull the pan, pull the tcc solenoid, remove the bolts and pry the pump out.

keep track of the thrust washer that goes on the back of the stator support. new rotor, rotor guide, vanes, hard rings, new spring, new gasket, o-ring and front seal and maybe a new slide and housing if it is real chewed up.

While it is out you might want to go to bigger boost valves and drill the fluid return behind the seal to 1/4" to aid drain back. If it doesn't have a hardened stator support now might be a good time to put one in while it's apart.

 

[MNcarbturbo]

Yep. Carcraft is Friday so its gotta be back together by Thrursday, who has quick parts service?

 

[TexasT]

O

Yep. Carcraft is Friday so its gotta be back together by Thrursday, who has quick parts service?

Do you live near a metropolitan area? There may be a dacco, transstar , wit, or some other trans part distributor. Google up on yp.com or something that looks up your local businesses.

Is the housing ok or is the pocket all scored up? Does it catch a finger nail when you run it across. A rebuilt pump might be a better option if this is the case.

A call to one of our sponsors might get parts in a hurry.

Or

Are you close to st Paul?
Dacco Transmission Parts at
817 Vandalia St, Saint Paul, MN 55114.

Whatever It Takes Transmission 3765 Dunlap St N, St Paul, MN

Or Minneapolis?

Transtar Industries, Inc. 3900 Jackson St NE #150, Minneapolis, MN

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app

 

[MNcarbturbo]

So I put a new pump in and the car moves, but the line pressure is low and its stupid on shifting. I only have 55PSI at no TV pull and 150 at full TV pull. It also doesnt have that instant pressure rise as soon as the TV cable is moved a bit that I should. Kinda lazy until 40% and then slowly rises to 150. It has little pressure rise in reverse, maybe 75.

1st gear is good, 2nd is good, wont shift into 3rd consistently and hasnt been into 4th. The only way it got into 3rd is get it past 3500 and sometimes will bite. It jumps out really quick though.

 

[MeanBuicks]

Did you buy a complete pump assembly and drop it right in or did you transfer your pressure regulator spring and boost valves? If you don't know what spring and valves you have in the new pump, you should swap them with the turbo Buick calibrated parts. This can be done by just removing the trans pan.

 

[MNcarbturbo]

Yeah, I bought a complete assembly with the front and rear pump halves already assembled. Might have to take it out again and check it. Im getting a ckperformance book so im probably just going to rebuild the entire thing since it was not what I thought I bought.