No boost...The title says it all

With the air rushing in there it must be enough force to bind it up the last thing that you want is to twist a shaft off or have a blade hit and send metal through your oiling system and trash your bearing in your crank

Sounds bad...lol.
But I'm not seeing anything of that sort that would lend me to believe that was a probability.
I'd have to tear a unit apart - but it seems to me that if a blade shot off - it is either on the turbine side and is going in the exhaust passage or on the compressor side and is going to the air inlet (to IC).
None of which would be good - but ...anyway...
 
no I meant when your driving down the road the fresh air throw your air filter

I'm supposed to run an air filter?
Shoot - that's my problem!
LOL
 

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what air rushing?
The boost tester air?
Perhaps.
But it was "stuck" like that before I ran my boost tests.

I set my air regulator to 25 psi.
Now I grant you - the inlet bell and turbine never see 25 psi of pressure.
But not seeing how it does any damage.
although - I've been wrong before.

I meant the air rushing into the inducer wheel(while your driving) forcing it back into the thrust bearing causing it to bind
 
I meant the air rushing into the inducer wheel(while your driving) forcing it back into the thrust bearing causing it to bind

Maybe.
Just could be.
I wish I had a spec on the end play - but it is very minimal - to the touch.
I can measure it tomorrow.
Kind of.
I'd have to yank the downpipe in order to be able to properly thrust on the opposite side and get a measurement.

At that point - I probably yank the whole unit off and slap the stock turbo back on for a test.

Which is probably where I'm headed next.
Was just trying to avoid it.
I hate doing blind parts swaps - like a shade tree doofus - so I was hoping there was some way I could properly test the turbo - installed.
 
Sounds bad...lol.
But I'm not seeing anything of that sort that would lend me to believe that was a probability.
I'd have to tear a unit apart - but it seems to me that if a blade shot off - it is either on the turbine side and is going in the exhaust passage or on the compressor side and is going to the air inlet (to IC).
None of which would be good - but ...anyway...

I've had 3 of these cars over the last 20 years I've had my share of turbo problems then the thrust bearing starts to get chewed up it sends that brass threw the center cartage and rite into the oiling system and the in and out play becomes greater causing the blades to hit the housing also sending debris into the center cartage and into the oil I've had that happen and also had a shaft twist so it can happen
 
I've had 3 of these cars over the last 20 years I've had my share of turbo problems then the thrust bearing starts to get chewed up it sends that brass threw the center cartage and rite into the oiling system and the in and out play becomes greater causing the blades to hit the housing also sending debris into the center cartage and into the oil I've had that happen and also had a shaft twist so it can happen

Suppose I should drop my pan and yank my filter; cut it open and take a look see just for the hell of it.
Not that it would show anything, but I had the turbo oil return off and looked down it's throat - looked reasonably clean.
But its so massive, a VW could slide down there.

It would be cool if there was a screen-like sock in it's throat where you could inspect - post turbo.

But still trying to figure out.
Turbo bad? Not bad? My next move.
 
I don't think you need to go to all that trouble you'll know the next time you change your oil, the bottom of your oil change pan will look like you have been panning for gold.I don't think its any where close to that extreme yet but i would be taking a hard look at the the turbo so it don't happen.
 
If you have a stock working turbo, throw it in and eliminate the 49.

Can you push on the compressor shaft and spin the turbine, pull the shaft and spin, push to left spin, right spin. Cover all axis.

This is strangely one of the oddest issues I have read about in a long time. You have been very thorough in diagnosis and have explained everything very well. Now you have me scratching my head.

I would pull it. Slap the old one on and see what happens. I'm pulling for you man!

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
 
If you have a stock working turbo, throw it in and eliminate the 49.

Can you push on the compressor shaft and spin the turbine, pull the shaft and spin, push to left spin, right spin. Cover all axis.

This is strangely one of the oddest issues I have read about in a long time. You have been very thorough in diagnosis and have explained everything very well. Now you have me scratching my head.

I would pull it. Slap the old one on and see what happens. I'm pulling for you man!

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app

Thanks man.

I needed some kind and soothing words.
Appreciated.

Good ideas -all.
Remember - as the thing sits right at this moment - I can almost guarantee that if I pulled the downpipe - and stuck my blow gun nozzle in there - Would bet real money that it would not spin - until I stuck my finger in there and free'd it up.

And the only reason I haven't swapped the turbo's - is it is one of the few things that I don't have a known good spare.
Judge by the picture my reluctance to put that POS on my engine.
But - on the bright side - for all its warts - the turbine spins freely!
More than my shiny one can say!

And before anyone says anything - hell no - that turbo oil drain line is not one of my creations.
It was on a WH1 parts car I bought from a couple of yayhoos.
I don't even like looking at it - other than if I need a good laugh.
 

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Last weekend - this is how I tested the turbine
But it's so unscientific - it really doesn't tell you much.
Other than - at 35 PSI - at a certain angle of the blow nozzle - the turbine spins.

How did I come up with 35 PSI?
I had no idea of the exhaust velocity (or pressure if you will) - and it would not spin when I had the regulator set at 25 PSI - so I bumped it up until it did spin.
As I said - very unscientific.
 

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If you have a stock working turbo, throw it in and eliminate the 49.

Can you push on the compressor shaft and spin the turbine, pull the shaft and spin, push to left spin, right spin. Cover all axis.

This is strangely one of the oddest issues I have read about in a long time. You have been very thorough in diagnosis and have explained everything very well. Now you have me scratching my head.

I would pull it. Slap the old one on and see what happens. I'm pulling for you man!

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app

Some people want me to yank the downpipe loose from the cat - and I'm more than willing to go there.
But I'm not seeing any spin.
If I saw some or slow spool, I'd be willing to lean in that direction.

I have a cutout / test pipe all set for that day - but - another day.
But maybe I will in the AM just for grins.
What the hell.
 
Just so you know - we aren't talking about some POS hacked up beater here either.
This is my favorite child.
But she's sick.
And now I'm sick!
 

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Take the cat off and drive it. With all the fart cans driving around you won't be noticed....until you put your foot in it :).

I've used a lot less than 35 psi to spin a big ass holset from a Detroit without issue and that turbo was 25 years older than yours. You are on the right track. You WILL get this figured out.

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
 
Take the cat off and drive it. With all the fart cans driving around you won't be noticed....until you put your foot in it :).

I've used a lot less than 35 psi to spin a big ass holset from a Detroit without issue and that turbo was 25 years older than yours. You are on the right track. You WILL get this figured out.

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app

True enough.
I know what it isn't at this point -that's for sure!
I've fixed most or all of them.
Except for these 2 last little naggers.

But they aren't hissers under my boost tester - just bubblers.
Don't like it any less though.
 

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