new pm pump takes too long to cycle

dave34

Member
Joined
Jul 23, 2009
bought a new pm pump /motor assembly from oldbuickparts . i already had new pressure sw and acc laying around. i installed it and noticed motor would not shut off so i found out that u have to disconnect line under acc ball to gravity bleed so i did and found an o ringed valve was in there to and dont know if it will bleed with that thing in there or do u take out . anyway , tightened nut assembly back up and pump did finally shut off. drove about 100 miles and brakes were great but light started to come on and pulled cover and fluid was really high. but brakes continued to be great all the way home. but i know somethings not right and now motor wants to run over 30 secs. before it stops and then every 15 secs it recycles and does the same thing . you can see passenger side level drop and come back up constantly, but im assuming some kind of additional bleeding is necessary. i dont think i have any bad parts . do i have to bleed the grey master cyl. itself .Do i disconnect the 3 lines on driver side and gravity bleed , if so for how long and do i have to rebleed at the wheels after i do this. i read over gnttype.org tech articles. i just need a little more guidance in laymans terms . i hope someone has recently done this and can remember the details. i absolutley want to keep my pm . i just laid out lots of $ and going to OC cruise in 2 weeks. just want to get it fixed right.
 
i just went out and tryed depressurizing with 15 brake applies w/ ign off and turned pump on . it ran for 30 secs and shut off pass side level droped . 15 secs later it cycled again for 15-20 secs , then stopped , 15 secs passed ran again for 15 secs . all this without touching anything . i dont want to burn it up so after about 4 times i turned it off. level goes up and down so that has to be good but i guess the new pump just isnt primed right. i just dont know the next step or steps .thanks in advance i hope this is clear enough
 
drove up the street and back . brakes felt good . pulled cover and level was a little high and then i turned ign on to run pump to see if run time had changed , now pump runs all the time . after 45 secs i stopped it . i guess im grounded until i get some help. this new pump will burn up soon so im not going to run it ,hopefully someone can chime in.
 
well i did manual bleeding of master cyl itself disconnecting all the ports and gravity bleed and then purged with no power assist . new pump still runs too long . i heard there is some kind of check valve in port under acc ball . i know that it fell out and i put it back in but wasn't positive of orientation. and does it have a spring ,maybe the spring got lost and this is why my new pump is not cycling right or i have it in wrong. man if anyone has a picture of this check valve i would love to see it . also will the local napa have it.
 
Hi Otto,

Does the check valve just pull out or is it threaded in . I'm Confused about that.
 
thanks for the replys guys. I actually ordered a rebuilt entire pm from gbodyparts.com even though i had a new acc ball , pump already. at least now i can start fresh and i have backups now. gbody also sells a book for 20 bucks. i plan on keeping the stock style pm . maybe ill become a master at it for the next time it goes up. as far as the check valve, i thought it was in the port under acc ball closest to firewall where the tube and nut assembly connects. (drywall screw works great to remove on car)when i was trying to purge mine fell out , but i only saw one peice, a metal valve with a flare on one end and 2 o rings on the other with space in between the o rings . theres was no spring that i saw and i looked everywhere in the shop on the floor. this is the question i had before about was this check valve suppose to be more than 1 peice if so maybe that was my only problem and more importantly is this the correct area for the check valve, maybe i have the wrong location. i just got to get my car running so i couldnt wait any longer.
 
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