New Motor installed and no start but cranks all day long...

J

Jamesbay

New Member
Joined
Oct 3, 2016
I had my motor done by anderson performance. We went with a low 10 second combo complete with champion heads and bla bla. I just got the motor completely together and attempted to start it. It just cranks and cranks. Here are some details and parts list..

i replaced the dash, could I have left something there undone? Everything seems to operate as it should....

There is s new fuel tank and pump with a used Hotwire kit...

The ecm was bought used on here from a known member...

I have a turbo tweak chip...

My injectors are brand new and just pulled out of the box... 60lb precision....

The crank sensor was done by Anderson but the cam sensor was done by me... I have reservations about that... the window in the sensor didn't seem to match what was suggested but I called Anderson and was told it didn't matter as long as I was the right degree passed tdc.... sensor is a NOS...

New plugs, used msd wires, verified wiring inside ignition control module..

Have fuel at the rail and hear pump come on...

Verified all sensors are hooked up except coolant temp... have an aftermarket sensor installed....

new redtop battery....

ecm power at battery...

I'm not dumb enough to think that I was just going to slap this motor in and drive away so I am not freaking out lol. Just looking for other ideas here. Thanks all!!!
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Go to vortexbuicks.com and follow the no start tree


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This might lead you in the right direction. It's Caspers electronic CCCI diagnostic tool and it's on sale. This might diagnosis your problem.

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Did you check for spark? If so spray some starting fluid in the in throttle body. If it runs for a few seconds and dies you have a fuel issue.
 
Jamesbay said:
was told it didn't matter as long as I was the right degree passed tdc.... sensor is a NOS...
Click to expand...

Huh???
Check for spark: Make sure the floor is wet, grab a plug wire, have the wife crank the engine. You'll know. J/K!
A noid lite in a inj plug will tell you if the injs are firing. Cheap at the auto parts store.
All grnds on and tite?
All fuses good?
 
You kinda pause on the Crank sensor an Cam Sensor, You did mention the Crank Sensor {NOS / OEM } .did that Crank sensor,
come with the upgrade bracket, If that Crank sensor is off any degrees it will not start ??
 
Take an old or go and get a new plug pull the boot off #1 cylinder connect the wire coming from the coil to the test plug I usually have a long enough wire where when ur in the car u can see the electrode arc when u turn the motor over. You can sit in on a shop towel, drape it over the fender where you can see it standing by the driver door as you reach through the window to turn key. Good luck, keep us posted. It's always good to post the solutions, it helps the next guy.
 
When you do get it started, which it sounds like your cam sensor is way out, put back in the coolant temp sensor or you're going to have a check engine light and run pig rich. Find something else to put the temp sensor in.
 
There can be a lot of reasons for no guel or no spark, but luckily not infinite.
If the engine has been cranked "all day" and you didn't experience a backfire through the exhaust, you are more than likely not getting fuel in the engine. Check fuses and make sure the injectors are seeing close to battery voltage on one of the pins.

Also verify the crank sensor is installed through the correct slot.
 
Jamesbay said:
Uh oh, they are??


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Click to expand...

The way the lines are now, you are feeding boost to both sides of the wg diaphragm. It wont work that way.

Run the boost line direct to the side port and leave the top port open. That will give lowest achievable boost for now. Once you get it running and get a handle on the tune you can add a boost control and re configure.

Where are you with getting it running? Are you getting a ce light? Is the fuel pump priming?

Rick
 
Jamesbay,

Post up a zip code perhaps someone on here is close to you and can help you out. You need to take a step back and cover the basics, as mentioned above go to vortexbuicks.com and read the no start section. You will need a few basic tools, noid light to see if injectors are seeing a pulse, extra spark plug, fuel pressure gauge and volt meter to set your cam sensor. Also make sure you have oil pressure before you start the engine for the first time.

Chuck
 
TurboBuRick said:
The way the lines are now, you are feeding boost to both sides of the wg diaphragm. It wont work that way.

Run the boost line direct to the side port and leave the top port open. That will give lowest achievable boost for now. Once you get it running and get a handle on the tune you can add a boost control and re configure.

Where are you with getting it running? Are you getting a ce light? Is the fuel pump priming?

Rick
Click to expand...

I can hear the fuel pump and know I had fuel at the rail because there was a leak. I pulled the cam sensor and reset it as per procedure. My battery is a bit low now but I went ahead and tried to see if there was spark on the #1 plug. I cranked it and did not see any spark but it was a very slow crank with the weak battery. As per previous question I did prime the oil pump as well.


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