New headers install becoming a PITA

3

3-5.0

Member
Joined
Dec 26, 2011
Just got a new set of GN1 SE headers to replace the cracked DS stocker. After much deliberation I settled on these as I didn't want to keep pulling and repairing the stock one. Anyway, the headers look somewhat ok, after they get up here they're pretty much $800 bucks, so I use the term ok loosely.

My problem/question is, the flange on passenger side is warped 1/8th when a ruler is held across it, driver side is warped a bit but not as much, is this standard fare for these type of headers?. I'm a little worried but I figure it would be more important that the port flange mating surface is flat. Also they will not fit because the top of the flange hits the valve covers -so I guess grinding is in order. I had to loosen the Turbo bracket to get a little wiggle room/mate up -I'm a little worried about that too.

I should also add that the supplied gaskets are a terrible match so I think I will go with Permatex copper.
 
Wing Dang Dong the quality technician at Slant-eyed Tool was off work that day.
To really answer your question...all flanges should be perfectly straight. I was mocking up my TA headers this past weekend and the fit is incredible. Super simple to install. Flanges actually interlock with the crossover pipe.
Contact seller and request another set...their charge on shipping. Their fault for shipping out parts that were not inspected, and an 1/8 warp is def not passing inspection...not in my world.


Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
 
Well so far 50/50. I almost went with the T/A's but they woulda been closer to $1200 or more by my estimation. I highly doubt the seller will eat shipping on this one. That type of exchange never goes well for me, I've been on the car (GN) sidelines for almost a couple years so wasn't up to date on vendors. I'm probably going to have to make these work.

If I had to do it over again (hindsight 20/20) I think I would've gone with a replacement driver, I've seen them for $450 so you can see why I opted for a $650 complete set.
 
I have the same headers. The flanges were initially flat but after a few months mine warped a bit (about 1/16"). I had to get the flanges milled flat at the machine shop. After that I use only high temp RTV smeared around the ports with no gaskets and have had no issues since.

Also I did not have any clearance issues with the valve covers.
 
I think I'm going to bolt them up, I went over just the port areas and bolt holes only with a big aluminum straight bar and stick it sand paper, its amazing how un-flat that area is, not bent just that it wouldn't be air tight ...and how tough that SS is. My reasoning behind this is (I'm assuming and hopefully not incorrectly) it was straight across when welded on the jig and has that heat stress built in so when clamped on the heads and heat cycled they will be fine.
 
You coulda saved yourself $600 and just bought eBay headers. Woulda probably got a similar result and they're made in the same place.
 
3-5.0 said:
Just got a new set of GN1 SE headers to replace the cracked DS stocker. After much deliberation I settled on these as I didn't want to keep pulling and repairing the stock one. Anyway, the headers look somewhat ok, after they get up here they're pretty much $800 bucks, so I use the term ok loosely.

My problem/question is, the flange on passenger side is warped 1/8th when a ruler is held across it, driver side is warped a bit but not as much, is this standard fare for these type of headers?. I'm a little worried but I figure it would be more important that the port flange mating surface is flat. Also they will not fit because the top of the flange hits the valve covers -so I guess grinding is in order. I had to loosen the Turbo bracket to get a little wiggle room/mate up -I'm a little worried about that too.

I should also add that the supplied gaskets are a terrible match so I think I will go with Permatex copper.
Click to expand...
Just call archie ( talk to him ) at gn1
Before u grind on them.
He will correct the problem
He's a good guy
Before all start to bash. !!!!!! Most venders carry and sell his stuff. .
So I think If it was junk they would not sell it under there business. ;)

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
 
I would send them back before you start grinding on them. Get your money back and buy t/a's, youll be glad you did. 800 out the door is way too much money to have to settle for warpage and spend time/money doctoring them up. You said it yourself- youre sick of removing headers to repair leaks etc. I suspect these will be no different after a season or 2. 1/8" out is completely unacceptable, and any vendor who wouldnt refund your money after confirming they are that far from flat doesnt deserve your business.
 
haywire4130 said:
I would send them back before you start grinding on them. Get your money back and buy t/a's, youll be glad you did. 800 out the door is way too much money to have to settle for warpage and spend time/money doctoring them up.
Click to expand...

What He said. :)
 
I have only had stock and ATR headers and both sets were out more than an 1/8" and they both sealed fine for me. My thought is that each port should be flat and free of defects rather than being perfectly flat to each other. The header is flimsy and should conform to the head when torqued down. Don't take my advice for your situation I'm just saying what has worked for me.
 
Thanks guys for all you're replies, I've been a car guy for quite awhile and thought it would be easier to tweak my way out of it rather than contacting the seller and I dunno avoiding a possible who pays for shipping arguement and packing them up and shipping out 'n all that. The reason I went with these headers was not just simply cost as $650 for headers is not cheap by my standards, also it is stated they are made in USA. BTW I went with the seller as he was willing to ship U.S.P.S

Well I guess I should explain what happened so far- just as a story...I ground the top of the flanges and they cleared, then did a test fit and put in all the bolts except the farthest one back that's on the bottom. All the surfaces were cleaned and I carefully put the Permatex on the heads and very carefully manouvered the header into place, installed all the bolts...except the one I didn't test fit aaand you guessed it...it wouldn't go in, I wrestled with that thing trying everything. So I had to take the header out and cursed like a mofo, now I gotta figure out what the hell to do with that.

Oh yeah! forgot to say the drivers side header hits the trans shift link. Good stuff.
 
Well hopefully once youre done reworking them theyll seal up decent. Since youre not using gaskets you have a pretty good chance, with gaskets it would only deform worse when you torque the bolts down. Good luck and keep us informed
 
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