new ebay headers

[Turbo1dr]

Haha, speaking about quality...when I bought my ATR headers (back in 1995 I think) they were the round port type that didn't fit the heads square ports at all. Nothing could be done to port match them until I converted them to square ports myself. I never liked the ATR's because they cracked and had a thin flange to the head. I have to keep running them though because even today I feel I don't have my moneys worth out of them. These cheap ones are probably going to do the same thing.

 

[PaCemkr86]

Haha, speaking about quality...when I bought my ATR headers (back in 1995 I think) they were the round port type that didn't fit the heads square ports at all. Nothing could be done to port match them until I converted them to square ports myself. I never liked the ATR's because they cracked and had a thin flange to the head. I have to keep running them though because even today I feel I don't have my moneys worth out of them.

LOLO. i like that post

 

[ahollowtub]

A little early to make this statement isn't it??

Nope.The SS used in the JDM headers is better quality than the factory ss headers.

I repeat,DO NOT JUST BOLT THESE HEADERS RIGHT ON YOUR ENGINE WITHOUT PORTING.If you do,metal will go thru your engine.

 

[GNVYUS 1]

Mike at FTS, you should buy a bunch of sets, test fit them all and then kick on $100-$150 and sell them as a ready to bolt on set. I bet guys on here would be willing to spend the extra $100-$150 for a proper fitting set over the chance of a misaligned piece and having to spend the $100-$150 on fixing it anyways.

 

[onefastcar]

Just got my set from jdmotors and am pretty impressed, little porting and cleaning of slag and i got an o2 bung commin from Mike at FT. These things for the price can't beat em. I'll take pics when on!

 

[Dewey]

Yeah, what Dr Booster said!!

 

[salvageV6]

If they cost Mike $250 a set delivered to him, then he hires someone to weld, port, and fit the headers and add the O2 bung, figure another $100 cost, he's at $350, which makes them about $500 a set retail plus shipping.

Some companies actually want profit on top of their cost.

Then he has to figure in the fact that they may all fail and crack in 2 years and it will ruin his reputation. :frown:

He probably did the right thing and bought 3 sets to test out, although he doesn't seem very pleased with them anyway.

If they make it 4-5 years, on drivers, they will be just as good as anything else out there crack wise.

 

[Mike Licht]

If they cost Mike $250 a set delivered to him, then he hires someone to weld, port, and fit the headers and add the O2 bung, figure another $100 cost, he's at $350, which makes them about $500 a set retail plus shipping.

Some companies actually want profit on top of their cost.

I highly doubt I could pay a fabricator the going rate plus factor in the other costs and get away close to $100

Then he has to figure in the fact that they may all fail and crack in 2 years and it will ruin his reputation. :frown: :

Lets not go there

He probably did the right thing and bought 3 sets to test out, although he doesn't seem very pleased with them anyway.:

Thats where you are wrong, I think these are awesome and if I could buy them direct where we could get the right deal on 50-100 sets then maybe we could do the first suggestion. Right now I look at them like a "kit" a little cleaning and welding and your there. I like them so much I cancelled any plans we had to make headers, we simply cannot compete. There is for sure a few guys that will pay big money for a US made item but you have TA already so I simply cannot justify the costs of building a big quanity of headers that will not make any more power and have them sit, no matter how nice they are

If they make it 4-5 years, on drivers, they will be just as good as anything else out there crack wise.

They will be the best ever made, if they go 4 to 5 years without a crack on a driver
Mike

 

[VadersV6]

I would definetely pay an extra 50 bucks to just have Mike look them over and make sure everything is right and it'll fit. Anyone else not agree?

 

[Dewey]

Pardon my ignorance but what makes the driver's side so susceptible to cracking when the passenger sides seems to hardly ever have problems?

 

[VadersV6]

Pardon my ignorance but what makes the driver's side so susceptible to cracking when the passenger sides seems to hardly ever have problems?

My personal opinion is that people grossly overtorque the crossover pipe to the header. Ever seen a ball flange on these cars that hasnt been squeezed into an oval shape? The collector flange on the drivers side header is pulled down ALOT, and something has to tweak and give. Thats the first stage. Then the collector bolts on that side tend to come loose over time. It starts to leak. Not enough that you can hear it, but enough to let cool air creep inside after shutdown. Crack crack crack.

 

[SVORay]

Haha, speaking about quality...when I bought my ATR headers (back in 1995 I think) they were the round port type that didn't fit the heads square ports at all. Nothing could be done to port match them until I converted them to square ports myself. I never liked the ATR's because they cracked and had a thin flange to the head. I have to keep running them though because even today I feel I don't have my moneys worth out of them. These cheap ones are probably going to do the same thing.

It's seems the ATR's have a bad gereral rep. They make or use to make a header for the SVO's and people had issues all the time with them cracking back when I had my SVO.

 

[Dewey]

My personal opinion is that people grossly overtorque the crossover pipe to the header. Ever seen a ball flange on these cars that hasnt been squeezed into an oval shape? The collector flange on the drivers side header is pulled down ALOT, and something has to tweak and give. Thats the first stage. Then the collector bolts on that side tend to come loose over time. It starts to leak. Not enough that you can hear it, but enough to let cool air creep inside after shutdown. Crack crack crack.

So if I put some duct tape around my driver's collector to keep the cold air out, my headers won't crack anymore?.....

 

[VadersV6]

So if I put some duct tape around my driver's collector to keep the cold air out, my headers won't crack anymore?.....

No, only Duck tape will work.

 

[Jarnutt]

WOW. step away from this thread for a couple days and you miss ALOT. im at the point now where i just want to spend the money on my Typhoon, thats the same as throwing away $250 isn't it?

 

[pdzz]

OK I just installed my SS auto chrome headers. I spent 3 hours matching the flange openings to my CNC irons. I had to reweld one spot where I went thru. Got them to match perfectly. Then on my first test,fit the pass. side was hitting on a casting boss on the head. Not a big deal, ground boss down clears ok. Soooo now I have both headers bolted to the heads. port matched not hitting anywhere. I test fit both crossover pipes, they line up good not hitting, so off they come. I applied high temp copper plus RTV to the pipes where they go into the headers and the slip joint where the two pipes join up. I set the turbo on, it is not sitting perfectly straight no big deal I think my ATR downpipe will bolt up with some minor adjustments[ tweak here and there]. Bottom line is they fit ok not perfect port work lacks much to be desired but is fixable. I came in tonight just needing to bolt up downpipe and hook up intercooler. I am 6 hours in. Not to bad for the price, but definitely not "bolt on". My two cents. Phil

 

[littlebuick8]

go to verociousmotorsports.com and buy some killer clamps and use the atr crossover gasket southeast turbo sells and you should be good russ merrit did this for me and it worked out nice no leak's. littlebuick8

 

[Turbo1dr]

I just received my JDMMotorz headers today and they had the 02 bung already installed. They appear to welded good around the tubes and flanges with the exception of where the crossover pipe clamps to the header flanges. There, it looks like they just melted the two metals together and didn't add any filler. I'm going to assume this is where the first cracking will start when the stainless starts to flex. The bolt holes appear to be drilled ok and the ports are cleaned up. Yes, you can port them to match your heads because of the thick header flanges.


For $213 to my front door I may get another set!

 

[Quick6'n'-K.C.]

I just received my JDMMotorz headers today and they had the 02 bung already installed. They appear to welded good around the tubes and flanges with the exception of where the crossover pipe clamps to the header flanges. There, it looks like they just melted the two metals together and didn't add any filler. I'm going to assume this is where the first cracking will start when the stainless starts to flex. The bolt holes appear to be drilled ok and the ports are cleaned up. Yes, you can port them to match your heads because of the thick header flanges.


For $213 to my front door I may get another set!

Ummm i got mine today also......








Holy sheit they are nice, er uhhhh man they are horrible DONT buy them!

I definitely am not buying ONE more set of headers from them :tongue:

The only issue i see will be getting on the cold floor this winter and doing the task.

 

[PaCemkr86]

I just received my JDMMotorz headers today and they had the 02 bung already installed. They appear to welded good around the tubes and flanges with the exception of where the crossover pipe clamps to the header flanges. There, it looks like they just melted the two metals together and didn't add any filler. I'm going to assume this is where the first cracking will start when the stainless starts to flex. The bolt holes appear to be drilled ok and the ports are cleaned up. Yes, you can port them to match your heads because of the thick header flanges.


For $213 to my front door I may get another set!

how long till we can see the installed pics?