Need to decimate local cocky 5.0..help me know if my mods are enough

marleyskater420

still needs to learn
Joined
Aug 14, 2004
Friend just got a stroked n poked 5.0 bored to 306. Forged everything, p&p heads, cam, full intake and exhaust. They say its a 13 flat car w/ 350hp.

This is my setup

Bored out stock Throttle body
373 gears
TE45
30lb injectors (50's to be installed)
Hotwired 340FP
AFPR
Duttweiler FMIC
THDP 3" w/ Dump
QBoost controller
PAC alky injection
LT1 valvesprings to be installed.

I am having PTS build my tranny as it blew on me at about 20psi while still tuning. Im having it all billet built and a 2600 D5 put on there (all I can afford)

I still need a chip and the valvesprings i need to install.

Is there anything for cheap I can get thatll give me that extra edge? Or do you think Ill have enough?

I plan on running 20psi w/ the alky and 91 octane.

You think I got enough?

What is the highest boost I can run safely daily on these engines as long as I dont get KR? I mean could I run 23psi as long as I dont see KR? Or would that blow my engine real quick? Could I set it for 23psi and tune it for that but only use it on special occassions and be fine, or will this motor die real quick w/that boost?

Help me please, I need to race him once I get my car back, so that he will shut his mouth about mustangs being the greatest thing ever created.

I personally like his car, but beating him w/ grannys buick would feel sooo nice.
 
EDIT: I also have a scanmaster and a rail mounted FP gauge, if that helps.

Will 50's and alky be enough for 23psi on 91?
 
Yes,maybe even more if you watch your tune.Tune,tune tune is all I can say.The better you tune the more buslengths you will put on him.School him well.
 
FYI with 26 " 275/50 drag radial and 3:73s my car slowed down. Are you running a tall tire?
 
With traction and tuning your car should easily beet a 13 second ride. One major concern I have is that a 2600 stall will not spool a te-45.
 
Exactly, a 2600 D5 will not spool up a TE45 properly, especially a stock headed car. I ran one and the least stall i would run is 3400. I currently run a GT67-37 with a Art Carr 9in 3200 and it spools very well. The converter is actually stalling in the area of 3400-3500 rpm
 
100% correct,no way will it spool,I did'nt notice your turbo before the last response.If they did'nt ship your stuff yet maybe they will change it for ya.If you can't afford it I would put everything on hold until I could.
 
Originally posted by Warp6
FYI with 26 " 275/50 drag radial and 3:73s my car slowed down. Are you running a tall tire?

I am going to run a 275/60 when I get new tires. I dont know if theyll rub on my stock GN wheels or not though.

Will I be ok if I dont have the valvesprings on?

The reason I am going w/ a 2600 stall is that my tranny is blown and PTS is rebuilding it and a locking converter is going to cost me 700-800$ and the rebuild itself is already 2650. I cant afford much more being a senior in HS. Im already going to be borrowing money from my parents to pay it off, so I dont know.

Will my 50's and alky be enough for 23psi daily? I mean as long as Im not constantly at WOT. Will my stock internals be OK? Because If I can run that daily, thatll put my turbo right where it needs to be.

As long as I have traction, do you think ill be fine at 20psi and my stock valvesprings?

Do you think my stock internals can take 23psi daily? I think my fuel system can deliver the fuel, or are 50's to small w/ alky for this turbo? I would think w/ the alky being injected, extra fuel wouldnt be a concern.

LMK, and thanks for the help.
 
Originally posted by marleyskater420
I am going to run a 275/60 when I get new tires. I dont know if theyll rub on my stock GN wheels or not though.

Will I be ok if I dont have the valvesprings on?

*****If they are original valvesprings, the float will artificially limit how fast you will go, and not allow you to take advantage of your new parts potential.

The reason I am going w/ a 2600 stall is that my tranny is blown and PTS is rebuilding it and a locking converter is going to cost me 700-800$ and the rebuild itself is already 2650. I cant afford much more being a senior in HS. Im already going to be borrowing money from my parents to pay it off, so I dont know.

*****No way that convertor will spool such a big turbo, it's just mismatched.


Will my 50's and alky be enough for 23psi daily? I mean as long as Im not constantly at WOT. Will my stock internals be OK? Because If I can run that daily, thatll put my turbo right where it needs to be.

*****No guarantees even if everything is done right. Nobody can tell you over the internet, much less in person whether your stock internals will hold up under that kind of load. It's an old car, old motor, with a new tranny.

**** If you beat on it enough, even with alky, race gas, or whatever, tuning for zero knock, with everything well tuned, etc.. SOMETHING will eventually break. Might be just a check-valve, or you might drive right over the crankshaft.

**** Look through some old posts. There's more than a few people on this site who have broken stuff - it just happens. It's less likely to happen if the car is in great shape, and well tuned, and you don't beat on it. But, the car is close to 20 years old.

***** If this is your only car, and the funds aren't there to fix it, it'll probably just be sitting on your lawn, or in a garage somewhere while you drive something else, or take the bus if you break it. Mom/dad may not be too happy with the money they lent you to fix the cars tranny if you blow the car up racing some guy, especially if it is on the street.

As long as I have traction, do you think ill be fine at 20psi and my stock valvesprings?

****It'll run. It is not ideal. You have the springs, put them on. Traction is always a problem on these cars, but less so on a stock equivalent convertered car with a TE45 turbo.

Do you think my stock internals can take 23psi daily? I think my fuel system can deliver the fuel, or are 50's to small w/ alky for this turbo? I would think w/ the alky being injected, extra fuel wouldnt be a concern.

*****You can make the 50's work, assuming you have other supporting systems like a chip burned to take advantage of your new parts, and at least a Scanmaster and preferably also an EGT, or Directscan to keep you from melting the motor while optimizing tune.


Anyway, no offense is meant by anything I wrote above, just hoping you keep it safe and don't have a bad day in your now fixed car.

Billy
Montgomery Village, MD
 
Originally posted by MaxVO2
Originally posted by marleyskater420
I am going to run a 275/60 when I get new tires. I dont know if theyll rub on my stock GN wheels or not though.

Will I be ok if I dont have the valvesprings on?

*****If they are original valvesprings, the float will artificially limit how fast you will go, and not allow you to take advantage of your new parts potential.

The reason I am going w/ a 2600 stall is that my tranny is blown and PTS is rebuilding it and a locking converter is going to cost me 700-800$ and the rebuild itself is already 2650. I cant afford much more being a senior in HS. Im already going to be borrowing money from my parents to pay it off, so I dont know.

*****No way that convertor will spool such a big turbo, it's just mismatched.


Will my 50's and alky be enough for 23psi daily? I mean as long as Im not constantly at WOT. Will my stock internals be OK? Because If I can run that daily, thatll put my turbo right where it needs to be.

*****No guarantees even if everything is done right. Nobody can tell you over the internet, much less in person whether your stock internals will hold up under that kind of load. It's an old car, old motor, with a new tranny.

**** If you beat on it enough, even with alky, race gas, or whatever, tuning for zero knock, with everything well tuned, etc.. SOMETHING will eventually break. Might be just a check-valve, or you might drive right over the crankshaft.

**** Look through some old posts. There's more than a few people on this site who have broken stuff - it just happens. It's less likely to happen if the car is in great shape, and well tuned, and you don't beat on it. But, the car is close to 20 years old.

***** If this is your only car, and the funds aren't there to fix it, it'll probably just be sitting on your lawn, or in a garage somewhere while you drive something else, or take the bus if you break it. Mom/dad may not be too happy with the money they lent you to fix the cars tranny if you blow the car up racing some guy, especially if it is on the street.

As long as I have traction, do you think ill be fine at 20psi and my stock valvesprings?

****It'll run. It is not ideal. You have the springs, put them on. Traction is always a problem on these cars, but less so on a stock equivalent convertered car with a TE45 turbo.

Do you think my stock internals can take 23psi daily? I think my fuel system can deliver the fuel, or are 50's to small w/ alky for this turbo? I would think w/ the alky being injected, extra fuel wouldnt be a concern.

*****You can make the 50's work, assuming you have other supporting systems like a chip burned to take advantage of your new parts, and at least a Scanmaster and preferably also an EGT, or Directscan to keep you from melting the motor while optimizing tune.


Anyway, no offense is meant by anything I wrote above, just hoping you keep it safe and don't have a bad day in your now fixed car.

Billy
Montgomery Village, MD

Thank you very much for your post. I think I will set the boost to 19 or 20psi to be a LITTLE safer,

I think Im gonna spend the extra money on the 9x11 LU converter *hears cheering in the backround*. If I get that then I think ill do a 3200 stall, and wil that work?

So your basically saying that a motor is gonna break when its old, it may not be 23 psi it may not be 25 psi, it may just break on 15psi...its just gonna break. I think If I do tune for 23psi, Ill make sure to run a lil rich, in case **** happens.

Thanks for the post man ,I appreciate it.
 
Top