need some info on machining the caps for a girdle

[Turbo'dBuick]

Ok, I am machining my main caps for a girdle. I replaced the front & 2 center caps with billet ones. I am machining the caps to be flush with the block for now. After I get them all flush & put the girdle on with the shim I will measure how much more to take off to make the girdle to block clearance on the pan rails to have a .005 clearance. Here is a few pics.

Any suggestions? Or anything I should do different? Please tell me if I am doing it how the you guys are.

 

[Lee Thompson]

On the front cap

Is that a recess for the washer or just a mark. If a recess--I don't think you need it. IMO, if you machine all the billet caps flush with the pan then you would need ,005 shim to get the girdlle where it should be. The back cap will take more shim.

 

[NCTURBOS]

Did you square up the pan rails & fron cover as well??


K.

 

[pacecarta]

for something so important to the build i would think reading the instructions is a step that shouldnt be skipped

click the link
Namesco. A World Apart

 

[pacecarta]

for something so important to the build i would think reading the instructions is a step that shouldnt be skipped

instructions

..

 

[Turbo'dBuick]

Is that a recess for the washer or just a mark. If a recess--I don't think you need it. IMO, if you machine all the billet caps flush with the pan then you would need ,005 shim to get the girdlle where it should be. The back cap will take more shim.

Right now I am .002 above on all the caps. The recess for the washer will be cut off when I make my final cut on each of the caps. The girdle came with 1 shim that is 0.059 thick. I know I want a final the gap to be 0.005 between the block & the girdle. If I am .002 above now & have a 0.059 shim, that puts me @ 0.061. I will have to cut off another 0.056 to have a finished 0.005. Unless I can get shims thinner.

 

[Turbo'dBuick]

for something so important to the build i would think reading the instructions is a step that shouldnt be skipped

Namesco. A World Apart

..

I am one of the guys who bought a CAT girdle. I bought my throttle body, plenum, power plate & front mount from RJC but can't see spending the extra $ on there girdle sense I put the 3 caps on. I will say the finish on the RJC is better & the instructions with the CAT girdle aren't very good at all but a couple of hundred bucks makes a differance to me.

If anyone has directions that would be willing to help that would be great!!!!

 

[Turbo'dBuick]

Did you square up the pan rails & fron cover as well??


K.

going to order a new high volume oil cover & will do it when it comes in...as for the pan rails are really straight & don't really need it. If you guys think it is a must do I can throw it on the decking machine & take a little off.. You think I should?

 

[KWIKR 1]

sounds like you have all the equipment . I'm not a pro engine builder but why not just clean up the pan rail square to the block registers and just cut the caps .005" above the block pan rail ? no shims needed . unless your planning a line hone or bore you may have to knock a few thou off the bottom of the caps to compensate for this .

 

[NCTURBOS]

going to order a new high volume oil cover & will do it when it comes in...as for the pan rails are really straight & don't really need it. If you guys think it is a must do I can throw it on the decking machine & take a little off.. You think I should?

I would bolt the front cover up and see where you're at, but that's just me maybe. If you know the girdle is flat and squared up, I would want the mating surface done as well. That'll make it seal (The Right Stuff) up nicely.


K.

 

[Turbo'dBuick]

sounds like you have all the equipment . I'm not a pro engine builder but why not just clean up the pan rail square to the block registers and just cut the caps .005" above the block pan rail ? no shims needed . unless your planning a line hone or bore you may have to knock a few thou off the bottom of the caps to compensate for this .

I have access to a machine shop I help out @.
I will go ahead & knock off a little off the pan rails to make sure I am perfectly level.
I would just cut them to be .005 & have no shim but I have to still cut some off the cap to get the washer recess out then I would be to low. I will see where I am @ after I cut the caps. I might be able to cut the the rails to do that. Will try today & post some pics.

 

[KWIKR 1]

I have access to a machine shop I help out @.
I will go ahead & knock off a little off the pan rails to make sure I am perfectly level.
I would just cut them to be .005 & have no shim but I have to still cut some off the cap to get the washer recess out then I would be to low. I will see where I am @ after I cut the caps. I might be able to cut the the rails to do that. Will try today & post some pics.

I guess you could cut/clean up the pan rail (it should only need .002 -.003 +- or so to clean it up) . and then use a machinest block "across" the pan rail off each side and measure with a depth guage to the register . that should tell you where you have to be with the caps . worst case you may have to use a .002 or ? shim stock or recut the top of the cap . your also going to have to take in consideration what your main bore dia is in reguards to getting it honed/bored .I also would machine the pan rail with the rear cap installed seeing that it's part of the pan rail ..

 

[Turbo'dBuick]

It took .003 to clean up the pan rail. I cut it with the rear main in & tight. Now I have a nice surface to work with...going to finish cutting the caps after I get a new bit for the lathe. Here are a few pics from today.

I am trying to find a thinner shim...anyone know where I can get one with out having to try & make one?

 

[KWIKR 1]

you could take the shims you already have to a "precision surface grinding shop" and they would be able to knock them down a bit . I took my girdle to a grinding shop be resurfaced . it was not completely flat to my likeing . between the two sides they had to remove about .010" . it's dead flat now .

 

[Lee Thompson]

rear cap

Shouldn't you have welded the 2 spacers on the rear cap before machine work? Aren't the shims stacked so as to be able to peel layers off?

 

[KWIKR 1]

Shouldn't you have welded the 2 spacers on the rear cap before machine work? Aren't the shims stacked so as to be able to peel layers off?

Lee the shims I got with mine are a single type shim . just like the one shown in the pic from turbo'dbuick .

 

[Lee Thompson]

the old saying

Lee the shims I got with mine are a single type shim . just like the one shown in the pic from turbo'dbuick .

You get what you pay for.

 

[NCTURBOS]

It took .003 to clean up the pan rail. I cut it with the rear main in & tight.

Don't forget the front cover as well.


K.

 

[NCTURBOS]

I have access to a machine shop I help out @.

I wish I had access like this around me. Besides liking to do things myself... I'm tired of these "know-it-all I've been building Chevy/Ford motors for years machinists" telling me what my Buick motors need or don't need.

Heck, I have a local machinst now that stands on his own podium(sp?) because he has been in magazines, telling me that both billet main caps and girdles are a waste of time in our '109 motors. "They don't have enough main webbing strength" he says. No matter what I say from there he argues...


K.

 

[MSDGN]

Lee is correct that 2 spacers need to be welded to the rear main cap which should have been done before machining the cap...plus you need to be careful that pass side rear main stud doesn't stick out too far otherwise it will interfere with the pan...shouldn't be more than .125 above the girdle...at a minumum you will need a line hone...