need help with cam!

T

turbokar87

Member
Joined
Oct 12, 2009
i pulled my cam and i found a wiped lobe.
the only numbers on the cam says EP-10.
i looked at edelbrocks site..the only cam they show is for non-computer controlled engines.
what should i install?????
i really would like to build up the top end.
shortblock is built.
 
This is the cam kit that I purchased. This includes lifters and a cam card. A long time forum member who is knowledgeable has recommended this cam. Melling makes this camshaft.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Buick-231-3...Parts_Accessories&hash=item2ea3870d3b&vxp=mtr

Here are the specifications:
Duration @ .050" of lift: 204 intake / 214 exhaust
Lift: .450" intake / .474" exhaust
Lobe centers: 112 intake / 112 exhaust

Intake timing @ 0.006" of lift: Intake opens 23 degrees BTDC, closes 77 degrees ABDC
Exhaust timing @ 0.006" of lift: Exhaust opens 72 degrees BBDC, closes 38 degrees ATDC

You will probably want to pick up some cam assembly lube for the lobes and lifters. Also, you probably have some engine assembly lube for the bearing surfaces sitting around from when you rebuilt the short block. Then find some ZDDP to put in the oil.

What about a timing chain kit?

Paul Lohr
 
turbokar87 said:
i pulled my cam and i found a wiped lobe.
the only numbers on the cam says EP-10.
i looked at edelbrocks site..the only cam they show is for non-computer controlled engines.
what should i install?????
i really would like to build up the top end.
shortblock is built.
Click to expand...

I run the cam you are describing and it works fine in my car pulled a 212/212 out and put this edelbrock in spins up quick goes to 5600 very quick and pulls hard
 
turbokar87 said:
i pulled my cam and i found a wiped lobe.
the only numbers on the cam says EP-10.
i looked at edelbrocks site..the only cam they show is for non-computer controlled engines.
what should i install?????
i really would like to build up the top end.
shortblock is built.
Click to expand...


With a wiped cam, you're going to have to pull it and tear it all the way down to the bare block. Don't forget to toss any oil coolers you've been using.
 
Pull it. Ck it. And go roller.
Or 204-214 flat. Just don't change the springs till after u break it in. #1biggest mistake made. Will wipe it every time

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
 
1fastcobra said:
Pull it. Ck it. And go roller.
Or 204-214 flat. Just don't change the springs till after u break it in. #1biggest mistake made. Will wipe it every time

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
Click to expand...
Mine must be the exception new 980 springs new gm lifters new cam204/214 on rebuilt and break in 10,000 miles later and no wiped cam.Last motor I did had a 212/212 with crane high rev lifters and new 980 springs and never wipe a lobe on it either took it out after 4000 miles .I understand what you are saying about the break in with the weaker spring pressure but saying it will wipe the cam every time. wasn't so in my case.
 
Did u mic the lobs .
When u pulled it out. ??
I did the same. Ran good 15k on a 206-206. Pulled to go roller miked the cam.
#3 exhaust was worn
Looked great to the naked eye



Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
 
I haven't on the 212/212 the 204/214 still in the car going strong I agree 100% on a roller cam set up,But its not everyone that can throw 1.000.00 out there to get one The motor I build this winter will have one.I'd bet you might be surprised how many people still run flat tappet cams.I've done a lot of reading on this subject and there are some horror stories on here about roller set up to.
 
Walt03 said:
What roller cam grind has the intake and exhaust open and closing events comparable to the FT 204/214 Edelbrock cam?
Click to expand...
What are the open/close events?


Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
 
It is my understanding that with a roller, you can have more aggressive ramp speeds which, in theory anyway, would give you faster "open/close" events.

Jay J
 
Actually a flat tappet cam can knock them off the seat faster than a roller (all things being equal that is).
 
Let me start this by saying that Earl has probably built more of these motors than I have. There are a lot of guys reading this who have had luck with the flat tappet cams (as I have) as well as those who have had wiped lobes (been there too)with them. What experience has taught me is that you can use the stock TR cam pretty much without issues because it is such a small cam. When you use more aggressive (higher lift) profiles, coupled with higher spring pressures, the chance for losing a lobe increases.
There finally came a day when "saving money" by using a FT cam just didn't add up when it wiped, took out bearings, etc., causing another rebuild. I have two of these cars to keep running and it just made sense to go roller and be done with it.
Another issue, which I will not go into here, is how oil has been changed by the EPA. You now need ZDDP or other additives to prevent failures. You can research this elsewhere. Good luck with whatever you decide.

Jay J
 
Actually there's more to it than just being small. The stock cam was made back when FT cams were common and still offered by the OEMs in new cars. What that means is the QC has to be good enough to live in a million cars with warranties. Couple that with higher quality lifters that have stellite feet on the bottom of them and you have a MUCH better starting point for longevity. The other thing about staying with a stock cam as it's been worked hardened way back when. The parts are married to each other and happy. Cam failures (outside of instant trauma) generally happen before work harding is done. It's not a linear wear thing. It's more of a 'if it can make it over the 'hump', it's good to go'.

Fast forward to today and you have cam blanks of lower quality, softer footed tappets, crappier oil, and lifter bores of varying tolerance and finish. Then toss some stiff ass springs and/or high ratio rocker arms on there, and it's a recipe for disaster. Any one thing on that list can cause many failures, and lots of 'builders' will expose the engine to that entire list!

It also doesn't help with cam tech guys can say it's the first time they've ever heard of such of thing and your flattened cam is an isolated incident therefore much be installer/user error. That argument won't hold water if they has to say that to GM/Ford/Chrysler for 200,000 failures. Since no manufacturer uses FT cams anymore their 'tech' experts never have to face that battle.
 
I dropped it off at Dave Husek's shop. We're tearing down and refreshing the block. Swapping to a roller and new head's.

Sent from my SM-N900V using TurboBuick Mobile mobile app
 
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