Pronto
Believe nothing you hear and half of what you see.
- Joined
- Dec 9, 2002
Yes, 14.6 max.
Need an alternator. Which one?
- Thread starter TireFryer
- Start date
Creven405
Member
- Joined
- Aug 22, 2021
Which model did you go with? An how do you like it? I’m in the market for one, I ordered a black one a couple years ago that the case was a different size
Phoneguy
Cometic HG stress tester
- Joined
- Aug 27, 2002
Creven405
Member
- Joined
- Aug 22, 2021
Here’s the one I’m looking at now. Would it fit our cars?
Phoneguy
Cometic HG stress tester
- Joined
- Aug 27, 2002
Same one with a black case
Creven405
Member
- Joined
- Aug 22, 2021
Sweet, Imma order one up…
- Joined
- May 28, 2001
That's what the flow bench voltage is when I flow test injs....
XracerX
First Methanol Kits
- Joined
- Jun 25, 2001
Hi Chuck
- Joined
- May 28, 2001
HI Joe!
TIMINATOR
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jan 26, 2020
Points to ponder in no particular order:
If you run a higher amp alternator, you need a heavier gauge wire between it and the battery. Probably 2 gauges larger, or more.
Higher amperage causes more voltage drop, anywhere, and this wire has the highest amperage on it, other than the starter.
Larger wire equals less voltage drop.
Hotter ambient temps cause more voltage drop.
There is a different wire size chart for marine wire used in enclosed boat engine compartments, and they calculate that drop on a 30 degree higher temp than ambient. The wire must be a larger gauge.
Your underhood temps will be two to three times that much.
Larger flow injectors usually draw more amps than smaller ones.
Higher RPM causes a higher duty cycle current draw on the injector wiring.
So, build an injector harness with one or two sizes heavier wires.
In your new injector harness, consider the fusible link size feeding it. You need to make that fusible link larger also because of the higher amp draw causes a higher voltage drop in it too.
It also is a good idea to run a larger gauge of wire to the coils, as a higher RPM draws more coil current.
Are you "shotgunning" the alternator amperage/voltage and entire system because there is excessive voltage drop due to too small engine wiring?
Ya know, the first thing you do after turning up the boost, is "hotwire" the fuel pump. Why ignore the ign coils and injectors?
Install a 75 amp or so meter in the battery line feeding the CAR, NOT the starter, start the car, turn on all accessories: hi beam headlites, A/C, fan on hi, interior lites, horns, 4 way emergency flashers, sound system, adjust the power seats, hit the trunk release, open the glove box if lighted, open the trunk if lighted, run the engine at, say 5000 RPM so you have the load from the injectors and ign coils, and have your buddy read the meter.
That's the size alternator you need, plus about 50/75 amps to charge the battery after starting, less with a lithium battery because they don't need, tolerate, or "like" as high of charging rate as a lead acid battery.
You will be surprised at how little the entire draw is for the entire car.
Keep in mind, while driving the car you won't be using ALL of these loads at once. Especially when just "lighting it off" or racing.
I bought the newer Holley "Lite Brite" headlites, they well over double the light output, while requiring much less amp draw (LED) AND, important to me, they are stock appearing!
Food for thought.......
TIMINATOR
If you run a higher amp alternator, you need a heavier gauge wire between it and the battery. Probably 2 gauges larger, or more.
Higher amperage causes more voltage drop, anywhere, and this wire has the highest amperage on it, other than the starter.
Larger wire equals less voltage drop.
Hotter ambient temps cause more voltage drop.
There is a different wire size chart for marine wire used in enclosed boat engine compartments, and they calculate that drop on a 30 degree higher temp than ambient. The wire must be a larger gauge.
Your underhood temps will be two to three times that much.
Larger flow injectors usually draw more amps than smaller ones.
Higher RPM causes a higher duty cycle current draw on the injector wiring.
So, build an injector harness with one or two sizes heavier wires.
In your new injector harness, consider the fusible link size feeding it. You need to make that fusible link larger also because of the higher amp draw causes a higher voltage drop in it too.
It also is a good idea to run a larger gauge of wire to the coils, as a higher RPM draws more coil current.
Are you "shotgunning" the alternator amperage/voltage and entire system because there is excessive voltage drop due to too small engine wiring?
Ya know, the first thing you do after turning up the boost, is "hotwire" the fuel pump. Why ignore the ign coils and injectors?
Install a 75 amp or so meter in the battery line feeding the CAR, NOT the starter, start the car, turn on all accessories: hi beam headlites, A/C, fan on hi, interior lites, horns, 4 way emergency flashers, sound system, adjust the power seats, hit the trunk release, open the glove box if lighted, open the trunk if lighted, run the engine at, say 5000 RPM so you have the load from the injectors and ign coils, and have your buddy read the meter.
That's the size alternator you need, plus about 50/75 amps to charge the battery after starting, less with a lithium battery because they don't need, tolerate, or "like" as high of charging rate as a lead acid battery.
You will be surprised at how little the entire draw is for the entire car.
Keep in mind, while driving the car you won't be using ALL of these loads at once. Especially when just "lighting it off" or racing.
I bought the newer Holley "Lite Brite" headlites, they well over double the light output, while requiring much less amp draw (LED) AND, important to me, they are stock appearing!
Food for thought.......
TIMINATOR
