My o2 sensor is stuck at 900 mv

[bot]

drove car aroud today no problem go to drive it again and the o2 volts are stuck around 900 mv I just put the sensor in 500 miles ago, so I tried my old one which still worked when i changed it and its stuck at 900 , I rembered I had one from a few years back that should still of worked and same thing

any thoughts

 

[bot]

power logger codes

codes 45 (02sensor)rich
code 42 Electronic spark Timing (Est,coilpack+module) monito error

I just rewire my fans today so the ecm would control them, It seem to work fine after that ,later in the day I wash the car and noticed a high idle after that, and it didnt run as smooth, air filter got a little wet very little. Went back home and noticed my tps volts were around .55 reset to .42-.44 seem to be better,parked it then I went to go for a drive later and thats whe all these code came up
first it was the code 45 then after changing the sensor, code 42 came up all so

my maf is reading higher now 7.2.7.5

 

[BoostedEvIL]

Is it really running rich or are you only showing a rich condition?
With o2s that high I would think you'd have black smoke?

 

[bot]

I didnt look back to see if there was any black smoke, as of now, I havent took it on the road yet.

I did notice my wb-o2 was maxed out when it was trying to idle, all most 20 to 22-1 peged. but it changed when it whe the ecm went to presets
back around 14 to 15-1 at idle

what would keep the narrow band o2 at .944 for all three sensors, just locked there and doesent move at all.

it wont idle vary well on its own

 

[Jerryl]

I didnt look back to see if there was any black smoke, as of now, I havent took it on the road yet.

I did notice my wb-o2 was maxed out when it was trying to idle, all most 20 to 22-1 peged. but it changed when it whe the ecm went to presets
back around 14 to 15-1 at idle

what would keep the narrow band o2 at .944 for all three sensors, just locked there and doesent move at all.

it wont idle vary well on its own

The WB and NB are reading opposite;
NB - 900mV is rich
WB - 20:1 is lean

Verify the engine/ECM ground and NB sensor connection.
The ECM is seeing "rich" as a result of the NB circuit problem, and pulling fuel.
The WB indicates the correct (actual) AFR, and I put my $$ on that reading.
(Yes, I know the NB does not read AFR, but you know what I mean )

 

[TurboDave]

With sensors being totally whacked out like that, I'm guessing you fudged up some wiring while you messed with the fan wiring.

 

[bot]

With sensors being totally whacked out like that, I'm guessing you fudged up some wiring while you messed with the fan wiring.[/QUOTE

I just added a relay control wire to ecm pin D2. which from what I read it will ground the realy on the controll side. I had my control wire hooked to a temp sender on the intake before.

I'm working on it right now, ohmed my ecm grounds to the engine and they
seem fine. ohmed the two wires for the 02 sensor, D6 to engine thats good. ohmed D7, 02 singal wire to 02 sensor plug that was good. I then ohmed that wire to ground and no shorts to ground.

I took the ecm back apart and didnt see or smell any thing burnt

I started the car and the o2 volts start at .455 and start climbing (like counting to 10 very slowly, not bouncing around at all ) and ends up at .940 and stays there


now my wb says its rich at idle around the 10-11:1 when I started it

 

[bot]

I removed the wire from d2 on the ecm and the o2 came backe to life

at idle
bouncing around .137-.901

bouncing around afr 13.8- 14.8:1


why cant I use ecm pin d2 to ground my relay, am I geting feed back from the relay to the ecm, do I need a dioed in line ??. I must be missing something
whats odd in the ecm pinout on gnttype it says its B+ but it seems every where I read the ecm ground there.

when I had it wired up to the ecm it worked all most all day

 

[TurboDave]

Pin D2 is the low speed fan control. It's and active high (+12v).

 

[bot]

Pin D2 is the low speed fan control. It's and active high (+12v).

It an active high(+12)... I dont understand that???

are you saying pin D2 puts out 12+ and I should run that to my relay
(control side) and ground the other side of the coil . Opposite of the way I had I wired before

 

[TurboDave]

It an active high(+12)... I dont understand that???

are you saying pin D2 puts out 12+ and I should run that to my relay
(control side) and ground the other side of the coil . Opposite of the way I had I wired before

I just checked the schematics. I was mistaken. You will see about 12v on D2 when there is NO fan signal... When signaled by temp sensors, the ECM will cause D2 to go to ground, supplying a ground signal to the low speed fan relay. The relay gets it's 12v from the RYLS fuse on the fuse panel.

So, when fans are needed, it's ground.

It's obvious that your car is cursed because you live in WI.

Sorry, couldn't resist. I was born and raised in Richland Center.

 

[bot]

I just checked the schematics. I was mistaken. You will see about 12v on D2 when there is NO fan signal... When signaled by temp sensors, the ECM will cause D2 to go to ground, supplying a ground signal to the low speed fan relay. The relay gets it's 12v from the RYLS fuse on the fuse panel.

So, when fans are needed, it's ground.

It's obvious that your car is cursed because you live in WI.

Sorry, couldn't resist. I was born and raised in Richland Center.

I originaly had it wired so the so the ecm grounded the relay which should have been right, but if the ecm sends a 12+ when the fans are off, I wonder if thats my problem, sending current back through the relay to my other 12+ sorce( which is fused off the battery,not through the fuse block). causing some kind of interference with the ecm or o2 sensor

would you think I need to put a dioed in line to alow it to only see a ground and block the 12+ signal going back through the relay

I looked around on the site and I dont find much info on this.

BTW while I work on the car the moskeetos are working on me. they must be savataging my car

 

[TurboDave]

The reason you're seeing 12v on that line when the fans are off, is NOT because the ECM is sending 12v out of D2, it's because you're seeing the 12v going through the relay from the source you're supplying. When the ECM energizes pin D2 it's providing a ground (current path) which will energize the relay.
Putting a diode in the line will do nothing but screw things up.

If all you're doing is taking 12v for the relay coil, you need not go to the battery for that. You'd be better off getting the 12v from a switched (ign) source.

Can't be of much help to you, not being there and seeing how everything is wired up, etc. I would strongly suggest you get someone close that is familiar with automotive wiring to look things over and advise you.

 

[bot]

The reason you're seeing 12v on that line when the fans are off, is NOT because the ECM is sending 12v out of D2, it's because you're seeing the 12v going through the relay from the source you're supplying. When the ECM energizes pin D2 it's providing a ground (current path) which will energize the relay.
Putting a diode in the line will do nothing but screw things up.

If all you're doing is taking 12v for the relay coil, you need not go to the battery for that. You'd be better off getting the 12v from a switched (ign) source.

Can't be of much help to you, not being there and seeing how everything is wired up, etc. I would strongly suggest you get someone close that is familiar with automotive wiring to look things over and advise you.

justs to let you know I switched the relays hot wire to a switched ing. source
like you said. Car seems to be all good.

ecm must not of liked that power going to it all the time.

BTW. wiring doesent bother me, but when I do somthing worng, that does

Thanx for yor help
I