High BLM's

iwantatta

Member
Joined
Aug 29, 2004
Having the High BLM issue (stuck at 150) and it has recently started happening. Have had the car about 15 years and haven't had to deal with it before. Its a california car so i have had to have it smogged every 2 years and not had any issues. Car had been running great up to this point. I've gone over the basic stuff. I've attached an image of the power logger console after starting it up. Seems to be stuck in Cell 0 only. Looked for vacuum leaks and couldn't find anything. Tried to take it to a mechanic and all they could find was the Ignition Control Module needed to be replaced which they did with an AC Delco one. That still did not solve the issue. I'm left with trying to figure this one out myself. Any ideas or things to try? Thought it might be the stock MAF and tried replacing with a blue streak one but does the same thing. Reading below is with the bluestreak MAF. i'm currently running the stock chip. My turbo tweak chip was also doing the same thing so i haven't swapped it back.

Replaced O2 sensor
Replaced Fuel Filter
Replaced PCV Valve
Spark Plugs (the ones pulled you could tell its been running rich)
Fuel Pump was replaced about 8 years ago with hotwire
Capture.PNG
 
Having the High BLM issue (stuck at 150) and it has recently started happening. Have had the car about 15 years and haven't had to deal with it before. Its a california car so i have had to have it smogged every 2 years and not had any issues. Car had been running great up to this point. I've gone over the basic stuff. I've attached an image of the power logger console after starting it up. Seems to be stuck in Cell 0 only. Looked for vacuum leaks and couldn't find anything. Tried to take it to a mechanic and all they could find was the Ignition Control Module needed to be replaced which they did with an AC Delco one. That still did not solve the issue. I'm left with trying to figure this one out myself. Any ideas or things to try? Thought it might be the stock MAF and tried replacing with a blue streak one but does the same thing. Reading below is with the bluestreak MAF. i'm currently running the stock chip. My turbo tweak chip was also doing the same thing so i haven't swapped it back.

Replaced O2 sensor
Replaced Fuel Filter
Replaced PCV Valve
Spark Plugs (the ones pulled you could tell its been running rich)
Fuel Pump was replaced about 8 years ago with hotwire
View attachment 391269
"Looked for vacuum leaks and couldn't find anything". - Did you examine the exhaust manifolds welds for any splitting or cracks e.g. between 3 & 5 or 2 & 4 ?
 
"Looked for vacuum leaks and couldn't find anything". - Did you examine the exhaust manifolds welds for any splitting or cracks e.g. between 3 & 5 or 2 & 4 ?
No, i haven't tried that yet. Will give that a shot too. I'm also looking at the stock injectors probably need to be replaced. I did check to hear that all were clicking but not sure that tells everything. Would an IAC be part of the problem if its an idle thing or when it drops below a certain rpm? When i'm driving it would be fine but when the RPM's drop it wants to stall.
 
water temp is 127 and ECM is calling for 12.8
get it wormed up and drive it and not just around the block the send a screen shot
 
Do you have a 6.1 TT chip ?
If so remove the orange wire at the battery , reinstalled the chip and double check the WB setting
 
No i don't have the 6.1. Its a 5.7. I'm assuming the 6.1 is for have a wideband? I don't have a wideband gauge installed. Something i've considered but have not done yet. If it helps diagnose i can drive it around more but have been hesitant to because i have to crawl home with all the stops because it stalls at them. Getting to a freeway would be ideal but quite a few stops on the way.
 
Check for pre turbo exhaust leaks and vacuum leaks. Install a new Denso 02 sensor. Headers, crossover pipe and where the turbo flange could be leaking. The EGR valve is notorious for leaking as well. Don't take it anywhere until you have the BLM issue sorted out. BLM's are telling you it's lean. Drive it and you'll chance blowing it up. Get the water temp up to proper temperature before you take readings.
 
IAC at 51 he has 16 in vacuum at idle 800 RM, I don't think he has a vacuum leak. Unplug the orange wire reinstall the 5.7.
Ill be honest don't know what the OE 02 should look like ,But it looks like a lean number to me. If it is it would be a good reason for the ECU to add fuel. And time for a new Denso.
 
No i don't have the 6.1. Its a 5.7. I'm assuming the 6.1 is for have a wideband? I don't have a wideband gauge installed. Something i've considered but have not done yet. If it helps diagnose i can drive it around more but have been hesitant to because i have to crawl home with all the stops because it stalls at them. Getting to a freeway would be ideal but quite a few stops on the way.
First not one of use asked about fuel pressure, should have been the first thing we should have asked.
Boys were slipping! The stalling should have made me open my eyes and go there first.
Stuck in cell 1. Yes you hove to be putting a load on the Engine for it to move.
 
The fuel pressure is 36psi with line off and 41psi with line on. I just replaced the O2 sensor with an AC Delco AFS21.
 
Read Erics instructions.
I threw back on the stock pressure regulator. My adjustable FPR was on when the problem was first noticed. I don't think its an adjustment with the fuel because its been set for along time with the adjustable and had been running fine. This problem just recently came out.

Wouldn't i want to try to get things running with the stock chip & stock FPR if the problem was still noticed with the TT chip and adjustable? I'd be concerned about masking the issue by adjusting something.
 
Read Erics instructions...for the fuel pressure he recommends with his chip.
 
something is not right with fuel pressure. it should be 43 line off, Not 41 line on . 36 line off.
My car at -17 or 17 in is 34 line on. 43 line off.
Did you record those numbers backwards ?
If you are in fact 41 line off it will add fuel.
If you switched back to OE regulator fuel pressure MUST be 43 line off. If lower than 43 ECU will add fuel (elevated BLM)
I would ALLWAS stay with the TT chip. OE chip Wiil Knock.
Adjustable fuel pressure is a must have adding or subtracting One PSI will change BLMs and factor cheep fuel pressure gage you can be off.
As for stalling I would tape my fuel pressure gage to the wiper arm and see if fuel pressure falls when it stumbles.
 
something is not right with fuel pressure. it should be 43 line off, Not 41 line on . 36 line off.
My car at -17 or 17 in is 34 line on. 43 line off.
Did you record those numbers backwards ?
If you are in fact 41 line off it will add fuel.
If you switched back to OE regulator fuel pressure MUST be 43 line off. If lower than 43 ECU will add fuel (elevated BLM)
I would ALLWAS stay with the TT chip. OE chip Wiil Knock.
Adjustable fuel pressure is a must have adding or subtracting One PSI will change BLMs and factor cheep fuel pressure gage you can be off.
As for stalling I would tape my fuel pressure gage to the wiper arm and see if fuel pressure falls when it stumbles.
He hasn't got the fuel pressure set correctly for Erics chip...that's why I told him to read Erics instructions.
 
He hasn't got the fuel pressure set correctly for Erics chip...that's why I told him to read Erics instructions.
Yes you have brought to his attention several main points that needs to be attended to.
It appears he has read over them without acting, So I gave him the number out front for him.
New data in for him. I have a screen shot of my car sitting in the staging lane.its a little wormer water temp ,I was hot lapping but it made a other 11.5 pass. your PL should look like this at water temp 160+
you have reinstalled the OE chip it will open and close the EGR The TT chip dose not use EGR function. You may have introduced a EGR leak by installing the OE chip.
Your 02 v are off (you need a 02 sensor)
I see the need to go back to basics but OE chip needs to be saved for I have the OE but not used
 

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