My Hot Air Build Thread...Paint and Performance.

[Toby_Goodmk]

aluminum pan is good, the only solution that I have heard will solve the leaking pan issue. A decent Victor Reinz gasket that has some of the rubber particles in it is what I used on some Buick 350 pans that were having leaking issues. Taking a compression test is a good thing to do, look up specs here or on gnttype.org for the numbers.

 

[Wahoo]

aluminum pan is good, the only solution that I have heard will solve the leaking pan issue. A decent Victor Reinz gasket that has some of the rubber particles in it is what I used on some Buick 350 pans that were having leaking issues. Taking a compression test is a good thing to do, look up specs here or on gnttype.org for the numbers.

How would I do a compression test on a hot air? Isn't the Turbo in the way and the test is supposed to be done when the engine is fully warmed up?

 

[Wahoo]

I didn't get as much done as I would have liked this weekend. I did heilicoil the passenger steering knuckle due to the caliper threads being stripped out. It was a success!!

Also started to degrease/ clean the engine compartment a little... Need to figure out the exact cause of my oil leak. The car did come with a oil pan gasket which is nice. I want to confirm if its the best one to use so I took a picture to show the part number.

Also need to do the timing chain and cam sprocket so I need to find the best parts for that job as well!

Here's a picture of the oil pan gasket. Is it a good one to use? I have a 20 bolt oil pan, is that correct for an '85?

 

[Wahoo]

So I would like to do the compression test this weekend, I hope my buddy will be free to help me with his compression tester.

I did notice the rear of my passenger valve cover is leaking, any tips for replacing that as well?

Thx

 

[Wahoo]

Pulled the spark plugs out, disconnected the fuel pump relay. Now do I only have to disconnect the orange wire near the battery to disable the ignition? So I can do the compression test?


My buddy is still busy but while I wait for him I started to use aircraft stripper on the trunk to get it down to bare metal...

I used a DA to ruff it up a little before I apply the stuff. I heard it would help, but it still took 3 coats of the stuff to get not even half way there! I used almost 2/3's of the container of the aircraft stripper. I bought it from advance auto... Maybe this is normal for it to take so many coats? Makes me feel like I would have been done sooner if I tried mechanically!!!

Pics!

 

[Wahoo]

I did my compression test, my buddys compression tester gauge seemed to be either at 0 but not on the stop pin? Or it was stuck right in the middle of 0-30psi (15psi), hard to tell because at the zero it has a big white square and it basically lined up with that, but I figured I could always substract the 15psi from all the readings, and the main thing was to make sure all cylinders were within 10% of each other.

They all were around 150, none less, and none higher than 157. The test was done cold because I didnt know if I could really reach my hands down with the engine hot to get the plug out on the turbo side. So i'm happy the motor seems health, I did start it up earlier that day so hopefully that helped a little with oil and what not.

Once I was finished i put new plugs in, autolite #6's gaped to .032 i believe when I bought them i read they were a good choice for a mostly stock car, maybe i'm wrong who knows. Unfortunately The rear passenger plug I think I gunked up trying to install, it was hard to find the hole, and everything was greasy and dirty :/

Everytime I tried to get it in the hole I would pull it back away from the hole and was spinning it in grease on the side of the head... i kept having to clean the plug because I felt like there was no way I could put it in with all the greasy dirt on it.

Well I think I have to pull it back out because the car seems to have a slight miss at idle now, might of got dirty trying to find the hole, any tips on getting it in the hole easier?

 

[mikemcvaney]

Pulled the spark plugs out, disconnected the fuel pump relay. Now do I only have to disconnect the orange wire near the battery to disable the ignition? So I can do the compression test?


My buddy is still busy but while I wait for him I started to use aircraft stripper on the trunk to get it down to bare metal...

I used a DA to ruff it up a little before I apply the stuff. I heard it would help, but it still took 3 coats of the stuff to get not even half way there! I used almost 2/3's of the container of the aircraft stripper. I bought it from advance auto... Maybe this is normal for it to take so many coats? Makes me feel like I would have been done sooner if I tried mechanically!!!

Pics!

apply the stripper cery wet then place a sheet of plastic over the stripper press down toremove the air pockets and walk away for an hour this keeps the stripper wet than remove with scraper and reapply as needed. Try that it will be a lot faster

 

[Wahoo]

apply the stripper cery wet then place a sheet of plastic over the stripper press down toremove the air pockets and walk away for an hour this keeps the stripper wet than remove with scraper and reapply as needed. Try that it will be a lot faster

I heard of putting plastic sheets over it, I just thought it would be harder to prevent getting it on areas I don't want it to be on.

 

[Wahoo]

Also, should I remove the metal piece in between the trunk and the rear window? In order to tape off the rear window better and clean any grease and dirt? Should I paint it seperate since removing it is probably the best idea? Paint it seperate like the header panel and bumper fillers?

 

[Wahoo]

Also made a video on how to remove the windows and the goop (black sticky stuff) from the car body