My fuel system update

[Pronto]

This is how I updated my fuel system. PLEASE, I do not want this to turn into a debate on whether larger fuel lines are needed! My feed line had a crimp in the line near the fuel filter from someone having a hard time removing the fuel filter before I owned the car. Some areas of the lines were showing signs of rust as well. I also was not getting a 1 to 1 raise in fuel pressure with boost. I did not want to deal with refitting the stock style stainless steel lines and those stupid Saginaw fittings. My fuel pump was old and I was not sure if it could supply the volume of fuel I need so I decided to go with a double pumper from Racetronix. If I hadn't got the double pumper last year I think I might have gone with the new 430lph pump from Racetronix mostly because the double pumper is a pain to get in the tank and the hot wire harness doesn't need a Hobbs switch. Anyway, I installed the double pumper and harness, cleaned up the tank and went with new rubber insulators and straps. I also ran a 10 gauge ground from the harness ground to the battery.


For the lines I decided to go with Goodridge 811 Stainless Steel Braid PTFE line with the G-line fittings, 8AN feed and 6AN return. After spending some quality time feeling around the body and frame I found where the lines could run without rubbing on anything or being exposed too much. The feed and return are both on the drivers side following the old return route. I used a new stock filter mounted forward of the stock location. The feed then goes up the firewall, loops across the firewall and then up to the fuel rail. The return goes from the stock location fuel regulator, under the throttle body and uses the stock location 3/8” feed line as the return. The return then goes through the front frame like the orginal feed the back to the gas tank.

 

[Pronto]

To attach the AN fitting to the stock filter and fuel rail I used AN to Metric adapters. To mount the fittings to the stock feed line at the engine I used Compression to AN fittings at the top end. For the bottom end I needed to use a compression fitting, bent line and a Compression to AN fitting. For the fuel pressure regulator I used an adjustable AN to Metric 90* fitting.

Here is the list of parts I used:

Hose- Goodrigde 811 stainless steel PTFE line.

8AN- 19 feet had about 2' left over

6AN- 18 feet had about 2' left over

Goodrige G-line AN fittings-

6AN straight swivel- 3

6AN 90* swivel-1

8AN straight swivel- 3

8AN 180* sweep tube

Sold by Ractronix, Plumbing Monkey, Pegasus Racing, etc



AN to Metric fittings-

½” JIC (8AN) x M16 x 1.5 Metric- 3 fuel filter and fuel rail

3/8” JIC (6AN) x M14 x 1.5 90* Metric- 1 fuel regulator

3/8” JIC (6AN) x 3.8” Flairless- 2 convert fuel feed line to 6AN for return

3/8” JIC Plug – 1 use to protect junk from going in the line on install

1/2” JIC Plug -1 use to protect junk from going in the line on install

3/8” x 3/8” compression fitting-1 use on return line near frame

AN to Metric fittings from www.discounthydraulichose.com



3/8” fuel line bent to fit



Stainless Steel cushon clamps 10AN fits the 8AN 811 well www.siliconeintakes.com

Stainless Steel cushon clamps 6AN fits the 6AN 811 well www.siliconeintakes.com



The 8AN to Metric fittings need to be ground down quite a bit to allow it to seal to the washer

The 6AN 90* to Metric fitting may need to be lightly ground down.

Accufab fuel pressure regulator needs to be disassembled and the exit tube bored out to 3/16”. The tube is very hard. I had a machinist drill it out. Get an extra fuel rail O ring in case you pinch it like I did.



The Goodridge 811 is not difficult to work. I found the best way to cut the stainless steel braid was a reinforced disc for my dremel tool. It cut clean and had the least amount of flairing of the braid. I had no luck with a hack saw. I used thick colored tape to hold the threads tight for the cut. After the collar was installed over the line I used a large tapered drift to smooth out the PTFE. A light coat of 3-1 oil on the threads worked well for assembly. Before installing blow out the lines very well with compressed air. Use plugs to protect the AN fittings and keep dirt out of the lines when you run them.

There are many ways to do upgraded lines. You can use other brands of lines but I would suggest PTFE for flexiblity.



Dropping the tank is not difficult. I drained the fuel with a line on the port and powering the pump with the electrical connection by the alternator. You can also use that to power up the pump to check for leaks before starting the engine. Loosen the clamp holding the metal lines so they can swing down. I supported the tank with a floor jack and took off the gas cap. Loosen the straps and down it comes. Getting the double pumper in the tank is tricky. I had to persuade it with the bracket with a screw driver but it does fit. The new rubber insulators that I got were a little short so I had to improvise with some double sided velcro to extend the ends. Getting the straps back on is not easiest to do alone but with some choice words they go back. You don't have to jack the car up real high to do most of the work. I threw down some cardboard and slithered around on it. I borrowed some ideas from others, namely Turbofabricator, Mark Huffman and Sakudog. Hope this helps someone trying to figure out how to do this.

 

[696]

Looks good. About the same thing as mine but different routing. Like you I knew I would need it some day so paid for it now...

 

[87-WE2]

Great write up! Well thought out and documented with the pictures and instructions.

 

[Pronto]

Thanks, I tried to follow Mark's example.

 

[Joeld]

nice reference post would be great in how to section also

 

[gunslinger]

Looks great!
That definitely removes any questions about the fuel system.

 

[belsie]

Great write up, 3 questions: #1 what did you do with vapor / breather line (I had thought about a filter at the rear eliminating the line & canister?) #2 I noticed no wires on tps (just curious) #3 how did you route new lines around engine area? Thanks for the feedback

 

[turbofabricator]

That is what I do. I run a hose and a give it a 360* loop and suff a cheap plastic fuel filter in the end of it and seacure at the back of the car. Looks really cool hanging under the rear bumper. (joking)

 

[JP112_89]

Nice job! Great write up too.

Joe

 

[Pronto]

Great write up, 3 questions: #1 what did you do with vapor / breather line (I had thought about a filter at the rear eliminating the line & canister?) #2 I noticed no wires on tps (just curious) #3 how did you route new lines around engine area? Thanks for the feedback

I left the vapor line to function normal. It's not showing in the pictures. I had unplugged the TPS to gain access and took the pic b/f I hooked it back up, good eye!

 

[ttypewhite]

Beautiful job!!! looks very nice and as mentioned, well detailed. good write up.

I would just like to add a little food for thought. Your setup was not much different then mine (in terms of fuel delivery) when I was running the Weldon 1100A. I, like you, ran all new lines and retained the factory fuel filter with AN fittings, later to find out that that filter will not keep up with the fuel flow of the 1100A. Luckily I caught that in time because i noticed my external pump was really hot and had me questioning stuff. I changed out the factory filter with a Aeromotive one and noticed a huge difference in temps. I could actually keep my hand in the pump after running it for a long period of time which I couldn't do before. The double pumper might work different when used with the hobb switch, but WOT is all the same. just keep an eye on it. IMO you already did the hard work, just swap out the filter with a Aeromotive one. Easier to do filter changes, flows better and doesn't effect anything you have already done. All the best with your setup.

 

[Pronto]

Thanks Mike. Ya, I did think about not using the stock filter but the costs kept climbing and like you suggested I can simply change that latter. What size micron filter did you run?

 

[ttypewhite]

I run a 100 before my pump and a 10 after it. I know what you mean about the cost......... it's crazy how fast things start getting out of control.

 

[Racetronix]

This is how I updated my fuel system. PLEASE, I do not want this to turn into a debate on whether larger fuel lines are needed! My feed line had a crimp in the line near the fuel filter from someone having a hard time removing the fuel filter before I owned the car. Some areas of the lines were showing signs of rust as well. I also was not getting a 1 to 1 raise in fuel pressure with boost. I did not want to deal with refitting the stock style stainless steel lines and those stupid Saginaw fittings. My fuel pump was old and I was not sure if it could supply the volume of fuel I need so I decided to go with a double pumper from Racetronix. If I hadn't got the double pumper last year I think I might have gone with the new 430lph pump from Racetronix mostly because the double pumper is a pain to get in the tank and the hot wire harness doesn't need a Hobbs switch. Anyway, I installed the double pumper and harness, cleaned up the tank and went with new rubber insulators and straps. I also ran a 10 gauge ground from the harness ground to the battery.
View attachment 191140 View attachment 191141

For the lines I decided to go with Goodridge 811 Stainless Steel Braid PTFE line with the G-line fittings, 8AN feed and 6AN return. After spending some quality time feeling around the body and frame I found where the lines could run without rubbing on anything or being exposed too much. The feed and return are both on the drivers side following the old return route. I used a new stock filter mounted forward of the stock location. The feed then goes up the firewall, loops across the firewall and then up to the fuel rail. The return goes from the stock location fuel regulator, under the throttle body and uses the stock location 3/8” feed line as the return. The return then goes through the front frame like the orginal feed the back to the gas tank.
View attachment 191142 View attachment 191143 View attachment 191144 View attachment 191146 View attachment 191147 View attachment 191148 View attachment 191149 View attachment 191150

The relay and chassis ground must be mounted on the tank strap bolt. You have a dedicated / isolated stud with 10g wire. You may place the 10g wire on the tank strap bolt as well but the primary ground should be the chassis with a clean metal surface.

 

[Pronto]

The dedicated 10 gauge ground goes to your body ground wire on the fender but I can easily move the ground to the strap bolt and add a jumper to the stud. Then there will be redundant grounds with 10 gauge wire. Thanks for that info.

 

[Ttype6]

I can't see how you connected the -8 to the fuel rail,but the adapters you're using to adapt your filter to -8 is a bottle neck. Here is a link to an awesome filter and the nicest adapters I know of. The bang for the buck is awesome.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-649250/media/images

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aei-15610/overview/

 

[Pronto]

The metric to 8AN fittings are very nice bright steel, no restrictions there. Same basic design as that one you link to. I like the steel ones better than aluminum, cheaper too. I'm in no rush to change to a different filter. I know Jack Cotton ran 9s with the stocker years ago. I'm no where near that hp so it should be OK. If in the future I determine its a problem I can easily change it.

 

[Pronto]

OK, put the ground on the tank strap bolt and made a little 10 gauge jumper to the ground stud. Got redundant grounds now.

 

[Ttype6]

The metric to 8AN fittings are very nice bright steel, no restrictions there. Same basic design as that one you link to. I like the steel ones better than aluminum, cheaper too. I'm in no rush to change to a different filter. I know Jack Cotton ran 9s with the stocker years ago. I'm no where near that hp so it should be OK. If in the future I determine its a problem I can easily change it.

Did you use the same adapter to connect to the fuel rail?