My first post.. need help tuning a Typhoon on Alky Control kit please

[Jer]

Hello everyone. I've been reading posts for a bit now and realized it was time to register and ask some specific questions as they pertain to my particular set-up.

I currently have the Alky Control kit and plan to run 100% methanol. I got the lines in the mail today (Thanks Razor) and plan to install the final parts tomorrow to start pouring in the good stuff.

My truck is a '92 Typhoon with a freshly built engine (~2k miles):

*Stock block bored .030 over. Block was sonic tested and mag'd before any work was done.
*Stock crank serviced by Crank Shaft supplies in Minneapolis. Turned .020 on the mains and .010 on the rods. All oil holes chamfered and bearing surfaces polished
*Speed Pro .030 over pistons with coated skirts
*Speed Pro chrome moly rings
*Clyoes double roller timing chain
*L-35 rods (brand new out of the box)
*L-35 heads un ported
*Comp Cams valve springs with new retainers and keepers
*Comp Cams push rods
*Comp Cams hydraulic lifters
*Factory cam
*GMPP 1.6 roller rockers
*GMPP 2 bolt billet steel main caps
*Clevite 77 main and rod bearings
*Melling Z28 oil pump
*GM oil pick up
*Edelbrock aluminum water pump
*GM head gaskets
*ARP head studs
*ARP main studs
*B&M flexplate
*ARP flex plate bolts
*ARP cam gear bolts with retainer plate
*GM upper and lower intake gaskets

and a T3/T4 Garett hybrid turbo:
- .60 a/r Garett compressor housing with 57 trim turbonetics wheel
- .63 a/r Turbonetics 5 bolt turbine housing with turbonetics Stage V wheel
*Turbonetics Deltagate external wastegate
*Turbonetics manual boost controller
*3" downpipe with pyrometer and accommodations for two O2 sensors (wideband and the stocker at the same time)
*3" exhaust exiting just behind the torsion bar crossover

Walbro 255, Stock injectors, adjustable FPR, A2A intercooler, Ultimate V9 chip/gauge w/three bar.

I have the following gauges to keep an eye on things: Boost, EGT, Ultimate V9 gauge and I also have a scan tool hard wired in the glove box with the monitor removed and mounted in a box above the stereo that allows me to monitor many things (current O2v, manifold temp, spark advance & coolant temp).

My questions are:

1) What plugs should I run and at what gap?

2) I'm pretty sure the sweet spot if this turbo is about 25psi so should I dump in the meth and slowly crank up the boost until I get to that level and then back out the meth until I get knock and then add a little more back in or ???

3) My V9 has three settings for timing (T1, T2 & T3) and several for boost (15 all the way to 24) and I was wondering if this also adjusts the fuel maps and how so. I have a turbonetics boost controller so it doesn't affect boost but do I use the boost settings to fine tune the fuel?

4) Will I be safe running advanced timing (T2 or maybe even T3) on 25 pounds of boost 91oct and 100% methanol?

5) Is there anything else I need in the way of parts (aside from a new transmission ) or tips I need before I get started?

Thanks for the help.

 

[Razor]

You need to get good tires

Start on low timing, mild boost like 18 PSI and watch the motor respond to the alky. make sure it responds clean, doesnt surge, and keeps the knock down. Put the blue knob in the middle position.. leave the internal controls alone.

if you get some sputtering, drop fuel pressure a little..like 2 lbs and see if it cleans up.

Plugs normal AC Delco's standard heat range. You can gap them down a little, that typically helps with higher boost. Like .032.

You have some ways to.. start slow work your way up. If you run into a fluttering tach issue, email me for the fix. Some do.. some dont.

call me during the day if you have any questions. You'll be fine.

Ohh almost forgot.. Welcome Aboard

 

[Jer]

Tires are the last of my concern right now as I have all season performance tires in stock wheel right now and plan to leave them as winter driving is my main priority w/this vehicle since it's my new winter transportation. Besides, a little spin at the launch causes the least shock and is the most healthy for the transmission/transfer case.

Let's say it reacts fine to 18psi, do I then increase boost w/o adjusting the blue knob (unless I get knock) to say 24 or 25psi? Once all is good there do I attempt the next level of timing and once that is attained (again, assuming I've added in enough meth for no knock at this boost level and timing advancement) start backing off methanol to reach the safe level w/o dumping tons of methanol in?

While all of this is going on am I lowering my FPR or leave it as is?

I plan to add the lines and mount the control module tomorrow morning and want to have all this straight in my mind so I can start tuning right away.

Thanks for the welcome and showing me this forum.

Originally posted by Razor
You need to get good tires

Start on low timing, mild boost like 18 PSI and watch the motor respond to the alky. make sure it responds clean, doesnt surge, and keeps the knock down. Put the blue knob in the middle position.. leave the internal controls alone.

if you get some sputtering, drop fuel pressure a little..like 2 lbs and see if it cleans up.

Plugs normal AC Delco's standard heat range. You can gap them down a little, that typically helps with higher boost. Like .032.

You have some ways to.. start slow work your way up. If you run into a fluttering tach issue, email me for the fix. Some do.. some dont.

call me during the day if you have any questions. You'll be fine.

Ohh almost forgot.. Welcome Aboard

 

[Jer]

Also, if the sweet spot of this turbo is 25psi on race gas then would it actually be higher as the charge wouldn't be overheated since the methanol would cool it down? In other words, is it possible that I can run 30psi on a turbo that starts overheating the air before that sans methanol?

I'm just trying to figure out what my target boost is and at what point I can add in a lil' timing.

 

[Razor]

Rome wasnt created in one day...

get it running clean.. keep adding methanol and boost. Neat thing is as the boost goes up so does the alcohol..so that kinda autotunes it self in. Trick is getting the fuel curved in to complement the alcohol. Hence why I mentioned dropping fuel pressure a little since this has the effect of dropping the entire fueling curve.

Once it runs at your target boost.. then squeeze on it bu adding timing, dropping fuel, adding alcohol, etc.. The factory preset will get you in the ball park. get it to work on the internal settings I programmed into it.. then work from there.

You may need some chip work.. wont know until you start tuning.

Worry bout making clean solid electrical connections. take your time with the install.. make it rite once.. never worry bout it.

Ohh you'll need tires when you crank the boost to 25 and the truck is all over the road I can recommend 4 nitto drag radials

Let the engine and fluids warm up if its cold outside. Play it safe, tires lose traction easy when temps go under 50 degree's.

The warmer the engine the better.

 

[Jer]

All good info accept Nitto Drags SUK on the ice and snow.

...I'll take my time and ease up my 'smiles per hour'

Now, if only I could get a mod to add custom avatar for me so I can post up my Superman/USA tirbute I would be all set.

Originally posted by Razor
Rome wasnt created in one day...

get it running clean.. keep adding methanol and boost. Neat thing is as the boost goes up so does the alcohol..so that kinda autotunes it self in. Trick is getting the fuel curved in to complement the alcohol. Hence why I mentioned dropping fuel pressure a little since this has the effect of dropping the entire fueling curve.

Once it runs at your target boost.. then squeeze on it bu adding timing, dropping fuel, adding alcohol, etc.. The factory preset will get you in the ball park. get it to work on the internal settings I programmed into it.. then work from there.

You may need some chip work.. wont know until you start tuning.

Worry bout making clean solid electrical connections. take your time with the install.. make it rite once.. never worry bout it.

Ohh you'll need tires when you crank the boost to 25 and the truck is all over the road I can recommend 4 nitto drag radials

Let the engine and fluids warm up if its cold outside. Play it safe, tires lose traction easy when temps go under 50 degree's.

The warmer the engine the better.

 

[broke1]

Im crying.Youre actually going to drive a Typhoon in snow and ice and subject it to road salt??

Poor,poor,truck.Sell it to me and ill make sure it gets the home it deserves.And thatd be a home where it only comes out on sunny days.Its more rare than any car in your sig and one day will probably be worth more too.

Im begging you to please dont do that to the truck.$500 FWD cars are winter beaters,not Sy's and Ty's.

Im sad thinking of the winter driver Typhoon

 

[Jer]

Originally posted by broke1
Im crying.Youre actually going to drive a Typhoon in snow and ice and subject it to road salt??

Poor,poor,truck.Sell it to me and ill make sure it gets the home it deserves.And thatd be a home where it only comes out on sunny days.Its more rare than any car in your sig and one day will probably be worth more too.

Im begging you to please dont do that to the truck.$500 FWD cars are winter beaters,not Sy's and Ty's.

Im sad thinking of the winter driver Typhoon

There there lil guy... dry your eyes. I never used the term 'beater' as it's not. I'm self employed and work from home so my driving is minimul and is mostly just for enjoyment and almost nill if it's snowing. I just know if something came up and I had to drive the Supra wouldn't get me there safely but an AWD 4,200lb vehicle will. Trust me, it's garaged all of the time and spends less time in the elements than 90% of the Typhoons out there. Also, Colorado doesn't use all that much salt on their roads.

All that being said it's almost insulting saying that I won't give it the home/care it deserves. That's like accuisng a mother of child abuse based on little to no evidence.

 

[broke1]

You drive it in snow,it doesnt have the home it deserves.Not that much salt??

 

[Jer]

Originally posted by broke1
You drive it in snow,it doesnt have the home it deserves.Not that much salt??

I'm not going ot argue with you on the internet about MY vehicles.

You're right... I treat my vehicles like crap. Now go away.

 

[broke1]

Well then why not go to a Sy/Ty board and ask them for help??We respect our vehicles around here and the only way were driving them in the winter is if it is our only mode of transportation.Go to syty.org and tell em your plans and I bet you get alot worse than what ive told ya and from alot more people.

 

[Jer]

Because it doesn't have an alky section specifically. Just ignore the statement about winter tires if it bothers you so much. These are the facts:

1) Colorado is the sunniest state in the country, it has more days of sunshine than even Florida so winters aren't as harsh as people would think.

2) I put 6k miles on all my vehicles combined last year including road trips so I just don't drive that much. The amount of miles my Ty will get driven will be limited and rarely do I have to drive somewhere. If it's cold or snowing driving will be on a necessity basis only and working from home that will be rare.

How does it being your only vehicle somehow excuse the fact that it may get driven once in the snow? I bought the vehicle because I always wanted one and it fits the purpose it needs to right now which is an AWD SUV that can be driven in the snow if need be.

Now, this topic is about tuning methanol and fuel so if you want to continue to discuss this off topic info, PM me or start a thread in another area of the forum. Thanks.