Maf translator settings

J

Jackie grabos

Member
Joined
Feb 2, 2011
I have an 87 gn. I just got a tt chip. Have a first gen maf translator v 5. I have jumpers set and wot set to zero. What should I have the other setting at idle set for? It was set to run 10% lean at idle. The other options are 10% rich or just a 3 inch maf sensor setting. It does not mention setting in tt chip instructions, it just says set acceding to your setup. Would a 10% rich setting at idle help prevent knock? The previous chip was last generation extenders chip. Thanks
 
Jackie grabos said:
I have an 87 gn. I just got a tt chip. Have a first gen maf translator v 5. I have jumpers set and wot set to zero. What should I have the other setting at idle set for? It was set to run 10% lean at idle. The other options are 10% rich or just a 3 inch maf sensor setting. It does not mention setting in tt chip instructions, it just says set acceding to your setup. Would a 10% rich setting at idle help prevent knock? The previous chip was last generation extenders chip. Thanks
Click to expand...

The "rich idle" setting only controls "idle", so it really has not affect on WOT.
Set everything to "0" and turn the boost down, make a run, and watch for KR.

What scantool are you using and athow/when do you see KR?
 
It was getting knock around 12 psi. Checked fuel press regulator and was at 31 off line. Bumped it up to 43 off line and car did not get knock until about 15 psi. When I checked pressure with car running it was at 41 off line. Not sure if fuel press regulator is failing under boost. It is running better, going to try and increase pressure some more and see if that works. Do not have scan tool, but do have audible knock sensor. Only wanting to run about 15 psi. Will probably get new pressure regulator and fuel filter to cover my bases. But car does run better with higher pressure. Injectors are Lucas red stripe they have 40.1 lbs at 45 psi according to specs. I have a te 60 turbo and just switched back to duttneck intercooler to help with overheating. Car now does not get over 190 in stop and go traffic. Going to look into scan master for next purchase.
 
Also, since you are in Houston, could you recommend a place that has experience with these cars to get it tuned if this does not work? I am on nw side of town. Thanks
 
Jackie grabos said:
It was getting knock around 12 psi. Checked fuel press regulator and was at 31 off line. Bumped it up to 43 off line and car did not get knock until about 15 psi. When I checked pressure with car running it was at 41 off line. Not sure if fuel press regulator is failing under boost. It is running better, going to try and increase pressure some more and see if that works. Do not have scan tool, but do have audible knock sensor. Only wanting to run about 15 psi. Will probably get new pressure regulator and fuel filter to cover my bases. But car does run better with higher pressure. Injectors are Lucas red stripe they have 40.1 lbs at 45 psi according to specs. I have a te 60 turbo and just switched back to duttneck intercooler to help with overheating. Car now does not get over 190 in stop and go traffic. Going to look into scan master for next purchase.
Click to expand...

There is a big diffrence between 41 and 43-44 psi on setting off the sensor.
Reset to 43, line off. Make SURE the hoses are zip tied.

Remember, when it gets cooler, you will need more fuel as well.
I have seen an easy 10% change between summer and winter, even in Texas!
 
Once pressure is set should it decrease when car is warmed up? If it is not holding I assume this means the pressure regulator is bad or if it was bad will it not hold any pressure at all? Also, should I increase the setting on the chip, ex 10% more fuel at wot, or just adjust from the pressure regulator to start? Will check it tomorrow when I get home, the car will have been setting for 24 hrs. When started it should be where it was set last correct? Vacuum line for regulator has zip ties but i can take it off by pulling on it. Will zip tie all lines and recheck. Thanks
 
Jerryl said:
The "rich idle" setting only controls "idle", so it really has not affect on WOT.
Set everything to "0" and turn the boost down, make a run, and watch for KR.

What scantool are you using and athow/when do you see KR?
Click to expand...

There is no "idle" setting. There's a "base"(which controls the entire fuel curve) knob and a "wot"(self explanitory) knob for control over wot fuel (when using an extender chip).
 
ok, the base setting for the fuel curve was set at 10% lean at idle. is this the best setting to avoid knock? if i switch back to extender chip. what are the best settings to avoid knock? should i increses the fuel curve to run rich at idle or just leave at neutral setting for 3" maf sensor. should i increse fuel at wot? where would you recommend to start? thanks for clearing this up. it seems i have easier tuning ability with extender chip.
 
You should set the Translator for the MAF you have. If you have a 3" LT1 MAF, then the proper setting is #3 for the MAF Base.

You would only use the base "richer" or "leaner" setting if you are having trouble with your BLM at idle. But since you have no scantool, you don't know what the BLM is.

The Base setting will have no effect on knock, since it's largest effect is at idle.

You can increase WOT fuel with both chips, but they do it differently. The TT chip needs a scantool to make the adjustment. The Extender uses the WOT knob in the Translator.

I would say if increasing the fuel pressure helped the knock, go another couple psi to see if it continues to help. I wouldn't go too much higher than 46-47psi.

Other than that, you'll probably have to wait until you get a scantool on there to do further tuning.

Regards,
Eric
 
just got back. switched to extender chip, incresased fuel press reg to 46-47. still got knock at 15. i turned down the boost one turn and set maf translator to run 4% more fuel at wot. just got 15-16lbs of boost the knock sensor did not alarm. hope this has finally fixed the problem and do not have to repost about headgaskett repair later. thanks for the help.
 
TurboDave said:
There is no "idle" setting. There's a "base"(which controls the entire fuel curve) knob and a "wot"(self explanitory) knob for control over wot fuel (when using an extender chip).
Click to expand...
True.
Not sure what I was thinking . . . . I meant to say the "rich idle" and "lean idle" setting.
 
hey, have a quick question. set fuel pressure to 46 psi and set wot to 4% rich. was getting no knock when weather was warm at 16 lbs of boost. with the cold front it is getting knock around 15 lbs of boost. should i set the base to run 10% rich on maf translator, or should i bump up wot settings until knock is gone or both? thanks
 
Jackie grabos said:
hey, have a quick question. set fuel pressure to 46 psi and set wot to 4% rich. was getting no knock when weather was warm at 16 lbs of boost. with the cold front it is getting knock around 15 lbs of boost. should i set the base to run 10% rich on maf translator, or should i bump up wot settings until knock is gone or both? thanks
Click to expand...

Yes . . . . . LOL
Add 10% WOT, but do it in the chip, leave the translator at zero.

You have two other coices as well:
1-Lower the boost
2-Add octane
 
i switched back to extender chip. i thought you could adjust wot with translator with this chip in. will lower boost some also. thanks
 
Get yourself a scanmaster. A solid investment for a Turbo Buick enthusiast.
yes.gif
 
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