LS1/f-body rear brake swap

[MonteC]

You should have tried turning the KYB bolt around.

I did. it looked stupid, and it just didnt seem stable.

 

[charlief1]

IF the shocks are barely touching at FULL droop, they probably will not need relocation. With the car on jackstands and rear end hanging, the shock to caliper clearance is at the worst condition. As the suspension is compressed, the clearance increases due to the angularity.

It is unlikely that the suspension would travel that far in ANY driving, excepting of course jumping over hills.

I'm not sure how much lateral movement the rear axle has. The lateral movement, might have an effect on clearance.

The best way to test for clearance is to use old shocks without relocating brackets. See how big a dent or mark, if any, is left on the shock tube.

That said, I’m leaving my rear disc brake conversion and rear end swap as the last project, getting my car together and driveable is more important.

My axle was fully supported by jackstands when I checked the clearence. Granted I had the calipers reversed at first and even when I put them on correctly they still had some issues clearing so I made the relocation bracket.

 

[highpsi305]

i dont understand if these brakes are factory on f-bodys they fit 15" welds on the rear of those cars so why wouldnt they fit on ours unles the rotors are larger then stock there should be no problems

 

[Red Regal T]

i dont understand if these brakes are factory on f-bodys they fit 15" welds on the rear of those cars so why wouldnt they fit on ours unles the rotors are larger then stock there should be no problems

LS1 brakes are only on 1998-2002 Camaros. They don't run 15" wheels.

 

[Kin86442]

Hey guys, I started on the LS1 rear brake conversion late last summer and after this weather stops being so fickled, I'm gonna finish the job but one thing I thing I thought I saw wrong on my car is when I bolted the backing plate on and put the axles back on the rotors, the rotors didn't line up right with the backing plate. Did any of you guys have to use like so,e kind of shim or spacer to go between the rear end and back side of the backing plate?

 

[tntdiablo]

to run a 15" wheel with ls1 brakes you will need to grind the caliper,thats what i had to do on a 2002 ws6

 

[bishir]

Was searching for this thread today, and glad I found it! Thanks so much! My only question this: How does it change the track width of the car? My current rims are pretty tight fitting and I don't want to change them.

 

[TKGN1]

Was searching for this thread today, and glad I found it! Thanks so much! My only question this: How does it change the track width of the car? My current rims are pretty tight fitting and I don't want to change them.

Should be very little or no change in offset going from drum to disc. The change will only be the thickness difference between the drum and rotor (where it sits against the hub). If I remember correctly its around 1/16" difference.

 

[Big Mike]

Great post and info! I have a couple question, will this work with c-clip eliminators? I have the fronts read to do and I was always wanting to do the backs at the same time. I still have the working power master and want to to switch to the hydra boost..or vac? I guess a proportion valve is need also.

 

["More Boost"]

either a proportioning valve or just hollow out your existing proportioning valve.

 

[BandAid]

Good info

 

[Instro84]

hollow it out, works perfect i got that info from Baer a while back.

 

[jdpolzin]

Any updates on how you guys are installing your E-Brake cables? I'm doing an LS1 rear brake conversion on my Monte, which I've also done a 6 speed manual conversion on. I'm going to need to use my E-brake.

 

[charlief1]

Just so you have a better idea of all the parts you'll need here's a pic I took of the ones I I got a couple of weeks ago. All these parts are important especially the brake lines and the parking brake bracket. Rotors, caliper mounting brackets, parking brake shoes, calipers and hoses, steel lines off the axle, and the bracket for the parking brake cable and lines. The parking brake cable brackets will need to be cut apart so you have 1 weld on bracket for the steel lines to the brake hose welded on the axle tubes, and the other half will be bolted to the lower con arm bolt for the cable. To adapt the parking brake lever you'll need to cut the end off the original lever for the shoes and match it up to the one for the disc set up and weld them together.

 

[jdpolzin]

I've got everything here. But, I've been reading up on the E Brake and there are conversion brackets people are using that don't require any welding to the housing. I haven't been able to find anything finalized though.

 

[RmvBfrFlght]

I connected the parking brake in a similar fashion as the ElCamino link above. In this picture it is the pieces in the lower left corner.

They are not complete in the picture, they were further reinforced via a tapered piece that was welded from the bent end along the edge past the slots. The brake cable housing is secured in the round hole via the stock clip. The slot was placed over the trailing arm bolt and bolted down, with the small pieces being hooked onto the end of the cable and then over the lever for the park brake.

The slots are for adjustment. I tried to get a picture of it on the car but need to pull the wheel off for that.

The original parking brake cables are stock, no modification was done to them.

RemoveBeforeFlight

 

[jdpolzin]

Did you buy the brackets from someone?

 

[RmvBfrFlght]

I made them.

RemoveBeforeFlight

 

[jdpolzin]

Ok. I wish I had access to the equipment to make them. I have seen similar brackets but nobody offers them from what I have found.

 

[charlief1]

The original F body parking brake cable hold down that attaches to the lower arm bolt can be made into that same basic bracket. No welding required but you do need to do some cutting and drilling to fit in on the lower bolt. I know I posted pics of how I did it in my build thread.