Little leak at alky pump!!!!!

[Buix893]

My car has been sitting for about 6 monthes, and yesterday I put in my battery, and started her up. Car ran perfect, but today I noticed a little bit off what I thought was water on ground, but when I smelled it, it was def Meth.

I took a look at the pump and on the bottom it seems to be were it is coming from. It's not like a big leak, but just barely seeping out. Is this a problem? and can i fix it? I thought maybe the screws were lose. I got the pump about 2 years ago, and probally has under 2K miles on it.

 

[turbo nasty]

You can try to snug..repeat snug those screws a lil. But dont get jungle with the as then screw into plastic and strip easily.

 

[Buix893]

The head is not leaking at all, its the switch I belive. The part to were the wires go into. Can I just take this off and put something on it like permatex???

 

[jasjamz]

If you have that much time to let it sit, take it off send it to Razor, let him repair it. Then for a small fee you will have a clean bill of health. I have the same isssue. Im going to have it repaired and replace it with a new one. Then I get the pump cover(condom:biggrin.

 

[turbo nasty]

The head is not leaking at all, its the switch I belive. The part to were the wires go into. Can I just take this off and put something on it like permatex???

Like I said there is screws that hold the PSI switch to the head and its NOt the head. There is a seperate lil gasket for it.
Honestly if your pump is 2 plus years old i'd send it in for a freshening to be safe either way.

Seriously call Julio and hell tell you whats up. Hes a outstanding individual and truly cares for supporting his product and the TR community

 

[GNRick]

I put a few drops of green food coloring in my meth to see where it was leaking from. Turns out it was the fitting on the end of the braided line going into the pump (line from the meth container). The teflon tape disintegrated after several years (or whatever tape I had used). Try the food coloring to make sure you found the leak, as it may be leaking from higher up and running down the pump.

 

[ttaowner]

mine is also 2 1/2years old (approx) and it leaked from about 3 months old. only drove the car about 4 months blew the tranny then the car sat for over 2 years .just got the car running again in june i always assumed it was my bottle that was leaking but turns out it leaked where the plastic top screws onto the pump. i tried tightening the screws but still leaks. pump leaked before parking the car and leaked after getting it running again. pump still pumps fine but just leaks?? any ideas???

 

[FLYNRYAN87]

I have the same pump and it leak's in the same spot. I took the top off and put silicone on it. it still leaks but it slowed down and it leaks like crazy when the pump is running. So now im just going to send it back to have it repaired i dont want to have a methonal fire.

 

[turbo nasty]

Guys if the pump is leaking send it in. Dont roll the dice with detonating the engine...im just saying

 

[Clark6]

If you have that much time to let it sit, take it off send it to Razor, let him repair it. Then for a small fee you will have a clean bill of health. I have the same isssue. Im going to have it repaired and replace it with a new one. Then I get the pump cover(condom:biggrin.

If you get a pump cover , how will you see it, if it leaks again.??
I leave mine in the open so i can see it myself.. but thats just me.

 

[Razor]

Just an FYI the seal is on the pressure side of the pump meaning that if it's leaking without pressure being present, you should see it leak once the pump makes 100 plus PSI
The head of the pump is soft plastic and strips easily. If you strip the threads it adds cost to the repair. I don't charge to inspect the pump. It just may be a small check valve seal. But that decision needs to be
made with the pump on the bench and pressurized

when something needs repair it needs repair. Jerry riggin a part that can toast your motor is bad

lastly. The pump cover only covers the motor not the head so if it leaks, it will be visible

bet the switch is now bad from methanol running through it as well
but that's anothr issue

 

[ttaowner]

Just an FYI the seal is on the pressure side of the pump meaning that if it's leaking without pressure being present, you should see it leak once the pump makes 100 plus PSI
The head of the pump is soft plastic and strips easily. If you strip the threads it adds cost to the repair. I don't charge to inspect the pump. It just may be a small check valve seal. But that decision needs to be
made with the pump on the bench and pressurized

when something needs repair it needs repair. Jerry riggin a part that can toast your motor is bad

lastly. The pump cover only covers the motor not the head so if it leaks, it will be visible

bet the switch is now bad from methanol running through it as well
but that's anothr issue

.
mine leaks even when not pressurized( not in use) any ideas of cost to repair? i am sure nothing is stripped,
i have 2 of your kits and i love them!!!

pm me if you like on the $$$ to repair estimate. thanks

 

[Razor]

There are three parts needed to do a rebuild. The check valve seal, the valve, and the diaphram.

The check valve seal sits under the switch. Now once that part is changed, the pump is run under pressure and we see if it leaks. If it doesnt.. then let it ride with just the seal kit and thats a 12 dollar part. If it leaks.. then it gets more expensive. Just like if the pump doesnt hold pressure when we shut it off.. then it needs a new valve.

And the switch has now had alcohol dripping through it. So that may need replacement.

All said, typical rebuild to change all those parts is like 80-90 dollars plus the shipping typically 11 USPS Flat Rate. New pumps are 150.00.

Best case 12 dollar seal and 11 for shipping. Worse case 150 plus 11 for shipping.

Between those two it will fall.

The screws on the head dont strip unless someone see's a leak and cranks down on them instead of replacing the seal. Which is the part that has failed.

The seal is made out of santoprene. The diaphram is made out of santoprene. If the seal failed becuase it shrunk due to chemical reaction(example gasoline) then the valve has also has gotten hurt as it is made out of the same material. If the seal tore from flexing up and down.. then a simple seal replacement is all thats needed. If the seal has shrunk/reacted then 99% of the time the diaphram is also hurt and needs replacement.

Without testing the pumps under load/pressure there is no way to properly tell its up and running correctly. Thats why I make the testers so someone at home can DIY and negate having to send the pump in.

HTH

 

[Darkcyde]

There are three parts needed to do a rebuild. The check valve seal, the valve, and the diaphram.

The check valve seal sits under the switch. Now once that part is changed, the pump is run under pressure and we see if it leaks. If it doesnt.. then let it ride with just the seal kit and thats a 12 dollar part. If it leaks.. then it gets more expensive. Just like if the pump doesnt hold pressure when we shut it off.. then it needs a new valve.

And the switch has now had alcohol dripping through it. So that may need replacement.

All said, typical rebuild to change all those parts is like 80-90 dollars plus the shipping typically 11 USPS Flat Rate. New pumps are 150.00.

Best case 12 dollar seal and 11 for shipping. Worse case 150 plus 11 for shipping.

Between those two it will fall.

The screws on the head dont strip unless someone see's a leak and cranks down on them instead of replacing the seal. Which is the part that has failed.

The seal is made out of santoprene. The diaphram is made out of santoprene. If the seal failed becuase it shrunk due to chemical reaction(example gasoline) then the valve has also has gotten hurt as it is made out of the same material. If the seal tore from flexing up and down.. then a simple seal replacement is all thats needed. If the seal has shrunk/reacted then 99% of the time the diaphram is also hurt and needs replacement.

Without testing the pumps under load/pressure there is no way to properly tell its up and running correctly. Thats why I make the testers so someone at home can DIY and negate having to send the pump in.

HTH

now that is service

makes your kits 100% worth every penny Julio