Let's talk engine theory

imjoesnuffy

I just break stuff!
Joined
Sep 13, 2005
May not get much interest in this thread and I did do a search but there are so many extremes in opinions.

I understand that some may not want to share the benefits of their experience, as it has come from years of experience in building engines and is their way of making a living.

Preface:

The reason for me thinking about the things I am asking about, is because I think my engine will probably need a rebuild within the next year. My current engine has been in the car for the past 6 years now, with almost 40K miles on it. To be honest, I flog the everliving pi$$ out of it every time I drive it, usually a lot more than once. On 93 Octane and Alky and at a minimum of 23 psi. I have even had the boost as high as 32 psi on 93 octane and alky. The car still runs like a raped ape, despite popping head gaskets at least three times over the years. The oil pressure is getting lower when hot, dropping as low as 18 psi at idle in 100 degree heat, where it used to be 35 hot. Still 50-60 while cruising. Slowly but surely getting a little more blowby out of the breathers. In other words the engine is starting to get tired. If it split in two tomorrow I could not be dissapointed as it has surely exceeded any and all expectations I have had.

Question #1 For a mostly street driven engine with 7-8 trips to the track a year, how much compression ratio is too much? I realize that many factors have to be considered when making this decision. The desired boost range, cam duration and timing all play a big role in this. I think 9:1 would be safe for an engine that could see as much as 30 psi with a good tune. Or am I being overly optimistic here? Is anything above 9:1 worth the risk or even considering?

Question #2 Timings affect on detonation in regards to CR. The higher the compression ratio, the less timing an engine can take, and the more likely it is to detonate. I know it is all in the tune, but the average guy like me doesn't have the time or money to play with advancing/retarding the cam over and over to find the sweet spot. Is this even something worth considering, and would anyone consider sharing what has worked for them?

Question #3 Cam duration and lift also are a key element in making power in a turbo charged application. These specs determine where the engine makes power at and therefore changes shift points. You just dont see the fastest Turbo Buicks shifting at stock rpm levels. I am thinking in my next build I am going to look for a cam in the 224 range. I already have a roller cam, so for parts its just a matter of choosing the right bumpstick. At what point in duration do you get to a point in diminshing returns for an engine that will not see above 6200 rpm?

Question #4 So basically I am thinking 234ish cubes, 9-9.5:1 CR, somewhere around 224 HR cam (shifting around 6000 rpm), timing: 25 in first, 24 in 2nd and 22 in 3rd gear and 30 psi (My current Alky tune with lower CR for now). Is this doable or do I need to read alot more?
 
For Question 1, it sounds like you may run enough boost where detonation and pre-ignition could break some things. You may want to check into running a J&S Safeguard. It may also help with the head gasket issue, assuming all the variables around the head gasket are in good shape. 9:1 sounds reasonable, 9.5:1 may be reasonable with aluminum heads.

For Question 2, I believe proper timing should be determined by setting it to achieve best torque on a static load dyno while using some type of detonation sensing system (Safeguard will do it, Phormula, or one of the cheap amplifiers out there). After tuning on the dyno, we still need to watch for detonation. Make sure your EGTs stay reasonable also. I'm sure you know this is only part of a proper tune.

For Question 3, does the camshaft manufacturer tell you what the RPM range is? You already have the camshaft issue in mind - also keep in mind ports that move enough air at a high enough velocity, positive pressure from the intake valve to exhaust valve, and keeping the valves under control. I don't know how much duration you need to turn 6200 or higher.

For Question 4, I don't know.

Hope this helps. Please ask if something is unclear.

Paul Lohr
 
Q1. Yo can run 9 to 1 CR on a stock block and you will be fine. The motor will want more fuel at lower rpms because of the increased CR, so make sure you are able to adjust for that with the chip or ECM that you are running.

Q2. I would not try to play with cam timing on the motor. Install it to specs and don't sweat it after that. A 218/218 roller cam will be just fine for what you are doing. As far as rpms go, you don't need to rev up to 7500 rpms you will make max torque at approximately 3000 to 3200 rpms. The rule of thumb with cams on these motors is pretty simple. The higher the duration, the higher max torque occurs in the rpm range. These motors make a ton of torque and rpm at 6000 rpm, we have played with cams in stage blocks over the years spinning them up to 7500so unless you have a full time race car with a massive turbo, you won't need to go that high.

Q3 This kind of blends with Q2 here but a 224 cam may not idle as well and as mentioned above max torque occurs higher. As far as lift goes I have not seen many guys running over 600 lift on a cam. There is not much to be gained there because the turbo is the power adder. A good mod to do on the heads would be the LS1 valve springs. It's less weight, more control and the motor will rev quicker.

Q4 I would suggest getting a forged rotating assembly for the motor no matter which way you go. Most people go with a stroked kit to gain the extra cubes or you can run a stock stroke your choice. Remember though if you increase CR you won't run 30 psi any more. You will be forcing more air in the motor because of the increased CR so you will have to increase fuel at lower rpms to keep the motor from detonating.

Timing will kill a motor. I go conservative on timing until I am sure the fuel is correct on the map and then I might play with timing.

My set up is not far from what you are talking about. I run 20 psi on the street with alky and the car is plenty fast with a 66 turbo. When it cools off I might turn it up some more......:)
 
You need to figure out your exact goal first. Based on your op the cam you are thinking about will not be ideal. Are you looking for the most out of the least? Or are you looking to sacrifice some power for added safety? You will be running it fairly hard if you are planning on 93/alky if you go over 23-24psi.
 
You will be running it fairly hard if you are planning on 93/alky if you go over 23-24psi.

Speaking of running hard, tell me what you think of this datalog. The knock you see is during the burnout and false. I think my engine is relatively low compression. The reason I say that is std trw forged pistons, a 140 block (tall deck or so I have heard here) and felpro 1000 head gaskets. I dont know the actual CR. Thats why I think I can run as much boost as I am on 93 octane and ALKY.

Here are the specifics from this datalog:

60' was 1.67
330' was 4.56
1/8 was 7.02
mph was 100.47
1000 was 9.13
1/4 was 10.93
mph was 124.26

I learned a few things at the track the other night. I am getting 16% slippage in the converter, a 2-3 flare and my rpms aren't dropping enough between shifts.

As far as goal: A streetable engine I can turn the wick up when I go to the track.
 

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Speaking of running hard, tell me what you think of this datalog. The knock you see is during the burnout and false. I think my engine is relatively low compression. The reason I say that is std trw forged pistons, a 140 block (tall deck or so I have heard here) and felpro 1000 head gaskets. I dont know the actual CR. Thats why I think I can run as much boost as I am on 93 octane and ALKY.

Here are the specifics from this datalog:

60' was 1.67
330' was 4.56
1/8 was 7.02
mph was 100.47
1000 was 9.13
1/4 was 10.93
mph was 124.26

I learned a few things at the track the other night. I am getting 16% slippage in the converter, a 2-3 flare and my rpms aren't dropping enough between shifts.

As far as goal: A streetable engine I can turn the wick up when I go to the track.
Youre probably between 7 and 7.5:1
 
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