Hi All just thought I would share my solution to my mysterious knock problems
Hers the scoop
last year car would run great 1 min and then run like crap the next.
Had tons of knock both real and false.
So over the winter out comes the motor and gets rebuilt.
found pass motor mount shot.
Put motor back in with new everthing.
Ran for 50 miles and changed oil cut filter open and found no obvious problems
Ran another 100 changed oil cut filter again no problems.
Turned wick up to 12lbs of boost and guess what 1 min runs great next runs
like crap.with minimal (1* to 2* max)knock and no false knock.
After checking and double checking every vacum line boost hose , wiring connector and so on found no problems .
Reset TPS and IAC about 12 times (actualy only reset them twice the rest they checked good).
Noticed lately that after start up and warm up car started idling like crap so pulled plugs looked brand new (literally)
Then by dumb luck went to start car and noticed volt light not lit up.
Checked volts while running found 11.6 at idle.
Ok been here before pull dash and clean connectors and check bulb
reassemble dash turn key light on now start car now have 14.2 idling.
car has had no problem starting for 5 months no sign of battery drain or alt not charging.
runc car down road and watch turbo link notice voltage all over the place
went as low as 10.9 and high as 14.7
Volt light on dash never lit up during low voltage conditions.
Go to local alt shop get harness with diode and resistor($4.99)
wired up to fan relay power .
Start car 14.5 idling.
Run down the road and voltage never drops below 14.2 volts.car runs great everytime.No more hit or miss.
Morale of story:
The stupid bulb in the dash does not have to light while riding down the road
for the alt not to charge .
these cars are over 20 years old so with that and the road vibrations
the dash can and will loose contact and the alt will loose field voltage and stop charging.THen at the next bump contact restored and alt starts charging again.
We all know these cars need a real good supply of voltage and 12 volt battery is not enough when you drop the hammer by itself.So the alt has to be working for them to run properly..
Just thought I would share :
Just because the volt light on the dash doesnt come on while you are riding around means your alt is actually working. IT MAY NOT BE CHARGING .
I have all the gauges EXCEPT a voltage gauge.(Pillar pod on the way
)
Hope this helps someone.
Hers the scoop
last year car would run great 1 min and then run like crap the next.
Had tons of knock both real and false.
So over the winter out comes the motor and gets rebuilt.
found pass motor mount shot.
Put motor back in with new everthing.
Ran for 50 miles and changed oil cut filter open and found no obvious problems
Ran another 100 changed oil cut filter again no problems.
Turned wick up to 12lbs of boost and guess what 1 min runs great next runs
like crap.with minimal (1* to 2* max)knock and no false knock.
After checking and double checking every vacum line boost hose , wiring connector and so on found no problems .
Reset TPS and IAC about 12 times (actualy only reset them twice the rest they checked good).
Noticed lately that after start up and warm up car started idling like crap so pulled plugs looked brand new (literally)
Then by dumb luck went to start car and noticed volt light not lit up.
Checked volts while running found 11.6 at idle.
Ok been here before pull dash and clean connectors and check bulb
reassemble dash turn key light on now start car now have 14.2 idling.
car has had no problem starting for 5 months no sign of battery drain or alt not charging.
runc car down road and watch turbo link notice voltage all over the place
went as low as 10.9 and high as 14.7
Volt light on dash never lit up during low voltage conditions.
Go to local alt shop get harness with diode and resistor($4.99)
wired up to fan relay power .
Start car 14.5 idling.
Run down the road and voltage never drops below 14.2 volts.car runs great everytime.No more hit or miss.
Morale of story:
The stupid bulb in the dash does not have to light while riding down the road
for the alt not to charge .
these cars are over 20 years old so with that and the road vibrations
the dash can and will loose contact and the alt will loose field voltage and stop charging.THen at the next bump contact restored and alt starts charging again.
We all know these cars need a real good supply of voltage and 12 volt battery is not enough when you drop the hammer by itself.So the alt has to be working for them to run properly..
Just thought I would share :
Just because the volt light on the dash doesnt come on while you are riding around means your alt is actually working. IT MAY NOT BE CHARGING .
I have all the gauges EXCEPT a voltage gauge.(Pillar pod on the way
)Hope this helps someone.
