Knock, Exhaust Leak, Racetronics

[mc71454]

Sounds Like a manifold leak...

I have a knock problem at 10lbs and up..Pretty sure my manifold on the drivers side is cracked (typical right?) I also found out I do not have the hot-wire kit in my car while I do have a 340 Walboro pump. This is the way I bought it.

Bought the Racetronics Hot Wire Kit and got it yesterday, I am really impressed with the quality of the included pieces... :smile: All good parts with no skimping.

How much of a job is it to take the manifold off...unfortunately it will have to wait until I fininsh up my 540 motor for my race car...

Maybe I will just pay someone to fix it, just no time these days.. :frown:

 

[BlackMetal]

Just a quick comment, be careful with the worthless battery nuts that Racetronix includes. Apparently "solid brass battery nut" means if you go a quarter turn past snug, the stud separates from the nut, leaving it stuck in your battery. If you're lucky like me, after it breaks in two, you'll have enough material sticking out from the battery terminal that you can get a pair of pliers on it, remove it, and be able to put the OEM ones back on.

 

[Ormand]

The header might come off easily, but if one or more of the nuts are frozen, then it gets to be MUCH harder. Jack the car up, take off the front wheel on the drivers side. Some of the nuts are easier to get to that way. I took mine off once, no problems, but the last time I tried it, a couple of nuts would not budge. I was afraid I was going to round them off, so I took the car to a shop with air tools. An impact wrench got them loose with no damage. Use some Kroil, or Liquid Wrench, or PB Blaster, let it soak for while to free up the nuts. And rub your rabbit's foot.

 

[Mad_Trbo]

And then use an anti seize compoung when re assembling this should help eliminate the issue with frozen studs.

 

[mc71454]

Thanks for the tips, Much Appreciated !!!

 

[VadersV6]

I sprayed all the bolts on the flange and collector the night before with WD-40. I had a broken right hand and had a cast on it. By just being wise with tool selection, I was able to swap the header....do the whole job with 1 hand (my left hand no less and I'm right handed) in about an hour. Dont bother removing or even loosening the crossover pipe. Just remove the 2 collector bolts and then the rest of them.. The header will drop through the bottom of the car easily, and then drop the new one in through the top. EASY job if you spray all the bolts the night before.
Also, if you know the header is really flat, dont use a gasket. Tack the face of the header and head with grease. Not lithium grease. Just regular wheel bearing grease. When the header gets really hot, the grease will turn to carbon and seal GREAT. Ive put about 30,000 miles on the car since I did it, and no leaks yet. I also used the grease on the collector ball and socket. Also, tighten the bolts starting from the center, outward, and start with the bolts on the bottom. Moderately tighten all the bottom ones, then tighten the top ones, then fully tighten the bottom ones, and then fully tighten the top ones. This will keep from tweaking the header all over the place, which will eventually cause a crack.

 

[mc71454]

Excellent...Thanks !

 

[Squid4life]

I sprayed all the bolts on the flange and collector the night before with WD-40. I had a broken right hand and had a cast on it. By just being wise with tool selection, I was able to swap the header....do the whole job with 1 hand (my left hand no less and I'm right handed) in about an hour. Dont bother removing or even loosening the crossover pipe. Just remove the 2 collector bolts and then the rest of them.. The header will drop through the bottom of the car easily, and then drop the new one in through the top. EASY job if you spray all the bolts the night before.
Also, if you know the header is really flat, dont use a gasket. Tack the face of the header and head with grease. Not lithium grease. Just regular wheel bearing grease. When the header gets really hot, the grease will turn to carbon and seal GREAT. Ive put about 30,000 miles on the car since I did it, and no leaks yet. I also used the grease on the collector ball and socket. Also, tighten the bolts starting from the center, outward, and start with the bolts on the bottom. Moderately tighten all the bottom ones, then tighten the top ones, then fully tighten the bottom ones, and then fully tighten the top ones. This will keep from tweaking the header all over the place, which will eventually cause a crack.

Good info. I definitely learn something new every day!!!