Is my battery toast?

Buix893 said:
Yea Steve Wood is the man....:cool:..but i'm wondering about the solenoid...if it's not that then it HAS to be something with power going to or from the ecm
Click to expand...

I dont know if this will help but i had a problem like that with mine the 12 volt wire going into the computer broke if the service engine soon light does not come on with the key on i would check that wire.
 
Thanks guys I'm gonna try this stuff as mentioned...I have NO service engine light on at all. The car is a conversion car so some things are diffrent. My plugs are soaked so I am guessing it is getting fuel
 
My neg battery wire is grounded to the frame...is that ok? Or does it need to be at the bracket? Also can I run a ground off the bracket to the motor just for insurance?
 
1) Go to Vortex Turbo Buick Performance
2) click on "troubleshooting" on the top left
3) click on "start troubleshooting here" on the top left of the main page
4) notice at the top of the chart it gives you the options of service engine soon light is a) stead light or b) no light (what you described) or c) flashing
5) follow the chart by clicking on the blue link to the left
The chart that comes up is VERY easy to follow. After two weeks of going through what you are doing, I found this link and had my car running in about 30 minutes and I don't know Jack about wiring on cars.
 
Ok, relocated the negative battery terminal to the turbo bracket, it was on the frame before, and while I was at it ran a ground strap from the intake manifold to the firewall...its like 100 degrees out, so i'm sweating like a pig...:biggrin:

Also...I checked the injector harness and it has 12.3 volts being supplied to it and the injectors are all being fed 12.3 volts..I checked the brown wire on each injector and they all had 12.3 volts...so that's good, now onto the ECM to check wiring...:rolleyes:
 
where in central are you? have you tried to contact any of the magna members? most including myself will help for beer :biggrin:
 
HELL YEA.....I JUST got the car running....:eek:...I just ran a new wire to the injector harness, and hit the starter with a hammer and it turned over....:rolleyes:...scanmaster gave me a code 22, and the TPS was at .14, so I changed it to .42 ...car is running rough but at least it starts now

Now onto making it sound better
 
Car is running ruff...blew the ecm/batt fuse and changed it and still runs rough. The TPS changes everytime I start the car, it wont stay at .42 no matter what!!! Last time it was at .14 so i set it to .42..now I start the car and it's at 1.2 so set it to .42 and still makes a wierd noise and idles like $hit
 
Buix893 said:
Car is running ruff...blew the ecm/batt fuse and changed it and still runs rough. The TPS changes everytime I start the car, it wont stay at .42 no matter what!!! Last time it was at .14 so i set it to .42..now I start the car and it's at 1.2 so set it to .42 and still makes a wierd noise and idles like $hit
Click to expand...

You have a short somewhere. Get a wiring diagram and start probing :wink:
 
Personally a test light wouldn't do chit for me if I was trying to diag a TR. I would use a volt meter to see exactly what voltage is doing. Did you take the chip and calpack out and make sure none of the pins are bent?? I wouldn't run it if the batt/ecm fuse keeps blowing. ECM's dont like voltage :wink:.
 
I'm gonna try and see tomm.I put a 15 amp fuse in there and so far so good, so I will see whats up in the morn.
 
The ECM-BATT fuse keeps blowing...I am sure it is a short as what was said above, but can someone tell me the wire that runs to that terminal??
 
Thanks...i'm gonna print em and look em over now. I tested all the fuses in the fuse block and they check out ok with correct voltage. The ECM-BATT fuse blew twice..although it reads 12.3 volts. The orange wire also reads 12.3 volts, so the search continues. I also installed a crank sensor and its making noise??? I checked it and looks fine, gapped at .025...:confused:
 
The crank sensor touches nothing and has no moving parts. If it's making noise something is wrong.

I'm going to be the 3rd person to say go visit the MAGNA board. If you want help in person, that's the place to go.
 
My buddy is gonna stop by this week and he had a T-type so lets pray...lol

Tested the connections on the ECM and all checked out good via the links. The two ECM wires are grounded, and 12 volts are going to it. Started it up and it started to gradually idle higher and higher...hit 1400 rpm then I killed it.

Is there a short tester that's avaliable? cause that would be great instead of this $hit
 
About Time......the car runs so much better now....I checked the voltage at the ECM pins and made sure they were tight, then adjusted the crank sensor a bit, then I removed the factory 'valet' alarm system box and she started up and sounded GREAT.....:D

Only problem is when I put the key into the ignition the "SES" light blinks for a second then goes away??? Also when I start the car it is on all the time. Scan Master shows no codes, so wonder what it is:confused:
 
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