Is my battery toast?

B

Buix893

Buick = $$$
Joined
Jul 2, 2009
Just installed the fuse link relocation kit from Caspers and I must say that this kit rocks!! And makes life soooo much easier when screwing with fuse links....

My question is that when I go to start my car it starts for a brief second and then dies. The car battery was hooked up to my jeep for like 15 min and when I removed the cables the battery has like no power, it would hardly crank.

Car has brand new:
Fuse Links
Ignition/Coil
Ignition Switch
ECM
Spark plugs/Wires
Crank Sensor
 
Take a multi meter and hook up to the battery. Have someone crank over the engine while you read the voltage. If your voltage drops dramatically, down to 9v let's say, then the battery is burnt toast.:mad: Good luck.
 
Take it to a autoparts store, they will test it, charge and test it, should take about 30mins to hour. Did you kept up with the water levels inside? I found out the hard way, burnt my battery up quick, over time of course. IF not, try leaving the battery charging for more then 15mins.
 
Well I hooked up my battery to my charger for a few hours to charge it to full and the battery is holding the charge fine....:rolleyes:...the car just cranks though???? Got fuel and spark...just turns and turns....:mad:

I replaced everything that was mentioned above and this POS still won't run. It's been 2 and half months of this crap and I can;t afford it anymore...these cars are very very unforgiving...but we all know that...:p....I wish someone could lend me a hand in the area that would be awesome
 
Is any one in central NJ??? I'm dying to get this running and my young experience has run out...:biggrin:...

I will pay someone to get my car running or beer...:biggrin:... Are there any shops around central NJ that work on these cars??? Its something stupid and electrical on my car, Car ran perfect a few weeks ago so maybe I am not seeing something
 
How did you verify spark? How did you verify fuel? What voltage is the battery holding?
 
Well I have a spark tester and had my brother crank the car on all 6 plugs and it checked out. Also my fuel press is at a steady 43psi and the plugs are kinda soaked in gas from cranking it so I am guessing it is getting fuel

Battery on SM says 12.4 when I go to start it with key in
 
You might have a crapped out alternator,might luck out to be a fuse or connetion somewhere. I would guess alternator, battery has power,got fuel,got spark, cranks but doesn't stay, I would say alternator.
Check your connections on your alternator or take it off and get it checked out at an autoparts store. They will bench test it for free.
 
The alternator is like a year old...but i got a good used stocker in the shed so maybe I should just swap it out and try
 
Buix893 said:
Car has brand new:
Fuse Links
Ignition/Coil
Ignition Switch
ECM
Spark plugs/Wires
Crank Sensor
Click to expand...

:eek: and it still does'nt run. STOP THROWING PARTS AT IT :wink:


The alt is not the problem, with a decent battery a car will run for awhile without a alt. What are the rest of your scanmaster readings? Did you leave a sensor or wire disconnected, got good grounds? Make sure your chip and calpack prongs are seated right. Better get the volt meter warmed up :biggrin:
 
I'm gonna re-check the car today for anything out of the ordinary. I have a test light so should I test all the fuses for power? Also what should I check with the volt meter?
 
Buix893 said:
Just installed the fuse link relocation kit from Caspers and I must say that this kit rocks!! And makes life soooo much easier when screwing with fuse links....

My question is that when I go to start my car it starts for a brief second and then dies. The car battery was hooked up to my jeep for like 15 min and when I removed the cables the battery has like no power, it would hardly crank.

Car has brand new:
Fuse Links
Ignition/Coil
Ignition Switch
ECM
Spark plugs/Wires
Crank Sensor
Click to expand...

Was the car running good before you started replacing these parts? Did you do the work yourself and did you do them all at the same time?

I'm just curious as to when this problem started happening.
 
To make a long story short I was installing a manual switch for my fan and when I touched the 12V ignition wire (turns on fan when car starts) to the harness pigtail on the fan it sparked and the car acted up ever since, so whatever caused this problem was done by the fan. I have had my cars fan hooked up for 3 years this way and raced tons of times with no problems but must have messed something up with that spark

I replaced almost electrical so maybe cam sensor???
 
If the car has spark and fuel then why no start???? It will crank like its gonna start but just cranks and cranks. You can hear the car just about to start and then nothing. This is something for a pro as I have been 2 months at it with no results.....:frown:
 
Buix893 said:
If the car has spark and fuel then why no start???? It will crank like its gonna start but just cranks and cranks. You can hear the car just about to start and then nothing. This is something for a pro as I have been 2 months at it with no results.....:frown:
Click to expand...

It sounds like you may have shorted out a wire or component somewhere and in that case unless you're good at electrical troubleshooting you are going to need an electrician to locate and fix it.

I had an idiot nephew short out my car once with a stethoscope while trying to locate a noise in the engine,and i had to get an electrician friend of mine to help me find the problem and we just about traced every wire back to the ecm until we found the ignition module was what got damaged.

Save yourself some grief and get an electrician to fix your car so you can enjoy it again.
 
Yea that the path Ima have to go....should the selenoid have power at all time or just when the key is in? Cause I checked the starter with a test light and the big lug has power but not the selenoid. Not sure if it should have power all the time
 
Yea Steve Wood is the man....:cool:..but i'm wondering about the solenoid...if it's not that then it HAS to be something with power going to or from the ecm
 
Check the 12 volt common wires going to the injectors, a bad connection from a Caspers harness to the stock injector harness plug caused us to have the same problem. We only had 10 volts at the injectors and only 8 when cranking.
Worth a shot.....
 
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