Introduction into the GN world: What to look for when buying

[Wardlaw]

Well, I'm looking into getting my hands on my first GN for my next project I've loved these cars since a buddy had one back in highschool.

I was wondering if I could get some input as to what to look for in these cars when purchasing. Indications of problems, areas prone to rust, chassis/frame issues, etc. Things beyond the obvious that only people who have had these cars would really know to look for. I'm not too concerned about mechanical issues as the engine/trans will be....well... coming out for a single turbo LSX and a tranny to be named later. (I hope I don't upset people on here with only my 2nd post!)

I am only considering hardtop 86-87 Grand Nationals or possible the right T-Type. Not real interested in a lot of power options (seats, locks, etc)

Intentions for the car will be 50% street and 40% track (Drag) and 10% show.

I'm basically want to do a full resto on one, do things "my" way, but I want to start with a very nice low milage (southern if possible) car.

Thanks in advance for any help!

 

[sugarandopium]

Welcome.

this is my first buick, but have had a few gbodys in the past.

The Turbo Regal Buyer's Guide
kirban also has a book on the subject.

i was in the same predicament as you last year...
was looking for an 86-7 hardtop, rust free, stock, low mile
to start with and do myway.
it took me 8 months to find the right car, so my best advice:
dont be in a rush, take your time, look at many cars, avoid impulse buys.
don't be tempted by a nice ttop car.

hard top is a little easier for rust problems.
door area, trunk area, floor pans, very prone.
very VERY hard to find a rust free gbody these days.
bring a good flashlight check everywhere and under the car.
rule of thumb on buicks, whatever rust is visible, count on at least 3 times that hiding.

late build 87s are highly optioned.
86s and early 87s are widely varied.

silly little things like drivers seat/steering wheel/brake pedal pad wear
is good for checking if a well taken care of car has rolled over on miles
if low miles is a big issue.

i just woke up, can prob offer more advice from my 8months shopping after a pot of coffee.
youll get alot of replies from people who are true experts on these cars.
just be sure to take your time and find the right car.

 

[notacarlo]

If you find a GN specifically look for the RPO code decal on the bottom of the decklid.

It should read WE2 for a GN
It would be nice to see G80 for the rear end


In my opinion, T's are just as appealing and just as fast, in fact they are ever so slightly lighter.

Turbo's are $450 to $1600, so I would pull off the MAF hose and grab the compressor nut. Try to wiggle it, left/right, up/down, in/out. There should not be any rubbing or much movement at all.

When you are under the car, look at the inspection shield between the tranny and motor. Note if there is any abnormal amount of oil here as it hides the rear main seal - which is no big deal. BUT if it was excessively wet down there I would be a little concerned.

See if there are any maintenance records as you are inheriting someone elses issues...if there were any.

There's going to be a little dash pad warpage, possibly separation between the window sill plate and the console pad. Unless it was garaged.

If there are any modifications to the car, see if the owner has any of the original parts....you will want those.

Other than that (and whatever others have to add) make sure the body is straight, tires good.

One more thing. Take a look at the control arm bushings up front, then look at the trailing arm bushings in the rear. Those aren't fun to replace, and if you have someone else do it- i'ts not cheap.

 

[sd-slider]

There is some really good reading here......

Turbo Regal Buyers Guide - Online!

And a bunch of other REALLY helpful info.

=Eric

 

[turbo39151]

Why spend the bucks on a GN if you're gonna use a different powerplant? Doesn't make any sense. Just buy a regular n/a regal and slap on the turbo hood if that's the look you want. I think a GN roller or GN will be more expensive than a regular regal. Just my .02 BTW, avoid rust- it's more trouble than it's worth.

Good Luck

 

[Wardlaw]

Thanks a ton for the input fellas. Good stuff.

 

[Wardlaw]

Why spend the bucks on a GN if you're gonna use a different powerplant? Doesn't make any sense. Just buy a regular n/a regal and slap on the turbo hood if that's the look you want. I think a GN roller or GN will be more expensive than a regular regal. Just my .02 BTW, avoid rust- it's more trouble than it's worth.Good Luck

Thanks for the reply.I realize I could save money by buying standard G-body of that year but I want a real Grand National. I don't plan to hack on it or cut it up. I'll keep the original engine/trans for a later when/if I put the car back to stock.

 

[notacarlo]

Keep in mind you may not get much love here for removing one of these cars from service. Regardless if it's a GN body, without the Motorsport guts....Be prepared.

 

[Wardlaw]

In my opinion, T's are just as appealing and just as fast, in fact they are ever so slightly lighter.

I have seen some really cool T's I wouldn't mind owning. If the right one came around, I would go that route.

Weight will deefinately be addressed either way. No cutting though!

 

[Wardlaw]

Keep in mind you may not get much love here for removing one of these cars from service. Regardless if it's a GN body, without the Motorsport guts....Be prepared.

And I totally understand. If someone told me they were gonna put a Ford motor in an LSX car, I'd be the first to wish him burning genital warts.

I've been an LS drag racer since '02. I already have the motor, trans, parts, tools and knowledge of the platform. It just makes it a little more economical for me to run the ET's I'm shooting for.

I think the 80's black G-bodies were/are the baddest looking cars GM ever built. Now i'm just putting the best internal combustion engine ever conceived (with a little help from a turbo) into the right body! :biggrin:

I will say that if I could come across a car that has the motor to run the numbers I want while fitting into my budget, I'd stick with the Buick power no problem.

No disrespect guys!

 

["Turbo-T"]

If you're going to drop an LSX into a GN, you might as well just save yourself the $$$ and instead buy a plain jane Regal for far less, then chuck the n/a V6/307 for your LSX. Not saying this because to keep you from desecrating a real GN but a plain jane Regal can be had for far less.

Then if you wanted to, you could paint it black and put in a GN interior...you'd have a clone but if you did it right not many would be able to tell the difference and you'd save money doing it.

You could do a real GN but you're going to end up paying more for it and you're not keeping it original V6 anyways so essentially you'll just have another bastardized car. In short you'll have more invested in "just the name".

I sold a solid 1 owner n/a Regal for $2k when I lived in NC, car needed paint and some interior but was bone stock with factory paint/interior/carbed V6 engine....had zero rot and only a slight amount of surface rust (was a FL car until 2006) so that gives you an idea of how much to pay for one.

But a common area for rust is on the rear frame rails, check for rot there.