in-line check valve
- Thread starter suburban
- Start date
DMan
buh bye
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
I just bought this one..haven't tried it yet but it seems to be rated for the service..
http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/pr...Series+426+PVC+Check+Valves+For+Air+or+Liquid
It was the one with the 3/8" barb connection on both ends. Like $5.
http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/pr...Series+426+PVC+Check+Valves+For+Air+or+Liquid
It was the one with the 3/8" barb connection on both ends. Like $5.
you can get it cheaper some else but check out the web site ...alot of add on for water injection www.snowperformance.net
TR Custom Parts
Mark Hueffman - Owner
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
I used a NOS alky solenoid, pricey but didn't have any luck with check valves. I spray into the outlet neck of the intercooler so the nozzle is lower than my tank and was having a siphoning problem. Not any longer. Just tied the wiring into the pump, when the pump comes on the solenoid opens.
DMAN, is this the check valve you are using in a 3/8" tube size? Will it hold up to alchy?
Liquid/Gas Check Valves
Polypropylene and Kynar® housing with Viton® diaphragm. Will work with vacuum between 2 and 29 in. Hg. and pressures from 1 psi up to 150psi.
paul
Liquid/Gas Check Valves
Polypropylene and Kynar® housing with Viton® diaphragm. Will work with vacuum between 2 and 29 in. Hg. and pressures from 1 psi up to 150psi.
paul
DMan
buh bye
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
Hey Paul,
My mistake - I thought the link would take you right to the valves I was looking at. You want the Series 426 PVC checkvalves with stainless ball and spring. Its got a 3/8 inch barb.
To be perfectly honest, I just ordered those checks and have them on my bench. I have not installed them or tried them yet, so I don't have any real world experience to share. In discussions with the USPlastics sales engineer, they sounded as good or better than the check valve I'm replacing (got that from Carrolls Supercharging). 140 psi working pressure.
The Carrolls check valve lasted since I first started alky (4 years now), and worked fine, only it split at the seams after I shorted my Shurflo pressure switch
As for these new USPlastic jobs, the 426 series, they are beefy, and the stainless innards make me confident they will hold up to the methanol I'm using.
HTH
My mistake - I thought the link would take you right to the valves I was looking at. You want the Series 426 PVC checkvalves with stainless ball and spring. Its got a 3/8 inch barb.
To be perfectly honest, I just ordered those checks and have them on my bench. I have not installed them or tried them yet, so I don't have any real world experience to share. In discussions with the USPlastics sales engineer, they sounded as good or better than the check valve I'm replacing (got that from Carrolls Supercharging). 140 psi working pressure.
The Carrolls check valve lasted since I first started alky (4 years now), and worked fine, only it split at the seams after I shorted my Shurflo pressure switch
As for these new USPlastic jobs, the 426 series, they are beefy, and the stainless innards make me confident they will hold up to the methanol I'm using.
HTH
DMan
buh bye
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
My check valve is installed on the HIGH side of the pump, between my pump and the nozzles..however, I am also using a solenoid valve in the line. So its like this: pump > check valve > solenoid valve > nozzles. The solenoid effectively eliminates any alcohol suction under vacuum conditions since it is triggered simultaneously with the pump. The reason for the check valve is because my pump and tank are in my trunk, it takes some time to build up pressure at the nozzles 18 feet away under the hood..so having the check valve ensures I always have 130+ psi of water/alky in the short length of line between the check and the solenoid (the solenoid is very close to the nozzles). That way I get instant response when I nail the throttle.
