I did a thing...

Update #3.

Since we last reported in, I've checked a few tasks off the list. We have tunes! I mean, you gotta have tunes in your time machine right?

Parts list: Pioneer DEH-X7800BHS CD HD radio receiver, Kicker 43DSC3504 3.5" dash speakers, Kicker 43CSC54 5 1/4" door speakers, Cerwin Vega XED693 6x9 3 way speakers rear with Metra 72-4500 wiring adapters and American International 4x10 to 6x9 adapters. I wanted a CD player, with an HD radio and the ability to stream music via Pandora and my phone. All of my research pointed me towards this Pioneer, which I've always been a fan of. And I am more than happy with this choice. Synching to my phone was easy, streaming Pandora and saved music, also easy and setup was very intuitive once you figure it out. With only 22 watts rms per channel, you wouldn't think it would be enough, but I'm here to tell you, this setup flat out rocks, once I got the settings just right. I am seriously impressed with this setup for what it is. So the tunes mission was accomplished. My custom front license plate came in from Forever Signs of Scottsdale and it looks fantastic! I relocated the Scanmaster to a Kirban steering column mount and then proceeded to clean the old velcro glue from the radio dash surround where it once lived. After wasting 30 minutes with Simple Green, I broke out the hard stuff. Goo Be Gone. Yep, Goo was gone in only 5 mins. Should have started with that first, ah well, lesson learned. I went over to my buddy Shawn's shop and we proceeded to angle grind / cut the turbo heatshield that I got from my buddy Don, paint it, then install it. That turned out perfect. I'm waiting on my plug wires to show up before snapping some more underhood shots though.

Ok, fast forward to this past Sat, I forced Legend to go with me to the tire store for Mission #2. Traction. Even though we had a freak snow event that dumped 6 inches of snow in fricking central MS the day before and it was barely 36*, he understood what was up. Originally I had thought about going with Hoosier QTP 27", but the more I thought about it, the more these dang Aluma Stars made me second guess myself. Because of the 4" back space on these 15x8's, my tire size needed to be perfect, especially if I wanted to keep the wheel wells un-rolled and trim rings un-touched. It already had BFG 255/60R-15 Radial T/A's, which spec'd out right at 27" tall and almost 9" wide. This told me that I needed to stay at the 9" wide width and could go up to 28" tall with my air bags. As luck would have it, my Jedi training told me I had better hold onto my old Moroso DS-2 28x4.5" front runner tires, that I used on my last Blue T. Something in the back of my mind kept telling me I would have a use for them someday. After cleaning them up and inspecting them, they were in perfect condition. This was my deciding factor on the tire choice. I said heck, if you're gonna be a bear, be a Grizzly! I hit up Jegs for some M/T ET Street R bias ply 28x11.5-15 tires. Specs? 28x9 on a 15x8 wheel.

After he finally warmed up and quit being grumpy, we set out to plot a course to the tire store on this brisk and icy morning. Having to avoid all the road blocks that local PD and SO had put up, because our President was visiting Jackson for a museum opening, and dodging all the melted/black ice on the bridges, we finally made it. After all of the guys took their pics and bombed me with a million questions, we got the task done in a little over an hour. I will admit, I was worried a bit when we lowered the car onto the new shoes. Fronts were a no brainer, BTDT on all 3 previous cars, but the back was what had me worried. The previous owner had one wheel spacer on the drivers side rear and nothing on the passengers side. The upper control arms were replaced with Jegs non adjustable uppers with poly bushings and the lowers had been boxed with new stock bushings. He replaced all of the lower body bushings as well, so I was hoping that the body and rear end would be as close to centered as possible. My fears vanished after checking things out and we were good to go. Needless to say, the guys at the shop wouldn't let me leave without a mandatory burnout, so I obliged. While purging the alky I didn't think he had it in him, but 25psi proved otherwise and he left a nice long patch. Turning out onto the hwy, I foot braked him up to about 3psi and let'er rip tator chip! No spin, no drama, just the front end rising up, hooked up and hauling ass!
Legend lived up to his reputation this day.

Mission #2, Traction, accomplished.

So, now I just need to swap out the plugs for some trusty Autolite #23's, get the new plug wires installed once they come in, install my RJC ADPP and a turbo oil drain gasket. (it's leaking, looks like it was installed dry) I'm hoping it's the gasket, and not a kinked / torn factory oil drain tube. BTDT as well. Sigh... Those and clean him up again.

Next small items will be corner lamps, do something to the factory power antenna as it's stuck up and DOA, then a few more odds and end small parts before deciding on the power parts / combo. I know where I want it to be and what it's going to take to get there, but I also know the consequences for that goal. I still plan on keeping this a fun car and not going crazy again. But man, this case of GoFastitis is rough! Ok, enough jibber jabber. Here's a few pics.

Thanks for reading chapter 3.

-Patrick-

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Glad to see you back in a TR! It seems to have the stance your other cars had as well!
 
Update #4.

Since I last reported in, I have done a few more small things to Legend.
A mandatory item for the stock intake to me, has always been an RJC ADPP power plate. And here is where it gets good.
I headed over to my buddy Shawn's shop for the install and we found a couple of interesting things. When pulling the stock plenum, I found that it was fully ported. This got my immediate attention. I also noted that the intake was port matched to the heads as well. Score! Ok now, if the intake ports are ported to the heads..... Does this thing have fricking ported iron heads on it? Hmmmm.... After getting the ADPP installed, and cutting and painting the factory heat shield to clear the 3" downpipe, it too went on the car. Shout out to my buddy Don Mudrich for hooking me up with the factory heat shield and question mark bracket. Thanks again Don. Things were finally starting to look decent underhood. Only thing left, was the set of Kirban's grey HD plug wires, and ditching those obnoxious red MSD wires. Fast forward too 2 weeks later and the plug wires showed up in the mail. I went with Taylor black wire separators to compliment the grey and silver underhood theme. I was really surprised at how smooth the idle was and the snappiness when revving that just a plug wire change had made. It really blew me away at the before and after difference. Test driving the car, it accelerated better and really pulled hard.

I talked to the previous owner recently, and he confirmed that the car did in fact have ported iron heads with ARP head studs on it when he got it. As well as a 3400 Art Carr L/U converter. WOOOOHOOOO!!! That perfectly explains the state of tune for the boost/fuel/alky amount, and the spool up characteristics that I was seeing. Why was it showing the numbers it was, with a stock engine and a TE-44 at 24psi? Why was it spooling like a light switch? Because it has a ported intake, ported iron heads and a decent converter that's why. Oh boy! Not it's time to play! So, with that bit a useful information, it has led me to my next goal.

Let's make some power!

Currently I am waiting on a new 3" SS downpipe with 46mm external wastegate and a 3" test pipe to replace my internal 3" dp. This past Friday I got my pneumatic push to connect fittings and bleeder valve. On my previous cars, I have run bleeder valves inside the car for boost control, and an RJC boost control valve on my last Blue T "Sarah". This new combo, will be an external wastegate and the boost control valve underhood. The next immediate items will be an RJC Rear Motor Brace and an RJC billet crank pulley. Then a volt booster, 60#ers with a matching TT alky chip, and then, decide on which turbo to go with. I have two picked out that I know will get the job done, I just gotta decide on which one to go with.

In the meantime, here are some recent pics of my progress.
2018 is going to be a fantastic year for me and Legend.
Stay tuned and thanks for reading everyone.
Happy New Year!

-Patrick-

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Looks real nice. Glad to see you back.
 
Update #5

Santa brought a few things down the chimney, errr through the front door recently. These items are some that were on my main list of stuff to change when I first got the car. Namely, the downpipe and getting rid of the blacked out marker lenses. The work started by removing the 3" TH style downpipe, 3" dump pipe and the HD wastegate actuator. Things were going smoothly after removing the 3" dump pipe. That was until I got to the dreaded downpipe bolts. After removing the top 3, the one on the bottom started to come out but suddenly froze. One thing I mentioned to my buddy was, that whenever you do any work on your Buick, you must listen to 80's hair band music. Or else the car will get pissed and not co-operate. So, instead of doing the cave man method of cutting, blasting, vice-gripping it out, I stopped and thought about it for a minute or three. I went and turned on the 80's hair band music, PB Blaster'ed the bottom bolt and let it set in. I re-installed the other 3 bolts and snugged them up. My theory was, by taking the other 3 completely out, it put the last bolt in a bind, because the pipe was now tilted and putting a lot of pressure on the bottom bolt. I thought by putting the others back in hand tight, flushing the dp back to the turbine housing that maybe, just maybe the bottom one would come out. After about 3 minutes of letting the PB Blaster set in, I took the 6mm bit and box end wrench and started removing that bottom bolt first. Turn after turn and it was looking good. After sweating bullets for a bit, it came out without any drama. No messed up threads, nothing. YAY! I then removed the other 3 and success! The downpipe swiveled out no problem. Next was knocking down the dreaded floorpan/firewall seam that gives you fits when pulling the trans and the spot where the dowpipe can hit. We "carefully" lol, massaged it out of the way, then sprayed it with some black high temp paint to protect it from rusting. After that, I removed the wastegate actuator, put some grade 8 washers on the 3 bolts that bolt the compressor cover on, removed the RJC boost controller, swiveled the new 3" downpipe in place, put the new dp gasket on dry, used some anti-seeze on the new bolts and tightened them up. From there we had to swedge open the test pipe a bit to get it on. Installed the SS band clamp, connected the exhaust and tightened everything up. All in all, this was not a bad install. Thankfully, the previous owner had used anti-seeze on all the critical bolts. We took our time and got the swap done in just under 2 hours. My buddy had to leave, so I had the shop to myself for the rest of the night. I'd like to thank my buddy Shawn Medders for all of his help and for the use of his shop with all of my car related shenanigans.

Next, I needed to decide where to put the boost control valve. Originally I had wanted to mount it between the MAP sensor and the alky tank, but with the way these fittings are and worrying about the hood possibly hitting the valve, I had to find another place to put it. I thought about how the tubing is routed and found a perfect spot that just made sense. Plus not having to drill any holes in sheet metal was a bonus. Now for the nylon tubing part. I originally wanted to re-use the port on the turbo as the boost reference feed for the valve, but it just didn't make sense, or look right to have multiple lines running all over the place up front. And, there was an un-used port on passengers side back of the vacuum block just begging to be put in the game. So I used a 1/8" npt plug on the compressor cover hole. I used a straight 1/8" npt to 1/4" nylon tube pneumatic fitting on the back vacuum block port. A 90* swivel pneumatic fitting was originally planned, but would not tighten up on the back port due to hitting the t-body nut. Thankfully I ordered some 90* 1/4" tube pneumatic elbow fittings for just such an issue. Cutting a small piece of nylon tubing spaced out the fitting just enough to clear the t-body nut and I was able to route the nylon tubing in the same direction as the others. Deciding on where and how to mount the valve and run the tubing took the longest time, but I think it was well worth it. I am very happy with the results. Everything flows nice and neat and I think it looks great.

Next was installing the Autometer fuel pressure gauge and mounting cup. Over the years, I have seen many ways of remotely mounting a fp gauge under the hood, but I have always liked this one spot. You see, over by the power steering reservoir mounting bracket, there is a stud with a nut that bolts it to the drivers side wheel well liner. In the past I have used this stud/nut for remotely mounting my fp gauge and facing the gauge forward. This way when you pop the hood, you have a fp gauge facing you. I have learned that both Autometer and generic brand gauge cups mounting bracket hole, needs to be enlarged for this stud to work. A drill and drill bit makes quick work of this problem. So I got the gauge mounted and positioned, but unfortunately my 180* fitting for the fuel rail didn't show up in time for this round of upgrades. (It was in the mail when I got home later that night. Figures right? Sigh...) So now all I have to do is cut the hose to length, install the 180* fitting, hook it to the rail, and route the hose around to the gauge and hook it up. I will post up some pics of that later this weekend when the weather breaks.

My last task of the night was setting the boost with this new setup. This would be a make or break test. With the supplied 8# spring, I was hoping I could see 24-25psi with this new setup. So with the valve completely closed, I used my best "Jedi" guess and tightened / opened the valve to the point where I thought / hoped, it would be close. The other thing I had hoped for, was slightly quicker spoolup. By virtue of replacing the downpipe and dump pipe. In the past, I have absolutely seen a difference going from stock style internal wastegate downpipe and dump pipe to an external wastegate downpipe and straight test pipe. IE: no more exhaust slamming into the closed dump pipe on it's way out.

So with a full tank of 93, 1 can of VP Octanium octane booster and the alky kit purged, I went for it. I thought to myself, one of three things was about to happen.
1. It was either going to over boost and I'd quickly let out. Hoping not to blow a head gasket.
2. Boost would be too low and I'd have to crank the valve more.
3. Boost was perfect and it was hauling ass.

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3.

It hauled ass with perfect, rock steady boost.
So, foot braking up to 5psi, on cold bias ply tires set at 25psi, it roasted them for a solid 40-50ft before finally hooking up. As I suspected, it did have some KR from the spinning, so I decided to try a second slightly softer launch. Foot braked to 1psi and let it rip. This time, just some slight spinning for about 10ft and it hooked. SM readings were good and showed .835 and zero KR, on 24psi with 24* timing WOT. Spool up is way, way, way faster now. It will go from 1-24 in less than a second, which is freaky compared to what I've had in the past. This test tells me, that with 10-11psi in the tires and a good water burnout, it should hook up nicely. I am very impressed with this downpipe, wastegate and test pipe from GN1 Performance. My hats off to Archie and crew.Thank you guys.

I also swapped out the marker lights last night after work and they made a huge difference in appearance. I can't wait for the weather to clear so I can clean up the car and snap a few more pics. I got them from Highway Stars. Excellent replacements.

I am sorta on the fence about exhaust, but that will be next on the list, followed closely by a turbo, injector, chip, 4" MAF pipe and 4" CAI kit.
Anywho, thanks for reading and here are the pics.

-Patrick-

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Awesome write up man! Welcome back!! And keep adding to the post, especially curious as to which exhaust system you go with??

Thanks!! And congrats on the car as well, very nice!!!
 
Update #6.

Welp, it's been a minute since my last update, but things are coming together nicely.
I've made some decent upgrades and changes since the last installment. All of them have been on the list since day one. I think for this chapter, I will start with what parts I removed first and what parts took their place.

Removed:

- TE-44 turbo
- 3" MAF pipe
- 50# Delphi injectors
- Caspers adjustable Ultrachip
- Stock t-body and ported stock upper plenum
- RJC "ADPP" power plate for stock plenum
- Factory belt tensioner
- Unknown serpentine belt that needed replacement

Installed:

- Precision PT6766 billet CEA, journal bearing turbo, with Ported S cover and .63 A/R turbine housing
- SCE 3-bolt copper inlet gasket from Jegs
- 4" MAF pipe and Cold Air kit from GN1 Performance
- v5.7 alky chip from Eric at TurboTweak
- 80# Siemens Bendix flow matched injectors from TurboTweak
- Accufab 70mm t-body and Precision cast finish 70mm upper plenum from Hartline Performance
- IAC angle plate from GN1 Performance
- RJC "ADPPP" power plate for PTE upper plenum
- Stock replacement belt tensioner
- Gates serpentine belt
- Caspers V-Bolt Volt Booster
- Various pieces of 4" OD polished aluminum tubing, hoses and t-bolt clamps (waiting to finish up when the rain stops)

I had previously installed the Caspers V-Bolt volt booster a few weeks ago after scoring it from a fellow board member, so that was easy. The tear down took two solid days, weekend before last and dodging periods of rain. Thankfully, everything went smoothly with the R&R of parts. First I ported and contoured the wastegate hole on the new turbine housing with a die grinder, carbide cutter bit and sand paper flapper bits. Next was the downpipe, turbo and MAF pipe were removed and replaced. Followed by the t-body, plenum & power plate assembly. I used Permatex high temp copper rtv on all of the gaskets, both turbo inlet, oil drain and the intake plenum sandwich. (intake surface, gasket, powerplate, gasket, upper plenum) I also was forced to use rtv on the vacuum block, because Accufab forgot to include a vacuum block gasket with their t-body. For years, they included both the t-body and vacuum block gaskets with their t-body. Oh well, it's an easy fix. I also removed the brass hose barb fittings that come with the Accufab t-body, and plugged the holes with hex head allen plugs for a cleaner look. The IAC angle plate went on without any issues and give plenty of clearance with the 4" MAF pipe. Next was setting the TPS. Even though I had a feeling, I might have to reset it once I see how the idle and cranking plays out. On the turbo, I used rtv on both sides of the SCE copper gasket and tightened the nuts down firmly to help crush the gasket. I also used a second set of nuts on the studs to keep them from coming loose over time. Which I have had happen in the past. This double nut method works great, vs having to use any lock washers.

Next was the injector swap. The only uh oh moment, was dropping one of the bolts on the top of the intake. Using a magnet solved that snafu. That extendable magnet has saved my bacon many times over the years, and this is something that I was fully expecting to happen. And it did....
Moving forward, everything was ready for final assembly, unfortunately one item wound up biting me in the rear. And that was a freaking hose. Yep, I had forgot, that when you do this specific combo, you gotta have a longer than normal 3" silicone hose to go on the intercooler pipe to t-body. When I was ordering my parts, I had ordered a 3" long 3" hose with clamps, but I didn't remember that it needed to be longer. So yep, I was stuck playing the hurry up and wait game. But never fear, ebay to the rescue. And $11.00 later, I had an 8" long piece of 4 ply 3" hose enroute. Just so everyone knows, you can't beat ebay prices for silicone hose. So, fast forward to this past Friday and the hose shows up. Unfortunately, it's raining it's butt off so it would have to wait until Saturday. The next day, "I measured 3 times and cut once", installed the hose and clamps and was ready to start him up. So, I took the downpipe came off the car on tear down, that means the exhaust still needs to be re-connected, but.... with that being the next item on the list to replace, I left it disconnected for this initial start up.

That nervous feeling always happens when it's time for that first start up. Especially after changing out a lot of parts. And I'm not ashamed to say, I was a little nervous for a minute. I cycled the key to prime the fuel rail and checked for leaks. No leaks so I hit the key. He sputtered a couple of times, but would not start. Yep, just as I suspected when initially setting the TPS. I broke out the 90* philips head screw driver wrench and cracked open the idle bleed air set screw a couple of half turns. Re-checked the TPS and it was at .50. Backing that down to .44, I was ready to try it again. This time he fired right up. YES! But the idle was a little too high for my tastes at 1125, so I backed it down just a bit to 875-900. Shut it down and reset and rechecked the TPS. It was .42 at idle and 4.72 WOT. Perfect. Fired it back up and checked for leaks. The previous noise was gone from the loud and clicking stock belt tensioner and the engine was purring away, albeit loud from being un-exhausted. So I made a quick video. Man oh man, Eric really has this chip perfected for these 80#ers. FANTASTIC!

https://www.facebook.com/patrick.ru...8326879668246/938325226335078/?type=3&theater

The next items to be installed will be the billet crank pulley, alternator brace bracket, install the 4" cold air piping through the radiator support with the new 4" K&N filter hanging down behind the bumper. Swap out the gauges and install the new sending units and a-pillar gauge pod. The new ones are Autometer Z-Series 0-35psi Boost, Electric Oil pressure, and Caspers Knock gauge for the triple pillar. Under the radio dual pod, I will be removing the mechanical oil pressure and installing the electric Trans temp in it's place. The water temp staying put. And finally, install the the new exhaust system. Once all of this is done, I will be able to start dialing in the boost and tune. From here I will be installing Kirbans' braces, TurboTweak Tune Saver and a Powerlogger.

Welp, this does it for this chapter of Legends' progress. I've attached some pics.
I want to say a word of thanks to all of my vendor family members. Mike and Marianne at Full Throttle Speed, Cal and Holly at Hartline Performance, Jason at RJC, Christina and Dennis at Kirbans Performance, Brian at G-Body Parts and Archie at GN1 Performance.
Thanks guys and thanks everyone for reading.
More updates coming soon.

-Patrick-


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I’m curious why you ported the waste gate hole on the new turbo.


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Smooth flow and boost control...
 
I’m curious why you ported the waste gate hole on the new turbo.


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It is a must when running these newer CEA turbos with this setup. I may have to port it a little bit more. More testing is needed with this regulator I'm using.
Stay tuned. Update 7 coming right up.

-Patrick-
 
I’m running the same turbo but ball bearing. It’s a brand new build and I haven’t driven the car yet.


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Update #7.

So, this was a busy weekend. Saturday started off with jacking the car up in the driveway and semi reattaching the testpipe to the downpipe, so I could get the car over to my boy Shawn's shop. The 2.5" exhaust had shifted rearward and the gap on the test pipe to downpipe was real. After struggling with it for a good hour, I finally got that handled and made it over to the shop without incident. However, once there, I noticed that I could not hear the fans running. Checking coolant temp and sure enough temps were steadily climbing. Ok, mark that on the to do list when we're done with this first project. So with that, we got the car up on the lift and proceeded to cut the old exhaust off. Once that was done, it was time to install the new setup. For months, I have been going round and round trying to make up my mind which exhaust to go with. I had narrowed down my choices to either a GN1 Performances' 3" dual stainless system, or RJC's 4" single. I've always loved the sound of a 3" dual system and really loved it on my first T-Type. It just sounds right. After discussing this minor delimma with my buddy Don, he made a very good point and I know I didn't want to have any regrets with this decision. So, I decided on the 3" dual setup. And HOLY COW am I glad I did. This thing sound FANTASTIC! The before and after is amazing. It had a mild steel 2.5" Hooker cat back system on it. Ok, so moving on, we had to go rent a pipe expander for the mufflers and everything bolted on perfectly without any issues. I also installed a GBody Parts SS exhaust to cat bracket, as there was no bracket on the car when I got it. The only real tricky spot is getting a wrench into the frame rail hole, to hold the bolts for the tail pipe brackets. You just gotta hold your mouth right. :D

We were both seriously impressed on that first start up with the sound differences. Now to diagnose the fan issue. We checked the fuses, looked for loose wires and found nothing. So I started to back track my steps and think about what I'd done during the initial tear down. I checked all the electrical connectors on the intake and made my way over to the battery. Digging around, I found the one sneaky power lead that I had mistakenly left unhooked when I reconnected the battery. Note to self (and those of you out there reading) whenever you disconnect the battery, make triple dang sure to check all of your non stock power leads. I did not know this was an issue because I couldn't test drive the car with the exhaust undone. Thank the Good Lord it was something simple. Started up, let it warm up and at 165* the fans kicked on. YAY! Ok, so Shawn had to run, so I carried on. Next was installing a 3rd brake light overlay. Here's where the JEDI mind tricks come into play. Back in 2014 at the GN Nats, I picked up a license plate frame that says, Don't try it, You will loose. So, the reverse psychology nature in me said, hey, why not get a somewhat matching 3rd brake light overlay? That's right, the JEDI mind trick is now in play. It reads TRY IT. ;) Getting that squared away, I hit the wheels with some wheel polish and adjusted tire pressures. 40 up front and 24#'s in the back. Now it was time to set the boost and check the default tune and see where we're at. Initially, we were worried if the converter would spool this turbo. Deep down I had a feeling it wouldn't be a problem, because of how fast it spooled the previous TE-44 turbo. Sure enough, on the way over to the shop I was correct. Just barely giving it gas and it spooled without even trying. Excellent! So the moment of truth had arrived. Now it was time to see where the boost was at. I rolled over to the test spot, hit the test button on the alky controller to prime the system and brought him to a stop. Gave the Scanmaster and gauges a quick once over and foot braked to about 1psi and let it rip.

HOLY MOTHER OF ACCELLERATION!

Yeah baby. The boost hit 26#'s in about 5-6 ft and I stayed in it for a good second or two. Just long enough for the SM to get a reading and long enough for me to see if the boost needle stopped, or took off on me. It stopped and I didn't see any knock so I lifted. The tires were definitely spinning but were doing a damn fine job of planting the power. That feeling of the front end lifting up and bias ply tires ripping up the asphalt, is music to my ears. Ok... We're definitely doing something now. SM numbers were .761 and zero knock. Gotta remember to add some WOT fuel, but let's see if the boost will go down any? I popped the hood and turned the knob down just a tad and tried again. Same results as far as spool up and traction, but the boost was on a solid 24#'s. Ok, that'll work. Time to get out of here as I've made enough noise. I gotta get home and get cleaned up before heading out to see if there's any street action. The weather was perfect turbo weather, 54* and no wind. The alky tank was topped off, I had water for a burnout and there was extra weight in the trunk with the old exhaust system, just in case things got interesting. Sure enough, there were a bunch of locals out. This was the first time I'd taken Legend out to the local dig spot. Lot's of action, Mustangs, Camaros, Mopars, even a diesel truck messing around. But in the almost 2 hours we were there, nobody wanted any part of the GN. I even made a point to roll up with the parking lights on when I got to the crowd, you know, so I didn't blind anybody. :cool: Alas, after watching the antics for a couple of hours with no bites, it was time to head home for the night. I mean, it was 3am and all. :eek:


Day 2.
Got him back to the shop to finalize this round of mods. One thing I had noticed the night before, was abnormally high inlet air temps. I had replaced a broken IAT connector with a new pig tail and at the same time, replaced the IAT sensor with a newer one that had the brass encased element, vs the stock plastic style. I was really wanting to see if there was going to be a difference with this new setup, vs having the IAT stuck into the K&N the way it was. On my other cars, I remembered seeing the IAT temps almost matching ambient temps with a cold air setup. IE: K&N not under the hood. This setup was going to be an off the shelf kit, combined with other sourced parts, so I could make my own cold air kit. So starting from the 4" inlet of the turbo, the 4" GN1 Perf MAF pipe has a 4" to 3.5" silicone reducer hose for the 3.5" MAF, with an identical reducer hose connecting to a Spectre 4" 90* tight radius aluminum elbow. The IAT sensor is in that hose. From there, the GN1 Perf kit came with a nice, short piece of 4" aluminum tubing that has nice beads rolled into it. It connects to a 4" silicone, tight radius hose that runs through the radiator support hole. From there, I cut a short piece of 4" aluminum tubing that connects the 4" K&N cone filter to the 90* silicone hose. OAL from bottom of the 90* silicone hose to the bottom of the K&N is 12". This puts the filter behind the bumper and drivers side air dam. I've really liked this configuration ever since running one of Mark's "Original Big Mouth" cold air kits on my last Turbo T Sarah. I used t-bolt clamps on all the connections. Getting that finished, I snapped a few pics and did a little bit more detailing and cleaning underhood, making mental notes of things to address in the future.

Finishing up, I made a few pics and vids and called it a night. On the way home, I monitored IAT temp behavior. SUCCESS! temps were 90* when I left, as I had let him idle while making pics and vids. Driving home the temps immediately started to fall. Idling at a light, they did go back up a tad, but immediately dropped once I started moving again. It was about 64* outside and the lowest highway temp I saw was 66* PERFECT! That's what I remember seeing. Another thing I noticed was there is no drone per say with this exhaust system. You can definitely tell it has exhaust at 70mph cruising speeds, but you can have a conversation no problem. I absolutely love this exhaust setup. Just to recap, it's a 3" GN1 Perf downpipe with external wastegate, GN1 Perf 3" test pipe, into their 3" dual exhaust. My next project/mods will be installing the gauges and triple A pillar gauge holder. A Powerlogger, an ashtray switch panel from Mark and addressing the brakes with new parts and a line lock. Got to get him ready for some sort of track visit. But until then, definitely more cruising is in store with this time machine I like to call LEGEND...


My FB post with the video links.

https://www.facebook.com/patrick.rubio.524/posts/942743179226616?pnref=story

-Patrick-



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Update #8.

It's been a minute since I last checked in. So here's my latest antics with LEGEND.
I finally got around to switching out the old gauges too Autometer Z-series. I went with a Lo-tek triple pillar replacement pod and arranged the new gauges like this. From top to bottom, Caspers Knock gauge, Electric Oil pressure, Mechanical 0-35psi boost with the Alky Control LED light beside the boost gauge. I particularly like to mount the boost gauge as close to the dash as possible, so it's easier to glance at while making a WOT blast. Next I installed a Transmission Temp gauge beside the Water temp gauge under the radio.

I received some really nice parts from Mark at TR Custom Parts and put them on. Namely, the coil pack plate, MAF sensor plate, Translator plate and my custom spec'd ash tray switch panel. His work is fantastic and I really like the subtle touch these particular pieces add to the engine bay and interior. And even though I have the coil pack spark plug wiring order committed to memory, I just couldn't resist this design when I saw it. Excellent work Mark.

Over the past month, I have been going back and forth about my wheel and tire choices. Now, don't get me wrong, I love the Aluma-Star "Grizzly" look, but the thought of hitting a pot hole and destroying a very expensive to replace skinny, not too mention the fun of controlling the car after a blow out got me thinking. The other down side to running the bias ply setup was the thought of possibly getting caught in the rain while out and about. So, I made a plan and followed through. The skinnies and bias ply ET Street R's will be saved for the track. I've also noticed after putting roughly 1k miles on them, that the skinnies are wearing quick. They might need replacing before Bowling Green this year. I've always like the look of Weld Pro Stars and ran them on my old Gray car back in the day. But IMO, Weld's pricing has gotten out of hand in recent years. I remember what I paid for them circa "97ish and what they are today is pricey at best. I was browsing Summit's site and found these wheels by Vision. They are 521 Nitro model and are a very similar copy to Pro Stars, but solid aluminum vs the hollow spokes that the Welds have. For those of you that might not know, Pro Stars are known to develop cracks if you hit pot holes or severe bumps. I watched Dave crack two on his car back in the day. And even though these are cast aluminum and weigh a ton more than Aluma-Stars, to me, that's ok. These are just for street tires. IE: tires that can make it through a quick shower while out cruising, vs loosing control with the bias plies driving through a car wash. LOL

My Aluma-Star setup is a 28" tall setup all around and I prefer a 27" setup for street tires. So here's what I went with.
Hankook Optimo H724's in 225/70R-15 on the 15x7 black with polished lip Nitro's up front. Out back, Mickey Thompson once again got the nod, with a pair of their ET Street SS drag radials in 255/60R-15 size, mounted on 15x8 Nitro's. One thing I noticed, the depth of the lug nuts are different between the 7's and the 8's. It's not that noticeable, but I might address it at some point in the future if my OCD keeps flaring up. I also ordered a set of custom engraved center caps from Mark. Going with the black anodized with silver outlined power 6 logo. Those should be showing up soon. Overall, I am VERY happy with the look. The ride height is perfect for the street setup and we still have traction. Albeit, I haven't tried launching it hard like I have with the ET Street R bias plies, but these definitely hook. I did a lot of research on these wheels and unfortunately, there was next to nothing about them that was relevant to using them on a Turbo Buick. I like the finish and the fact that they are clear coated is a plus. But the biggest WOW factor about them, is the cost savings. Yeah yeah, I know... "But Patrick, their made in China!" True, but when you're looking for something decent to use for street wheels that won't break the bank on a budget, these absolutely fit the bill. I have seen people custom powder coat Weld Pro Stars over the years, but I already have my track wheels and tires and didn't want to spend extra just for the black centers. I've always like the look of a black wheel with polished lip on a GN. Something about the GNX look and other cars I remember from way back that had the black 5 spoke with polished lips that just stuck with me. So here's the money difference. Tires? Unfortunately, the ET Street SS's were normal retail, but I did manage free shipping. The Hankook's were $70.61 each and have a T speed rating with favorable reviews, as far as all the ratings and customer feed back goes. Weld Pro Stars in 15x7 and 15x8 worked out to be $876.42 plus shipping. OUCH! These Vision Wheels Nitro 521's for two 15x7's and two 15x8's are $398.00 with free shipping on Amazon. Now, I'll be the first to admit, that I'm not rich by any means and whenever I can save a few pennies I do my best to do so. And this just made sense for basic street wheels that actually look great IMO. So, after having them mounted and balanced at full price (sigh...) I still wound up saving $371.42. Yeah, I'm definitely good with that.

Once I got back from the tire shop and proceeded to get fully caffinated, I couldn't wait to put them on. And the good news is, they fit without having to use any wheel spacers on the back. No rubbing, all though the clearance is tight between sidewall and frame rail, it's good to go. So now it was time to cruise. And HOLY COW what a difference! The smile that this ride quality brought to my face, was huge. Now, instead of worrying about avoiding items and the car basically wallowing along like's floating on pillows with the bias plies on these horrible local roads, the ride is confident, smooth and reassuring. I'm actually dying to cruise more. The ride is so different. So yes, I am loving these for a basic street setup.

Now the bad.
After adding the extra power with the turbo, I knew it was only a matter of time before the transmission decided to quit the team. And after about 12 solid hits messing around on the street, setting boost after re-porting the turbine housing wastegate hole and putting a C7 in his place recently, that time is near. We still have solid shifts cruising around, but WOT is a different story. No discernible feel on any of the shifts under WOT. This tells me that the dreaded flair and parts destruction is right around the corner. Especially at this power level. But never fear, I've already spoken with a friend, who's well versed with these finicky 200's. And a solution is in the works.

In the meantime, I still have a few projects left. Namely, install the Kirban front frame braces, install the power 6 center caps when they come in, installing a Derale 13950 trans-cooler with fan and wiring it up and a catch can breather tank with -10 lines. One more item added to the list that I just discovered during my photo shoot, the paint has started to bubble and crack on my turbo heat shield, so that will need to be sand blasted and redone. But, progress is being made and I am getting excited to take LEGEND to Bowling Green this year for the Nats.

Here's some pics and a couple of vids from yesterday.
Thanks for reading and Stay Tuned....





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Here's a few more pics from yesterday and a quick clip from last month's boost setting adventure.
Alky level was just starting to get low.
:cool:


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