Hydroboost conversion, got a problem

[GN87Mike]

I just completed converting my PM to HB and I have the same problem with the pedal not returning. If I hold my foot on the pedal after bleeding the accumulator and start it I feel the pedal start to rise but stops and you must raise it with your foot. If you reapply the brakes the pedal stays down. My return is just like the picture 1quick6 has shown of his. My HB came from AdvanceAuto. Maybe they all have a bad supply right now. I wanted to run at Columbus this weekend but it doesn't look good right now. I am going to double check the return tomorrow but I really think it is the HB.

Thanks,
Mike

 

[1quick6]

Did you check the snap ring on the MC like Keith had shown? Also, check to make sure there isn't an obstruction of some sort in the return hoses before condemning the booster.

It sure seems like it has been hit and miss on these reman master cylinders and boosters. Either they are rebuilding the cores one too many times or it is just shoddy work.

 

[GN87Mike]

I wish it was that easy 1quick6. The MC retainer is correct and I can blow through the return as you would expect through a 3/8 T into the reservoir. I bled the brakes before I hooked up the hyd lines and it worked fine then. It even worked OK for the first two or so times I applied the brakes after purging the hyd circuit. It died when I stood on it to see if the brakes would hold the rear wheels. I never got it off the stands. I got it out and Advance Auto said they would have a replacement Sat afternoon.

Thanks,
Mike

 

[1quick6]

That's too bad, but at least you get an exchange. That doesn't do much for the pain in the butt job of changing the booster. I guess the good thing is you can leave the brake lines connected and just move the MC out of the way while you swap out the booster. No re-bleeding necessary.

While you have the MC there, you might want to think about painting it. Mine rusted within two weeks, so I had to clean it up and shoot it with black paint. I thought about keeping it oiled, but quickly axed that idea. I painted it with Krylon rust tough semi flat and I painted the cap straps ceramic silver to match my valve covers. Thanks to Jeremy for suggesting that.

 

[GN87Mike]

And thank you for suggesting it to me. Good idea. I wonder how a clear coat would look.

Mike

 

[1quick6]

Clear should be fine as long as you are very thorough in your coverage. I chose black because there is nothing else cast iron looking under my hood. Duplicolor Engine Paint with Ceramic in clear would be great since it resists high temps.

 

[GN87Mike]

Well my replacement HB came in and it looked so bad that the store manager at Advance Auto would not let me take it. It actually did not look like it had been repaired. The MC face had rust on it and the paint did not at all look fresh. I hope the next one is not three in a row.

Thanks,
Mike