How much faster do these mod's help?step inside pls..

richy rich

Richy Rich
Joined
Apr 11, 2003
Ok-so last time out my 87 GN w these mods ran 11.94@112mph.
3660 w driver and fuel
TA49 turbo
36lb inj.
RJS power plate
Dutty neck[stock IC]
Some kind of hot wired bigger fuel pump.
K-N conical
Eric's TT race chip and c16.[turned up timing in low and second gear-02 and the rest very safe]
24 lbs boost-0 knock,left on 3lbs
255/60/15 Mickey DR's.

K so pretty much assume all rest is stock....
stock Torque converter
stock down pipe
car was corked up[cat out]ran through a Hooker system.
stock steel[read heavy]Steel GN Wheels-did I mention they were heavy!
yada yada

My question is-what are these next mods worth-anyone have an answer for just one mod at a time?
Torque converter lock up switch?
Switching to Weld Prostars[skinny's up front]-will keep radials[dr on rear] on all 4 corners.
aluminum driveshaft and rear brake drums
some kind of exh. dump or unbolting after the test pipe-if I can.but basically opening up exh.

I was real happy how it ran first time out[11.94-only bothered to make 2 pass's.]Just wanted to do some bench racing to see what my new mods may bring me.There's lots left in the tune as well-but thats an open book question.Just wanted some opionion's on the rest of my new mod's.
 
1.759-left like a turtle with a broken toe!
Didn't come close to turning the DR's.
But it just didnt wanna hold any more boost than that.
 
You might want to go with a little higher stall converter than stock so you can build more boost at the line. A restalled stock converter is fine. If you don't have a line lock that will help keep the brakes cool during the burnout. Good rear brakes and upgrading the wheel cylinders will help hold more boost too.

A good 3" downpipe and a test pipe with a cutout will rule out any exhaust flow limitations and should help.

I wouldn't worry about the Al driveshaft. The driveshaft gains aren't worth the $ unless you need to upgrade/replace the driveshaft anyway. The Al drums are prone to cracking and you'd need to find a good set but they do save weight. I'd definitely change the wheels, at least for the track. Lots of weight to be saved going to lighter wheels. Also look at saving weight in the bumpers if you still have the steel reinforcements vs Al ones found on t types. Remove the spare tire and jack also. A mini starter saves 10lbs too. Well over 100lbs for all that stuff and very easy to do. The wheels are reciprocating weight so that helps even more going to the lighter wheels. The driveshaft has a very small diameter so even though its reciprocating you don't see much gains from the reciprocating aspect.
 
BETTER PUT A SHIFT KIT IN YOUR TRANNY OR AT LEAST A BOTTOM FEEDER FILTER OR PERHAPS A BIGGER TRANS PAN OR EXTERNAL COOLER OR YOU WILL QUICKLY BE REBUILDING YOUR TRANNY . GUESS HOW I FOUND THIS OUT A FEW TIMES!!!! A GOOD HOOK MAKING THE GOOD POWER YOUR MAKING AND A SHORT WHILE LATER YOUR TRANNY IS FLARING.
 
I think you sneak up on some more boost..... launch harder..... you should be able to get sub 1.6o's in the 60' time..... your MPH should be upper teens. You might try a RJC boost controller for quicker spoolup..... and you need to get it to launch on 8-10 lb at least... if not more.

You should be able to go 11.50's with a better 60' and some more boost.
 
The lockup switch should help your MPH. The dump will unrestrict your exhaust. There are likely gains to be had with the aluminum parts (including the wheels) but probably won't be noticed until you trap alot higher speeds.
 
I agree with leaving on more boost-A converter would be great but it's not my number 1 track car,so Im not into spending any dough on it.
Alum driveshaft was a freebie,and Ive had the alum.drums for years-same as the Prostars.
How do ya hold more boost on the line with a stock converter?At 3lbs it was real hard to hold on to!Felt like it coulda left on radial TA's!LOL!
 
Next mod should the DP for sure and lighter rims. Opening the exhaust will net you about a tenth. Wheels and being able to launch with more boost and your looking at mid 11s without having to do much more. But hope you have a laptop scan tool when doing this or it could get expensive fast :)
 
Leaving on more boost is key. What kind of braking system?

softer shoes in the back.... s-10 wheel cylinders..... bigger front brakes.....

could go with a transbrake......

As someone else suggested..... line lock for burnouts so you don't heat up the brakes and them not hold for the launch....
 
11.50 and you will be adding weight with a roll bar But you know that.
Is that about it for 36 lb inj .Weight vs $ I'm impressed.
 
Also, that stock IC will start to heat soak in the summer. Any kind of simple alky or water injection will help keep those air temps down once it gets hot out and you can make run after run no problem.

Also, try locking the converter after the 1/8th. It puts more load on the car so watch out for any knock up top.
 
Car actually does have line lock.Built Tranny is a given,and scantools I didnt bother to mention cause how did I know I had no knock?
The car had s-10 wheel cyl.out back but ahh they came out at some point.
I agree 11.50 for a mostly stock car w those inj.is about as good as it will get.
No Rollbar for me-Got a few other rides that warrant those.I like the car looking 100% stock.
 
You'd be surprised, some people think you have to hear knock to have knock :). And some scan tools do not scan enough frames per second or in some cases enough "frame" per few seconds to catch the most severe knock.
 
I was stuck at 111 got a new ALKY chip from TT locking convertor at 85 ( can't multi task) new mph 114 @ 11.84 locking convertor good for 3 mph
 
Runs great for what little mods you have. I will say the converter is gonna be your biggest gain and then a DP. I have very similar mods as you and hope mine runs that well. I have the trans out right now because i'm beefing it up and going with a PTC converter but still undecided on the stall. Good luck with it and keep us updated. I would be interested in seeing how much you improve.
 
3MPH gain!Hey thatt's great-What converter BTW?
I hear nothing but good things on the PTC converters.Part of me wants to do a converter,but a ball bearing turbo would also spool up quicker as well!
But ya Im limited to my lil 36lbs inj.
Running night drags May-12th.I may run it corked up with the new wheels,lock up switch and the alum ds and drums.
Shoot for a 11.70's.Then after that I got a few tricks up my sleeve.
BTW I installed the new Driveshaft and the car really does get moving quicker-lil smoother on the freeway too!
Im not saying go drop big bucks for one,but if ya come across one Id say grab it! 8lbs lighter btw.
 
I'm running a Edge as per Lonnie at Extreme Auto ,I'm 2800 on the 2-step with a ball bearing turbo.There is a lot left in it I have not touched the chip at all,but 11.90 ET is the class we have in Hawaii, but I love whipping up on race cars threw the muffler
 
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