How much boost are you all runnin' on 93 octane?

Originally posted by boostcreep
If you study his DS file you might be able to pick up some of his tuning tricks! I also get the feeling he may have tweaked his cam sensor timing also.

Crank sensor ring, cam sensor, cam timing, all are at 0.
Comp cam 206/206 roller, 40 PSI FP, 55s, Translator Plus, 60 Turbo, chambers polished, pocket ported, eDIST, but basically patheticlly stock. This is just a mule engine to see what I can get away with, ie 85 block, with who knows how many miles on it.

ECM does have Baileys drivers in it.
The ecm is the stocker, thou, I in part run some of my own code for drivibility stuff, all the WOT code is just GM.
 
Originally posted by strikeeagle
Guys,

What the hell TUNING are you talking about? If you don't burn your own chips/have a thumbwheel, and you use the stock MAF, then you're pretty much limited to:

IAC (set and forget)
TPS (set and forget)
Boost
Fuel Pressure
Spark Plug Type (i.e. Heat Range) and Gap (set and forget)

I must be missing something???

:D


That is so true........Again.HTH
 
track times would be nice from all this "high boost" activity on pump gas (and I would exclude the pump gas + alcohol folks...that ain't pump gas)

anybody? (please include car weight....)
 
Originally posted by strikeeagle

What the hell TUNING are you talking about? If you don't burn your own chips/have a thumbwheel, and you use the stock MAF, then you're pretty much limited to:
IAC (set and forget)
TPS (set and forget)
Boost
Fuel Pressure
Spark Plug Type (i.e. Heat Range) and Gap (set and forget)

Yep,
In order to go fast takes tuning, Translator Plus, and a good base chip, or if you're serious then you need to use a Translator, and burn your own chips.

Setting the TPS, IAC, fuel pressure are just Tune Up Items. Fudging fuel pressure is just trying to compensate for not having the injectors or chip correct.

Tuning is often assmed to be Wide Open Throttle. And WOT is just one element of tuning.

Setting the Wastegate in the chip
Setting the TPS enable for PE
Setting the FAPE
And the TPS and LV8 Accleration Enrichments
are all concerns of just staging your car.

Look real close and ask around, and you'll see all kinds of talk about how if you change much you'll have to change the converter stall speed, and then look around for how many folks have any idea about the accleration enrichment even works, and then wonder why they have converter problems.

Tuning is about your exact package, the more you can actually taylor the tune to your combination the faster you'll be.
 
With a "9 gallon 93, 1 1/2 gallon xylene mix (every time I pump gas)" I can run 18 psi with no knock and still be at about .790 on the 02's. Combo is bellow. I have a street chip (20* timing) and run 39 psi FP (line off). The car rips up the tires (275/60's) if I punch it from a 25mph roll! I may be able to go higher, but it enough to send Mustangs and Supras home crying. ;)
 
I'll be honest here and say my limit was 17 or so before I ported my heads and polished the chambers.

Since then, the only tuning I have been doing is hmmm, my O2 looks good, I should turn up the boost. Hmm, my O2 is getting low, I should turn up the fuel pressure.

I changed the plugs once and uhhh cleaned my air filter. I think the front mount and power plate make this possible. Wait a minute... I also ported the upper and lower intake, and throttle body. Well I guess tuning is getting everything, EACH and every single thing optimized. Blueprinted if you will. Port everything to remove ridges and smooth airflow. Of course you can only port the heads if you take them off. :rolleyes: Think of your engine in terms of an air pump. Now imagine you are air. Make it as easy as possible for you to get into and out of your engine.

I am half asleep so if I am rambling, ignore me ;)
 
Originally posted by azgn
track times would be nice from all this "high boost" activity on pump gas (and I would exclude the pump gas + alcohol folks...that ain't pump gas)

anybody? (please include car weight....)

I've posted my recipe and results before - I'm sure a search will turn them up. Stock longblock (untouched heads with stock valvesprings, stock cam, stock intake, balanced with main studs and 95,000 miles on it now), CAS V2 frontmount, 72 injectors, fuel pump, atr headers (probably still slowing me down due to poorer spoolup), THDP, ATR dual 2.5" system with UltraFlows (I've never run uncapped), and until last month a modifed stock D5 2800 stall converter. I run Exxon 93 Maryland (spit, ptui, it's as bad as CA's rfgII) pump gas with no injection of anything else, and run 20 deg of timing at wot in all gears at lv8's > 225, verified with a timing light. Most of the tuning that someone asked about IS done by making your own chips.

I started with a stock big neck intercooler, TE34 turbo (a tick smaller than a TA49), and ATR 2.5" mandrel bent downpipe. I could run 16-17 psi boost in 3rd gear and with street tires about 13.2 at 102 mph on a 65 deg evening at Englishtown. Changed to the V2 and could run 18.5-19 psi in 3rd gear and got down to 12.57 at 107.5 on a 60 deg evening at Cecil Co. I had to keep the O2's at 800 mV in 3rd gear; leaner meant less boost and netted less power. At this point I was way past out of injectors with redstripes - I was running a base fuel pressure of "only" 62 psi because any more didn't raise the wot o2's any more. Yes, I know one guy who went 10.80's on redstripes but on pump gas you need more fuel. Stepped all the way to 72's because I wanted to prove to myself that I could make them driveable on the street, and because I never wanted to buy any more injectors :). Got to maybe 108 mph with more tuning to go and then I switched to a PTE54 turbo and THDP. My 60's were bad, about 2.0, but after some serious tuning I was running 12.30's at 109-110 mph at Capitol and a few 110.2-110.4 mph passes at Cecil Co, both on mid-60 deg evenings (that's typical here between 8 and 10 pm in the summer). I added a RJC power plate but honestly saw no difference - I had tuned for 3 deg of knock retard with O2's about 790 mV and both stayed the same after I added the plate. Before and after runs were within 2 hours of each other but no timeslips. The PTE54 allowed me to lean the O2's down to 775-780 mV or so without slowing down, and I run 24-25 psi in first and second and 22-23 psi in third. On one pass where I must have hit someone else's VHT and my Nittos hooked I got a 12.18 at 110.48 at Capitol with a 1.85 60'. Last month I installed a Yank converter, about 3200 rpm stall (2900 at zero boost), and now I can fry the Nittos immediately if I launch with more than 4 psi and no matter how soft I launch I break them loose when the boost tops 20 psi (even from a dead idle, just flooring it). A friend loaned me his QuickTimePros and while I spin those too for 5-10 feet on a 4-5 psi launch I get 60's of 1.80, and at the NE Regional Meet on Oct 10 I got my best et on one pass, 12.15, and my best mph, 111.00, on another pass, on a cloudy 60-65 deg day at Cecil Co. On the 12.15 pass there was more knock than I usually get, up to 3 deg on the 2-3 shift that was back to zero in a second. On the 111.00 pass there was no kr anywhere.

I've weighed my car once at Englishtown (4040 lbs) and once at Cecil Co (4014 lbs), with a full and 1/2 tank of gas, respectively, and my tools and other junk that I always have in the trunk and back seat, the trailer hitch :)-)) and me. I did take the toolbox out for the NE Meet, which shocked my friends and probably helped maybe .02 sec.

Is that enough detail for you guys? The secrets are a turbo bigger than most people recommend for "only 12.0's", for the extra efficiency, a good frontmount, and careful fueling.
 
I have a Thrasher 92, and run Sunoco 94 only, and I managed to adjust the bleeder to about 19 psi. :D But then again, I have no scantool yet, so I dont know whats going on under the hood. Seemed to run great though. I backed it down again after that, to around 16-17 psi. Dont want to risk anything. Cant always hear it knocking, or feel it fall on its face. And even minor knock can cause damage when its frequent. Especially with my fuel system needing to be upgraded. So I'm going easy until I invest in a scantool and can actually watch the KR especially.
 
I've run 17# on pump 93 on a homemade chip done by my buddy Ryan Gick@ the dyno and put out 350rwhp and 476lbft @ the wheels. Probably gettin about 1-2 deg. of kr. Did a lot of tuning that previous night. Switched to a PTE chip and it helped my kr a little but that could be because I turned my boost up a couple of lbs. I went to the track and ran 7 runs all like running on ice :mad: best 60 was a 2.05 which gave me a12.52 @112.65 leaving from idle on 17-18#. The point is every car is different even w/ basically the same combo, but it does help to have a buddy w/ a burner to custom tailor a chip for your combo. But I will say that on somedays my car will run 19-20lbs. and other days I can only get 17# w?out any significant knock. All depends on the air quality of the day. The name of the game is to tune til it makes ya sick.;)
 
Carl

That's a great accomplishment on 93 octane and interesting info. Just shows what can be done. (that tool box has to go!)

I suspect in a different state of tune with race gas, your car would approach the 10's.

There is no magic bullet replacement for octane, but you have shown good results can be obtained.
 
Originally posted by azgn
track times would be nice from all this "high boost" activity on pump gas (and I would exclude the pump gas + alcohol folks...that ain't pump gas)
anybody? (please include car weight....)

So when you don't have anything to contribue, troll for a flamefest. Gee, how clever......
Maybe time for a new tactic, gets old seeing you repeat yourself.
Have a nice day
 
Can cooler outside temps with no other change cause more knock?

Reason I ask is I was running around last week with no knock on 93 with 18-19 lbs, highs that day in the upper 80's. I made no changes except for fresh gas. This week I was getting over 3 degrees knock, but it was also at least 15 degrees cooler.

Sooo, 2 changes: 1. different gas, and 2. cooler temps.

It's possible that the gas is crap, but I want to see if anyone else experienced more knock on cooler days.
 
Originally posted by scottyb
Can cooler outside temps with no other change cause more knock?


Yep! Even though the boost is the same, your flowing more air. More air is entering the motor, so you need some more fuel. Your car is running lean.
 
Originally posted by scottyb

There is a temp correction for the fuel, but NONE for the timing. As the air cools you need to retard the timing slightly, or crank the boost back a little.
 
Originally posted by bruce
There is a temp correction for the fuel, but NONE for the timing. As the air cools you need to retard the timing slightly, or crank the boost back a little.

I backed off the boost a little, but haven't made any WOT runs into 3rd gear since. I am assuming that even tho I backed off the boost, I am still making the same power as a result of the cooler air. At least that's what the tires are telling me. ;)
 
Originally posted by forzfed
Yep! Even though the boost is the same, your flowing more air. More air is entering the motor, so you need some more fuel. Your car is running lean.

When you say more air, are you meaning cooler air? cause the amount of air wouldnt seem to change just the temprature would right? or am i wrong.

thanks

jojo
 
i think he means that in cooler air, molecules are packed more densely together so you have more air molecules per cylinder w/the cooler air so it runs leaner.
 
Originally posted by turbo buicks
i think he means that in cooler air, molecules are packed more densely together so you have more air molecules per cylinder w/the cooler air so it runs leaner.

I see:rolleyes:

thanks

jojo
 
Boost is just a measurement of back pressure or how hard your turbo is working. Flow mearsured in CFM is the crucial paramater. So, yes to what turbo buicks says, the colder the more flow. Your going to be taking in more air in colder weather. And what Bruce said!
 
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