HKS Electronic Boost Controller

V8KILLR

2speed 1day fast & faster
Joined
Nov 25, 2002
I know it is a little rice, but does anyone use them? If so, how has it worked for you?

I've been trying to get my boost down. Still have some things to try, but was thinking about this.

Thanks for any help,
Jason
 
For years I have thought about if the hks Vein Pressure Controller aka VPC would work in place of the stock gn maf thus eliminating the maf just like the ME. As for the boost controller id ask HKS if they think it would work.Good Luck!!
 
I use the old style EVC II in my 3000gt and moved it there from my eclipse. Works like a champ for the last 7 years. I have been toying with the idea of moving it to my GN so I can use the presets to tune for repeatable boost at the track.

Sully
 
Originally posted by V8KILLR
I know it is a little rice, but does anyone use them? If so, how has it worked for you?

I've been trying to get my boost down. Still have some things to try, but was thinking about this.

Thanks for any help,
Jason

Trying to get your boost down from what? What wastegate actuator do you have? stock? high boost?
 
I scored an EVC II on ebay and am gonna instal it in my GN this winter.
Had one in my old Turbo DSM and it worked GREAT
 
Hey TurboDave,
I have the wastegate (stock adjustable actuator) puck set to just make contact with the turbo exhaust housing port. I have the bleeder valve mounted at the front of the car by the battery. The valve is slammed shut and I still cannot get a hold of the boost. It is over boosting all the time; I hate it and worry about damaging the engine. Some people think on a post about bleeder valves that smaller line to the valve, may be able to get the boost under control? I talked to Jack Cotton and he told me to port out the hole in the exhaust housing because he thinks that the exhaust can’t get out fast enough. Thus, the exhaust gas is still going through the turbine, driving it, making more boost. This makes sense to me, but it would be a pain in the a$$ to do. If the small tube will work, then great, if not any other ideas?

Here are some things that I've tried:
· Put on all new hoses
· Tested putting on a new "Y" that does not have the restrictor to see if that would drop the boost.

Thanks for any help,
Jason
 
Hey V8KILLR,

Why don't you sell me your 60-1 bb, get yourself a new turbo and be done with it? In my thread you where talking about getting a bigger one anyway.
 
Would love to, but bad timing. No $ to go to a 72 BB. I would have to go to a higher stall with a 72. Plus, looking to go to a Fel-Pro and big mouth air cleaner at the same time, when/if I get the 72. Will let you know if I do sell it.

Jason
 
i have had the HKS EVC II in my GN for 5 years now no problem
love the uint can go for 10 to 15 to 20 lbs at the push of a botton ( or 20+ with the manual knob)
 
boostx,

how did you set the Learn Mode? I read the instructions for the evc-iv and it says not to engage boost until the car is in 3rd gear.

How do you not engage boost in a Turbo Buick until 3rd gear?

let me know you set yours up.

thanks
 
The EVC II doens't have learn mode like the EVC IV. The II is old school and doesn't have the "fuzzy logic". But if you want no boost til 3rd then I would recommend light throttle until it gets into 3rd then ease into the throttle until wot to prevent it from kicking down.


Sully
 
Originally posted by V8KILLR

Would you happen to have a DirectScan datalog, with a Boost sensing cable?.

Might be interesting to see what the fuel, and timing are doing while this is going one.

If you do send it to nacelp@bright.net
 
Too Much Boost?

How would changing the waste gate controls help this? The stock system,with the "bleed" solenoid, can only increase boost above the base setting, not decrease at all. An electronic boost control will do the same, it depends on the wastegate to bypass gas, too. If the wastegate won't bypass enought to get boost down, how will an electronic control help? Seems to me like the wastegate port MUST be enlarged to solve the overboost problem. Am I missing something?
 
I think the idea of an electronic controller is it provides steady boost because it constantly reads and then adjusts. With a manual bleed sometimes you get a boost spike before it steadies out. So if you want to run 25 at the top of 3rd w/ a manual you may have to take a 27 psi spike before it settles on 25. That 27 Spike could cause you problems. But you correct in thinking that if a manual bleed is closed and the wastegate arm is in max length position, an electronic controller will not give you lower boost.


Sully
 
agree with V6 Beast!!! I think it is the spikes that are messing me up. I think I my go to an external wastegate and be done with it.

Thanks,
Jason
 
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