help crap master failed

S

sinister87GN

08 trailblazer ss
Joined
Feb 28, 2005
Hi all my crap master AKA power master messed up today i get a very low pedal and my brake light comes on i know alot of you convert to hydro boost systems but dont want to play around with that stuff should i try to repair stock pm or put a vac system in dont want to cut or mod any part of brake system/firewall does any one make a vac system as a kit ??? i dont know why gm used a pm if a vac system works any info will help
 
Kirbans and G body parts have new kits listed.

Other vendors may have kits as well.

G Body also has used kits which I just bought and installed, including the proper brake pedal that needs to be changed out, for about $250 shipped.

You might be able to source a used boneyard pedal and NEW parts for about the same price maybe cheaper.

I didn't have the luxury of time to do it.

G-body used kit is complete including hose billet vacuum block, used filter, used check valve and the booster and master are together, just make sure the bolts are tight on them.

Pedal was complete with locking pin and mounting bolts etc.

Shipping was quick too, probably 3 days to you from there.

Just the route I went and it worked out for me.

I did change out their silicone hose for some thicker emissions line, didn't affect braking performance just a whistling line which annoyed me a bit just off idle.

PS: Changing that pedal out sucks in the cold! :mad:
 
salvageV6 said:
Kirbans and G body parts have new kits listed.

Other vendors may have kits as well.

G Body also has used kits which I just bought and installed, including the proper brake pedal that needs to be changed out, for about $250 shipped.

You might be able to source a used boneyard pedal and NEW parts for about the same price maybe cheaper.

I didn't have the luxury of time to do it.

G-body used kit is complete including hose billet vacuum block, used filter, used check valve and the booster and master are together, just make sure the bolts are tight on them.

Pedal was complete with locking pin and mounting bolts etc.

Shipping was quick too, probably 3 days to you from there.

Just the route I went and it worked out for me.

I did change out their silicone hose for some thicker emissions line, didn't affect braking performance just a whistling line which annoyed me a bit just off idle.

PS: Changing that pedal out sucks in the cold! :mad:
Click to expand...

is there any mods needed to install vac system
 
I just bought the vac master cylinder/brake booster for an 85 Monte Carlo at Advanced Auto. It cost me about $130 bucks then modified my brake pedal and it went right in. If you can find a pedal from another Gbody car (that's NOT a Turbo Buick) those work without any modification. I couldn't find one so I drilled a hole and welded a bolt in about 1.5 inches below the stock pin that connects to the master cylinder and it slipped right on. It really wasn't too hard.

Just my $.02
 
Once you go vac, you won't go back! :tongue::biggrin:

Just get a master cyl/booster ASSEMBLY for 87 Buick Regal 5.0L V8, I like NAPA for this part, and junkyard/gbodyparts/whoever brake pedal from any non-turbo gbody.... don't reuse the powercrapper adapter/bracket on the firewall, "T" a vac line into the PVC line for a vac source, and then it's plug and play.. ~$150 total, best mod I ever did... :wink:
 
I am going to do hydroboost as soon as I have time. I bought all the parts < $350 sitting in my garage.
 
No mods. needed other than to remove the adapter plate that allows the powermaster to be used in cars that were normally drilled out for vacuum brakes.

You need a vacuum source, the add on billet alum. block with gasket works fine you may need to redo the small vacuum hoses on the block on a driver since they usually break coming off, mine sure did, hose for vaccum block to booster, inline filter, vacuum check valve usually part of the master cylinder booster combo. it plugs into the booster, everything else bolts right up.

Zip ties or hose clamps for the 3/8" or 7/16" etc. hose depending upon where you get your vacuum from.

And the proper pedal as well.

Oh yeah a large jug of DOT 3.

I had to bleed mine 3 times but I didn't bench bleed the used cyl./booster before installing it very well.

They work fine now! :cool:

Next project is rewinding a powermaster armature, that looks like fun, already got the 22 gauge magnet wire for the job.
 
Cool thanks guys i ordered a kit from g body used but the only thing that i cant unter stand is why did gm go power master not vac from factory gm had vac in all other cars in 87 no other gm used pm could saved $$$$$$$$$$$and as we all know gm loves 2 save $$$$$$$$$ any way :confused:
 
It was probably a precursor to antilock brakes and some engineers pet project that got approved for a lower production vehicle.

They probably thought at GM they needed this type of system for anti-lock brakes.

Just guessing though. :confused:

PS: Wipe out the inside of the reservoir with a clean cloth too, not much mixes well/safely with brake fluid so a clean dry cloth will take any residue out of the used reservoir.

Make sure the individual ports on the Caspers billet block that comes with the kit are sealed up tight. They screw into the body. I'd use some green loctite or sensor sealer or RTV (lightly) to make sure they don't leak any air. Check all the ports on the thing.

That's all I can remember from 2-3 weeks ago. :p
 
salvageV6 said:
It was probably a precursor to antilock brakes and some engineers pet project that got approved for a lower production vehicle.

They probably thought at GM they needed this type of system for anti-lock brakes.

Just guessing though. :confused:

PS: Wipe out the inside of the reservoir with a clean cloth too, not much mixes well/safely with brake fluid so a clean dry cloth will take any residue out of the used reservoir.

Make sure the individual ports on the Caspers billet block that comes with the kit are sealed up tight. They screw into the body. I'd use some green loctite or sensor sealer or RTV (lightly) to make sure they don't leak any air. Check all the ports on the thing.

That's all I can remember from 2-3 weeks ago. :p
Click to expand...

Thanks for the tip can i re use brake lines to the master or do i need to make new ones cork screw lines thanks again
 
sinister87GN said:
Thanks for the tip can i re use brake lines to the master or do i need to make new ones cork screw lines thanks again
Click to expand...

You can reuse the original brake lines, i had to bend them slightly by hand to get them in the right position to screw the fittings into the mastercylinder.
 
whitehot1 said:
You can reuse the original brake lines, i had to bend them slightly by hand to get them in the right position to screw the fittings into the mastercylinder.
Click to expand...

Yup... slight tweaking will have em in the correct position... make sure the front lines go to the large/rear cylinder.... seems like the pm has em backwards, although I can't remember for sure...
 
Oops, thought I had some good input but I'm guessing the MC leaks? Mine crapped out and I had fluid running down the inside of the floor board. I think I got a reconditioned one but it wasn't cheap. Maybe vac conversion is a better way to go.
 
The fittings are different sizes front to back I think but they lined up okay with the vacuum setup I got.

I just put the front line into the front and the back into the back.

They fit and worked, slight tweaking by hand, as previously mentioned, to position the front one.

Nothing major just make sure they line up squarely and START THE NUTS BY HAND into the master cylinder. Use a flare nut wrench later to finish tightening them.

You can bleed the master cylinder with the pipes on loose and a large rag under the lines. Get the air out of it before tightening the pipes into the M/C.
 
bmackinnon said:
Yup... slight tweaking will have em in the correct position... make sure the front lines go to the large/rear cylinder.... seems like the pm has em backwards, although I can't remember for sure...
Click to expand...

To avoid any confusion, let me clarify my statement.... make sure the line that supplies the front brakes goes to the larger/rear master cyl. port, and vice versa.... just like any other vac setup... the larger side of the master supplies the front brakes, where most of the braking occurs... and yes, the fitting size is the same for the pm master and the vac master...
 
salvageV6 said:
You can bleed the master cylinder with the pipes on loose and a large rag under the lines. Get the air out of it before tightening the pipes into the M/C.
Click to expand...

Yep, that's what I did, and following that, I didn't even have to bleed the individual wheels.... about 5 yrs. ago and still perfect...
 
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