Has anyone repaired or attempted to repair rot under back window?

somtimes you can find a small local glass shop and they will take it out for little of nothing rear glass is about 112.00 new replacement just a suggestion with eveything out if you had a small sand blaster you could clean up back seat pan and trunk surface rust pretty quick also down inside rear fender wells lot of rust there most of time then clean out lose or old seam sealer reapply seam sealer

one more sug after you spot weld everything back in sand blast welds ,metal prep solution then self etching primer after that then cosmetics

just a thought
 
been there

heres a couple before after pic IMGP0330.JPG

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Copy of ttype jon car 003.jpg

it a take your time job
 
as to the lookie lou's know what you mean Iwould roll my car out for stripping and sand blasting work or dis-assembly then roll it back in for the detail work then back out it would go when i was stripping it to metal I would sun the car or section to heat it up spray the a/c stripper on then put trash bag all over it then roll it back in 30-40 min later off come bags and most of paint As things change on the car they will trip over there own feet to see what your up to next but the more they look the the better you will feel because your car just get better looking and sounding better each time you work on it. just a thought

good luck on replacement work remember junk yard doner will be welded up identical to what you do on your car you spot weld cut will be your align for reinstallation
 
Hey Brian I'm at the point where I'm ready to order the trunk jamb and package shelf if you still have one available?
 
just touching base how did the spot cutter work out for you got any pic's yet we all like to see the progress gives everybody Ideals jon
 
Rust Damage to T-TOPS

this is the damage under the weatherstripping of my car
 

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Dont know about major structural welding. I have a few buddies that I am consulting on this. Finding donor parts won't be easy. I plan to keep the car.
Have been told by a few to use high strength epoxy after trreating metal/ rust. rest of the car is OK with a little rust on the door bottoms.
If anyone has a line on donor car/ pieces please let me know
 
loaded86 sent visitor msg, will send email we can find doner parts! cam did you get your doner parts for the trunk? loaded easy fix no worse than mine do you have a auto paint store if so you need to pickup a spotweld cutter, cam where did you get yours make sure the tips are thread on thread off
 
loaded86 start a new sticky in restoration sectio so we don't hijack cams start with same picks others will weigh in but will get it right
 
prim

cam: didn't here did you find your replacement parts? anyway talked to GM today and was talking about rust prevention GM has started a new rust prevention program on certain recalls They have gone old school and are now blasting the parts and then spraying with zinchromate prep/primer then a topcoat of primer or paint I'll talk to him tomorrow and see if we can get part number

zinchromate is what the navy used for year as primer on their ships at sea if all the parts are blasted then metal prep applied then zinchromed it last 50 years
looking to see if any doner panels are around just in case picked up the schmatic of the body panels from gm also today
 
Yeah Brian over at Gbodyparts.com is cutting the area out for me. Good to hear GM is doing something about the rust issues. So the zinchromate goes on before the primer?
 
you wash with soap and water let drip , use metal prep to clean every thing then you spray the zinchromate on everything let dry then prime deltron (PPG) primer dlp90 them paint as directed zinc spray inpregnates the metal and cause a surface conversion

almost like galvanizing the metal stuff holds up under direct sea water and sea air conditions if brians got you covered on parts cool have you check the inside of the rear wheel wells in the trunk yet?
 
St1nger did the GM guy say if the zinchromate stuff was available to the public yet? Here's some pics of the spot weld cutter kit I got. I haven't had a chance to make any more progress yet on the trunk jamb. This moving stuff is taking up A LOT of time. Hoping to get some time this weekend though
 

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hole cutter-

Cam where did you get that it's not like mine. mine has one size tip thread on and look like a wood forset bit
I'am not sure, that looks like it a hole saw just cuts holes doesn't remove any material out of center.

remember you remove the whole spot weld on the top layer of metal that way your new doner piece will line up perfectly and your just spot welding everything back in place!!

you don't have a hole all the way through that you have to fill up try to send a msg to chuck leeper see what he thinks
 
spotweld cutter info

Cam not to be pain you got a hole saw cut a hole out not the weld check out these site and item numbers these limit how deep you can cutt the hole

eastwood. com autobody search: spotweld cutter double edgehead blade
cutter Item 11279 19.99
replacements item 11280 17.99

blairequipment.com search spotweld cutter

double head cutter item 13224 16.15
replacements item 13214 16.15

this is what i used and your just spot welding back in no hole filling and your donersparts are prep the same way so they fit right back in place

my ttop frame was out in an hour and ready to go back together

another thing i did I leaded all my spot weld holes after installed then seam sealer applied
The tool up above will or made it really easy to do this kind of job for me

just info
 
LOL, sh!t I was wondering why everyone was recommending cutting a bunch of holes I'd have to fill later..... I'll order the right thing
 
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