got my scanmaster today... BAD NEWS

[ledzeppac]

ok
so the first two owners have not been running a scanmaster and after 2000 miles I got mine. Car has 65k on it. Ran at the track yesterday without scanmaster and did not like my results. Best of 9.51 with a 2.2 60' in the 1/8 at 74mph.
I hooked up the scanmaster today and fired the car up. Idled really rough and then died. Fired up right away again... has not done it again so thats ok. BUT...
Took it out to see some numbers and WTF! 13.9kr at about 10lbs boost. 4.9 kr at 5 lbs... Of course my dad is on the car saying, "is that good?" I was so pissed because I have been running like this for 3 months. So I run through all the numbers and here they are. I do have an error code for a bad O2 sensor, but the original owner just installed a brand new 3 wire heated one before I bought it. I will check to see what up with it, is it is loose or what. How do I check it? Is the knock true knock? Heated three wire O2 sensor was replaced in 2002 at 62000 miles.

AT IDLE...
O2m 85-695 all round the place
AF 03
L8 25
bAT 13.7
Int 133
bl 150
CLe 193
Ats 72
tPs .46- should be lower
IAC 09-10
cc 177-250 then back down to 40
MAL 44- O2 sensor bad

Thank you
PHIL

 

[TurboJim]

Originally posted by ledzeppac


AT IDLE...
O2m 85-695 all round the place
AF 03
L8 25
bAT 13.7
Int 133
bl 150
CLe 193
Ats 72
tPs .46- should be lower
IAC 09-10
cc 177-250 then back down to 40
MAL 44- O2 sensor bad

Thank you
PHIL

AF is a little low, I would look for a post MAF air leak. A Block learn of 150 supports this, as does the code 44 which is LEAN CONDITION, not bad O2 sensor. Code 44 is set if O2 is lower than XX for 2 mins as long as there isnt a code 34 set, or something close to that. IAC of 9-10 tells me you dont have a post throttle body leak unless the throttle screw is backed way out. I personally would look for unmetered air as in, MAF to turbo hose, turbo inlet bell to turbo gasket, if you have a RS breather bypass, check the cap on the turbo inlet to see if its cracked, leaking IC hose(s), stuff like that.

 

[Quick6]

What Jim says, plus you might want to get the coolant temp down some as well, does it have a 160 stat, whats your FP and does it rise with boost? how good is the pump, might want to put a new fuel filter in too. Sounds like the fuel system may be a tired at this point and helping to cause your lean condition.

 

[1ARUNEM]

Need an o2 count reading at WOT.. Just be careful if you are knocking..

 

[ledzeppac]

Ok, I will check for leaks or cracks.

160 thermostat is in the ash try right now waiting to go in.

Iwill try and give an o2 count today at WOT, but... Its going to show something like 13 kr when I do it but what is one more time after 3 months of doing it right

 

[salvageV6]

If you don't hear the car knocking it could be false knock which can be from several things, number one being exhaust hitting stuff.

But your post is exactly why the Scanmaster should be purchased with the car or within a week or so which is about how long you can go in a new TR without going WOT a bunch of times.

 

[trbojo]

.46 is ok for the tps. a little high, but ok. believe me, you would HEAR 13.9* of knock. make sure it's not false. all the mounts in mine were broke, and the engine/trans was bouncing all over the place. also, what, if any mods?

 

[ledzeppac]

Ok I did some WOT street stuff and 14.3 kr with o2 at 804. Checked motor mounts and I have at least one broke, most likely I broke them thursday night at the track. I will replace them.
Code 44 went away after I restarted the computer.
Thanks for the help. I will be posting soon.

 

[ledzeppac]

also fuel pressure at WOT was way pass 50psi more closer to 60 and boost still at 14lbs

 

[trbojo]

can you HEAR the knock?

 

[77tech9]

If that is true knock, you could feel the computer slowing your car down for you.

I had 9.0 knock once with a bad FPR and you could hear it inside car very easily.

 

[JadeMonkeyStang]

If you're getting new mounts you should look into the HR Parts & Stuff ones. They're supposed to be quite nice and eliminate a good bit of the engine movement/stress and elimate the need for an engine strap.

-Jade

 

[SITHV6]

try this....kinda fun...

Originally posted by 77tech9
If that is true knock, you could feel the computer slowing your car down for you.

I had 9.0 knock once with a bad FPR and you could hear it inside car very easily.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

??????????

Someone said:
"If that is true knock, you could feel the computer slowing your car down for you."
If the SM was showing the knock, then that indication came from the computer.. Real or false knock, detected by the sensor, and relayed to the ECM, should pull timing out......

 

[6SENSE]

Re: ??????????

Originally posted by Chuck Leeper
Someone said:
"If that is true knock, you could feel the computer slowing your car down for you."
If the SM was showing the knock, then that indication came from the computer.. Real or false knock, detected by the sensor, and relayed to the ECM, should pull timing out......

Exactly, doesnt matter if its so called "false knock" or not (not actual detonation occuring) if you see KR on the SM then that is actual timing being retarded by the ECM which = [at the least] loss of performance. Problem is at this point you dont know if its just performance robbing false KR or performance robbing + potential engine damaging actual KR.
Here is a thought, instead of steadily beating the car to death with WOT tests [when you know you have a KR problem at WOT], if you have an adjustable wastegate turn the boost down. See if the KR goes away. Yes, getting WOT readings is important but if you know you are getting bad KR already at WOT then you could be playing Russian roulette with your head gaskets. Knock is the single most important factor for you to watch on the SM. O2s can sometimes be miss leading, dont swear by them. With BLMs at 150 your definately going to get KR, something is not right. Could be MAF, could be vaccum leaks....
Also, what is FP at idle with the vac line off the FPR? What it went up to at WOT means nothing without knowing where it started. FP should match boost pound for pound starting at whatever its static setting is (psi with line of @ idle). For example, static setting is 43psi, boost is 15lbs WOT, so fuel pressure should reach 58psi at WOT.
Dont go by "hearing the car knock", if you have the scantool use it. If there is KR then there is something not right, even if it is something hitting the DP etc., still a problem that is robbing performance. Again, BLM #s need to be addressed, TPS needs to be checked not just at idle but at WOT where it is even more critical. .46 is towards the higher range but still acceptable, question is what is it at WOT? Do this with the engine off key in ON position. Lots of info through a search for more on this. 160 thermostat was already mentioned. "cc" if moving around alot at least shows a active O2 sensor which is good.

 

[murphster]

I'd agree with the above post. Try turning the boost down and see if the knock goes down at WOT.

Also, what Octane and what chip are you running? A chip with too much timing and not enough octane would produce similar results.

Normal for O2 to bounce around at idle. That means its working. I believe you'll see a slower response in O2 readings bouncing around when your O2 is starting to die from too much leaded gas. Easier for you to see how it works normally so you'll notice a change once it starts to die, if that happens. O2 readings at WOT is what counts, as the readings are pretty stable and will give some sort of idea if the car is running very rich or very lean.

Like stated above, fuel pressure normally goes up around 1psi per lb of boost, so a static fuel pressure of 46psi at idle would give you 46+14lbs boost = 60 psi at full boost. This is good that you can read this and tells you everything is working great fuel wise pressure wise, assuming your static fuel pressure is 46psi. For a baseline you look at fuel pressure at idle and adjust as needed from there, usually only within +/- 3psi or so from 45psi.

Keep posting to the thread and let us know what you find out.

 

[XLR8]

I agree with the above. To determine if it is real knock, you need to either turn down the bosst or add octane (100UL, xyelene, toulene) to the tank. Broken motor mounts tell me it could be false knock, but you need to find out. Don't thrash the motor until you determine if the KR is real or not and fixed.

 

[ledzeppac]

ok thanks to everyones input i will get back to you with the results

Phil

 

[onebadv6]

what is 100UL, xyelene I know what toulene is but from what I have read it likes to eat rubber parts
the other stuff never heard of is it an oct booster? and how much do you add per gallon
how well does it work? must be cheeper than 110 leaded hell its $4.00 a gallon down here I never look at the 115 or higher

 

[XLR8]

Xyelene (sp) is similar to toulene, 100UL is 100 octane unleaded gas.