Going to the track next week after 4 years...

[baller760]

After four years of college I've finally had some time this summer to put a replacement stock turbo on the car, port the exhaust elbow, upgrade the fuel pump, and run it with a TT 91 octane chip. I'm going to Autoclub Dragway in Fontana next weekend and was wondering what I should be looking to run with 96-100 octane gasoline, 17'' Torque Thrust II's w/ Nitto NT450's (street tires), a paperclip, and otherwise stock car.

Right now I have the boost at only 14 psi for the 91 octane and was wondering if 20 psi was safe to run on 96-100

I'm hoping to run quicker than a 13.5 if I can 60ft around 1.9 to 2.0. Thoughts?

 

[TurboDave]

I wouldn't get my hopes too high, even with the higher octane and higher boost, it's still a 91 octane chip (this means low low timing)

With 17" wheels and tires your traction is going to suck, whether you like it or not. There's no sidewall to flex. Great for cutting curvy roads, but they blow for launch traction. Let us know how your 60's turn out.

 

[baller760]

Damn, maybe I'll have to get a new TT chip ASAP. I remember 5 years ago with the same rims on street tires I cut a 2.1 but I'm sure I could at least hit a 2.0. So timing makes a bigger difference than increased boost huh? How much do his chips go for again?

 

[daily driver]

you have a scanmaster on it right-to see the KR? I would not try it without knowing.

 

[TurboDave]

Damn, maybe I'll have to get a new TT chip ASAP. I remember 5 years ago with the same rims on street tires I cut a 2.1 but I'm sure I could at least hit a 2.0. So timing makes a bigger difference than increased boost huh? How much do his chips go for again?

It's not that timing makes more power than boost (I happen to be partial to boost) but rather they work as a "team".
GOOD gas, high boost and high timing make for GOOD power.

As for the tires, you should thank your lucky stars you can even pull 2.1 with such tiny sidewalls. To give you a comparison, I run 15" wheels (stock) and Firestone Firehawks (also real street tires), and I easilly pull 1.8 60's on a marginal track.
That all nets me nice 8.0's in the 1/8th (aprox. 12.5's in 1/4) on 93 octane(no alky) and 20# of boost. WOT timing I run is 18 in 3rd gear. 21 in 1st and 2nd.

Do I have my tune nailed? Yes. Pretty easy to do with the Translator Pro.

 

[GNDriven]

Sounds like you had to leave the car alone until you gradated. I had to do the very same thing. Now that I am out I have went a little crazy with my ride.

Now you know knowledge is power, get a powerlogger and/or scanmaster before turn up anything.

Dont want to pop a headgasket and it be down, now that you do not have to do school stuff everyday.

 

[TTA1326]

To give you a comparison, I run 15" wheels (stock) and Firestone Firehawks (also real street tires), and I easilly pull 1.8 60's on a marginal track.
That all nets me nice 8.0's in the 1/8th (aprox. 12.5's in 1/4) on 93 octane(no alky) and 20# of boost. WOT timing I run is 18 in 3rd gear. 21 in 1st and 2nd.

Minor hi-jack warning!

Care to describe your converter\launching technique in one post or less? I've been running true ZR rated radials as well and going 8.10's to 8.20's @ 87MPH in the 1/8 mile on a stock turbo at 20psi in a TTA. I don't remember the 60' and I can't find a time slip at the moment, but I want to say it was in the 1.9 - 2.0 range. I basically launch at 1800RPM with 0 boost and give it half throttle on the last yellow, then push it down as quick as I can.

 

[baller760]

Of course I have a scanmaster! And I just found out through TurboTweak's website that I can tune the chip somewhat. I can adjust my WOT fuel, WOT timing 1st/2nd gear, and WOT timing 3rd/4th gear. My timing according to his website is currently 17 or 18 degrees. With 96-100 octane could I bump the timing up to 21-22.5 degrees safely? Also, the tires on the 17'' rims I believe are larger than they should be. The fronts are 235's and the rears are 250/45/17 if I remember correctly (I'll have to check when I get home from work). They seem pretty sticky as I have trouble spinning the tires when I leave with 3 lbs of boost on the street.

Anyway, if I can up the timing and increase the fuel delivery before I head to the track while watching my scanmaster numbers, how much boost on the increased octane and what numbers should I be looking at?

 

[baller760]

Oh, and I forgot to say that when I first got the car 5 years ago without a scanmaster, rigged vacuum wiring to skip the egr, horrible vacuum, rough idle, and chipped blades in the turbo, I ran one time down the track and hit a 14.2. Today, the entire suspension has been replaced, the turbo replaced, all the old hoses have been replaced and engine parts (timing chain, oil pump, fuel pump, etc.), and runs absolutely perfect with 770 o2's and near 128 blm's and no detonation (maybe 1 degree sometimes).

So, with the 14.2 on a piss poor running vehicle I'm hoping this new vehicle will prove to be much stronger, even on the same 14 psi. The only thing I need to figure out now is why I only have 12'' of vacuum despite plugging up every vacuum line with zip-ties everywhere. Possibly my intake plenum gasket?

 

[baller760]

Rear tires are 275/50/17

 

[TurboDave]

Minor hi-jack warning!

Care to describe your converter\launching technique in one post or less? I've been running true ZR rated radials as well and going 8.10's to 8.20's @ 87MPH in the 1/8 mile on a stock turbo at 20psi in a TTA. I don't remember the 60' and I can't find a time slip at the moment, but I want to say it was in the 1.9 - 2.0 range. I basically launch at 1800RPM with 0 boost and give it half throttle on the last yellow, then push it down as quick as I can.

I launch on the foot brake. Like the OP, your Z rated tires are also great for twisties, but they ARE NOT ideal for straight line acceleration. Those types of tires are made with hard short sidewalls to hold the tread stable in turns. They are (forgive the term), crap on a drag strip. Of course my tires are not ideal for handling, but they flat out bite. Not all 15" radials are created equal either.
Anyway getting back to the launch (remember, I have over 20 years experience racing this car). After a very smokey, hot burnout (line lock is a must to keep the rear brakes cool), I pull into pre stage, build to about 1# of boost, and sneak into the staged light and build to my launch boost (this track and my tires can only handle about a 7# launch. I try to pre stage first and stage last so I don't have to stay into the converter too long.
The way my car launches, I can let off the brake as the 3rd yellow(last) has brightened to full. I can actually see one light dimming as the next is brightening. Maybe why my launches are so consistent.
There's really no science involved. Just a ton of practice, and getting to know the track, and your tire's limitations. Like I said, I've been racing this same car for over 20 years, and others before that.

 

[baller760]

Good point. You guys are convincing me to by some BFG Drag Radials. Agh the agony of decision making in a recession!!!

 

[TTA1326]

Good point. You guys are convincing me to by some BFG Drag Radials. Agh the agony of decision making in a recession!!!

I gave in and bought an extra set of TTA rear wheels about a year ago. I just haven't given in to the urge to buy the ET Streets yet!

 

[baller760]

Dammit!!! I gave in and bought some 15'' rims and BFG drag radials today off of Craigslist. At least they were used and the whole bundle only cost $225!!! Let's hope for that 12 second 1/4 mile next weekend!