Full Throttle stroker: any updates?
- Thread starter JeffG
- Start date
- Joined
- May 27, 2001
49-blues said:
I think Dan is in Indiana, unless he moved!
Also from what he posted he has exclusive rights to the BA 3.625 Cranks.
Mike could have another vendor though.
- Joined
- May 27, 2001
Here is Dan's Post;
DLS Engine Development is proud to announce an agreement with BA Performance to be the EXCLUSIVE DISTRIBUTOR for it's line on Forged V6 Buick Cranks. 3.625 strokes are currently about 1 week out. These are narrow journal pieces. Also available, K1 Technologies 6.000 or 6.350 Rods, along with JE custom built to spec pistons. This will be an AWESOME street or race package.
We are also looking into the interest for a stock replacement press fit rod. This will be a custom order so I will need a commitment.
Pricing
Cranks $439.95
Rods 6.000 $399.95
Rods 6.350 $529.95
Pistons - Call for pricing
__________________
Dan Strezo
DLS ENGINE DEVELOPMENT
886 East 900 North
Wheatfield IN 46392
dlsengine@hotmail.com
219-956-3653
DLS Engine Development is proud to announce an agreement with BA Performance to be the EXCLUSIVE DISTRIBUTOR for it's line on Forged V6 Buick Cranks. 3.625 strokes are currently about 1 week out. These are narrow journal pieces. Also available, K1 Technologies 6.000 or 6.350 Rods, along with JE custom built to spec pistons. This will be an AWESOME street or race package.
We are also looking into the interest for a stock replacement press fit rod. This will be a custom order so I will need a commitment.
Pricing
Cranks $439.95
Rods 6.000 $399.95
Rods 6.350 $529.95
Pistons - Call for pricing
__________________
Dan Strezo
DLS ENGINE DEVELOPMENT
886 East 900 North
Wheatfield IN 46392
dlsengine@hotmail.com
219-956-3653
Mike,
Is there any recent development on this?
Last I read, is that you were running into clearance issues. Has one been put together and ran???
I'm looking at putting together a stock block stroker and am curious if you have a complete package. Crank, rods, and pistons that will accept the longer rods.
I have the cash in hand, just need to know the bottom line.
Is there any recent development on this?
Last I read, is that you were running into clearance issues. Has one been put together and ran???
I'm looking at putting together a stock block stroker and am curious if you have a complete package. Crank, rods, and pistons that will accept the longer rods.
I have the cash in hand, just need to know the bottom line.
Mike Licht
I was here first
- Joined
- May 23, 2001
qwic87gn said:
The Block is being machined now for my car. The only clearance problem that we saw was the oil passage that goes from the front cover to the oil pickup boss. That will need to be clearanced. If you break through that you will have to put a tube in it. Any competent machine shop should be able to do this easily. We had a few delays but are expecting to ship any time. I am not going to rush this to make some sales I do not wish to have problems later. I have pistons and rods in stock now. We will be using the stock length or the 6" rod in most applications but longer rod options are available. We also have BHJ Balancers and JW flywheels now in stock ready to go. Full kits will be priced right.
Mike
protracracing
Member
- Joined
- Oct 1, 2001
Dan at DLS has Forged V6 Buick Cranks. 3.625 strokes currently in stock ready to ship.Give him a call.
Dan Strezo
DLS ENGINE DEVELOPMENT
886 East 900 North
Wheatfield IN 46392
dlsengine@hotmail.com
219-956-3653
hope this helps
Dennis
Dan Strezo
DLS ENGINE DEVELOPMENT
886 East 900 North
Wheatfield IN 46392
dlsengine@hotmail.com
219-956-3653
hope this helps
Dennis
Lee Thompson
New Member
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
Dan
If someone talks to Dan, ask him about the rear main seal--No knurling on the one I got from him. I am using a Big Block Chevy rear seal so it doesn't need knurling. IMO if using a Buick seal it will HAVE to be knurled. I am curious as to what his thinking is on seals. Maybe his new batch is knurled or he has a plan.
If someone talks to Dan, ask him about the rear main seal--No knurling on the one I got from him. I am using a Big Block Chevy rear seal so it doesn't need knurling. IMO if using a Buick seal it will HAVE to be knurled. I am curious as to what his thinking is on seals. Maybe his new batch is knurled or he has a plan.
750H.P.V6
Brutal 6 Racing
- Joined
- Sep 4, 2001
What I had always been told, let's call it the rule of thumb is that a rod to stroke ratio of 1.7 to 1 or more is desired. Most high RPM engines have as long a rod as possible. This can work into a problem with a long stroke crank whereby the stackup won't fit within the limits of the block. The longest rod you can reasonably use in a turbo Buick engine with a 3.625" stroke is 6.500". A bit shorter rod in the 6.300" range will work fine on anything from a stock stroke to a 3.625" stroke length. I would say this is why DLS offers a 6.350" rod. As far as bore size goes I would say anything over 3.840" should be sonic checked since some blocks are better than others. The higher the intended H.P. level the smaller the overbore should be. If you plan on shooting for 9's you probably want to use hardblock too.
I hope this helps
Neal
I hope this helps
Neal
Inhaler said:
Lee Thompson
New Member
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
not trying to start an argument
I have a BMS crank--no knurl when in my first eng (no leak). This first eng. took a Chevy seal. I put this crank in another block which took a Buick seal. I had it in and out 4 time in a few months trying to stop a rear main seal leak. Finally talked to Doug Anderson @ Grooms eng. This is almost word for word what he said. You can not run a smooth seal (buick) on a smooth crank. A Big Block Chevy seal has knurling molded into the seal. So you can run a Chevy seal on a smooth crank but running a Buick seal will require knurling. I was able to stop the leak only after haveing the crank knurled by hand. I know some other people have said they have run them without leaking. Having said that I wonder if theirs are race only and they have not put enough miles for the leak to develop. Mine would only start leaking after a few hundred miles and steady get worse. Knurling acts as a pump to keep oil from flooding the seal. Without knurling the crank or having knurling molded into the seal you don't have the pump. Look @ a Chevy seal and you can see the knurling--Buick neophrene seals have no knurling-actually not enough room for it. So according to Doug, one or both MUST have knurling. In my case that was true.
I have a BMS crank--no knurl when in my first eng (no leak). This first eng. took a Chevy seal. I put this crank in another block which took a Buick seal. I had it in and out 4 time in a few months trying to stop a rear main seal leak. Finally talked to Doug Anderson @ Grooms eng. This is almost word for word what he said. You can not run a smooth seal (buick) on a smooth crank. A Big Block Chevy seal has knurling molded into the seal. So you can run a Chevy seal on a smooth crank but running a Buick seal will require knurling. I was able to stop the leak only after haveing the crank knurled by hand. I know some other people have said they have run them without leaking. Having said that I wonder if theirs are race only and they have not put enough miles for the leak to develop. Mine would only start leaking after a few hundred miles and steady get worse. Knurling acts as a pump to keep oil from flooding the seal. Without knurling the crank or having knurling molded into the seal you don't have the pump. Look @ a Chevy seal and you can see the knurling--Buick neophrene seals have no knurling-actually not enough room for it. So according to Doug, one or both MUST have knurling. In my case that was true.
