From drag to pro touring

blackdeathtrap

smoking six barrel
Joined
Apr 1, 2010
here is were i currently at
1987 buick grand national
19 psi
tt chip
fp reg
4inch intake
3 inch exhaust dumping before rear axel 3 inch rjc down pipe
3.5 inch and translator
mild built engine
port an polished .030 over 208 208 cam
4.11 gears
275 50 15 mt street
eibach springs tubular upper control arms
what else other the
alky,brake upgrade ,suspension upgrade,body bracing, harness bar ,corbeau seats and harness,quick silver ratchet shifter,
what else would you guys need or is there a cheaper route you guys would go to have a tight handling car
seats and harness aren't really a a must just a want and i just falls into my interior overhaul budget i will start posting pictures as the project goes on,
dos any one have a picture of how they routed there side exit before axel exhaust set ups and are you guys running mufflers i have seen a much of quite nice hand made rectangle tips coming out right were i want mine to comme out gn touring cars
wheels and tires are one of my biggest questions should i go 17 up front 18 out back or should i stick with 17 or 18 all around what tires size if the best for handling but still wanna be able to drift a lil i like the look and price of the bfg kwd g forces nice and cheap
this look makes me drool
 
I'd shy away from the kdw's. I'm in the process of dropping mine and went back and forth on 17 vs 18. I'm going 18's because there's alot better tire selection. I work at discount tire. Kdw's cup pretty bad and get noisssssy. FWIW. Sorry to jack just Thot I'd let you know what I know about em.



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i dont condsider that a jack thats dam good info so in your opinion what would you go with tire wise if its just noise that makes those bad. if you read my set up my 3 inch pre axel dumping exhaust will over comme noisy tires hahahahaha
so in your opion you would go with 18 all around i was thinking a 17 18 combo but if i cant get matching tires that would suck mabey 18 is the way to go. but i dont want my car to look like a donk and i wanna able to tuck my fenders are already rolled in the back to fit my slicks il willing to go as far as modding my front inner to tuck though
 
I'd do 18's all the way around. Take a look at ride techs white test car. Looks amazing... Are you going to run a square figment or are u keeping big tires in the rear?





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my biggest issue currently is my car plows like a snow plow january 235 radial ta up front and 275 up back i can corner and its not what i want any more theres no dragstrip any were close to were i live now but theres amazing widing back roads with nice pave that i can rip down cuz i have to slow down on every turn.
basicaly i wanna stay around 275 ish out back and make the front end much wider probly around 255
i may pull back on rear size atleast on how sticky they are cuz my et streets dont let me drift which is no fun and there horible in anything other then perfect conditions
 
Frame and body braces help a ton! If anyone tells you other wise then they don't drive their car the way it wants to be driven. I don't have an outrageous setup like some people on the forum but I like mine a lot. Spohn swaybars and front and rear control arms bilstiens and eibachs. I liked that at first but then when I added a rear seat brace and front frame brace, it was amazing. I'm sure Scott's car handles better, but I don't plan on any auto crossing unless its just for shits and giggles.
 
Frame and body braces help a ton! If anyone tells you other wise then they don't drive their car the way it wants to be driven. I don't have an outrageous setup like some people on the forum but I like mine a lot. Spohn swaybars and front and rear control arms bilstiens and eibachs. I liked that at first but then when I added a rear seat brace and front frame brace, it was amazing. I'm sure Scott's car handles better, but I don't plan on any auto crossing unless its just for shits and giggles.

X2. Frame/Body Bracing has made a great noticeable improvement. Looking forward to replacing my stock torn rubber bushings with new Polyurethane ones. The Jeep shaft made a good improvement as well.
 
If those are the sizes your trying to stick between I'd hands down go with the nitto NT05....

Fronts 245/40 r18 which measures 25.72 inches tall by 9.65 wide.

Original equipment fronts are 25.16 inches tall

Rears run 275/40r18 height is 26.66 tall by 11.61...

I'm running 255/60r15 et streets out back which stand 25.16

So with your drop the tires will look amazing provided you run the correct offset.

The choice was based on size and the fact that one of my friends tracks and auto crosses and says there easily the top 3 dry wet tires made for aggressive driving.

Hope this helps



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Whoops I meant my 255's stand 27.05 inches so ur going slightly shorter with te 275's. which should be perfect lowered.



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My advice would be to go to the suspension section and check out some of the stickies. Tons of great info there. Joel


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What is pro-touring anyhow? There used to be two ways of setting up cars for handling: springs rates or swaybar tech. I just don't think riding around in cars that rattle your teeth is much fun. If it is a track-only car, fine, but not a daily driver.
 
The car doesn't have to rattle your teeth to handle good. My car has bearing in the upper control arms for bushings Delrin lowers , del-sphere in the rear, big dse swaybars, eibach lowering springs 18" wheels and a 10point roll cage. And I assure you my car does not ride harsh. Does it ride like a stock regal,no. But it doesnt ride like go kart either. Far from it. Major keys to a good handling car with a nice ride good shocks (preferably double adj ) and to rid the suspension of binding. One reason that poly bushings are not good for this application ,since they tend to bind when the suspension is articulating causing that harsh ride you are talking about. When you take the bind out of your suspension, it allows the suspension to work like it should.
Another key is to match your suspension. Spring rates with sway bar rates and shocks that are valved to work with them. That's why adj shocks are so nice. You can adj them to match most setups. There's a lot to a good working suspension setup and its best to do some research and get informed before just throwing a bunch of parts on that won't work with each other and wondering why the car rides like crap.
It's like specing the right torque converter for a certain car , the cam turbo rear gear tire size will all come into play.
Point being , there are a lot of variables that come into play when plotting a good working suspension. I only hit on a few things here. There are a ton of things you can do before you even get into the suspension to firm up the car. Body and frame bracing come to mind. Good body mounts rubber or poly gnx bushings ect.


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body mounts , bracing , wheels tires seats harness harness bar and brakes seem to be the sensus. posibly i have been leaning towards getting one of the handling packages either level 1 2 3 4 from g body parts unless you guys think thats useless you guys think waist of money.
 
Harness and harness bar? What do you mean? Like 5 point harness ?


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sorry for the mass amount of posting my lap top is on the frits
and yes either 5 point of 4 point harness the harness bar will help with stiffening and the haness i just always wanted a set for both front seats im alsoreplacing the front seats with either a sparco r100 seats corbeau vx1 seats black and grey i also have a material tech guy at work that will embosed and stich the gn logo in the seats for added look
 
I just don't think riding around in cars that rattle your teeth is much fun. If it is a track-only car, fine, but not a daily driver.
People who have the mentality that just because a car has been lowered with low profile tires is going to "Rattle your Teeth" simply don't know what they are talking about OR have not rode in a car properly set up!

You are more than welcome anytime to ride in my car and honestly give me your opinion... ;) We will be in BG this year if you want a ride let me know...
 
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