FP fuse blowing

JDEstill

Turboliscious!
Joined
May 26, 2001
Got a Racetronix hot wire set up, with the fuse mounted on the back of the alternator. Swapped out a/c compressors yesterday. Failed to disconnect the battery as step 1, and made a nice *zap* when I was disconnecting the alternator wires. Now I'm trying to start the car, and it has blown 2 FP/INJ fuses. Turn the key, hear the pump prime, car starts, runs a few seconds, then dies and the fuse has blown. The fuse for the actual hot wire is fine, it's just the FP/INJ fuse in the fuse box. Any ideas about where I should be looking?

John
 
Just a thought... would the fuel pump test lead behind the alternator and ac compressor be able to do this, if it was sitting on something metal?
 
Yes. The fuel pump test lead will blow the fuse if it shorts to a ground source.
 
Yup, check the FP prime lead for a short to a header or pinched in a bracket somewhere during the A.C. install.

Check also the oil pressure switch round connector on the front of the motor for crushed connector/wires shorted to ground.
 
problem resolved. It was the fuel pump test lead. Got it secured now and no more problems.
 
Thanks for posting the fix to your problem, this may help someone else in the future.
 
Which wire is the fuel pump test lead? I was having an issue with a wire grounding out on the a/c compressor pump line and it caused the volt light on the dash to come on and I believe it also may have burned out the alternator twice before I managed to trace down the cause. I also think the alternator may have been on its way out again by the time I figured it out. I have the racetronix setup too and it keeps blowing one of the 20amp inline fuses that go to the alternator (the red wire, but not the blue wire). I've had the volt light issue for about a month now (haven't been driving it much), but the fuel pump fuse issue just started yesterday. The volt light was flickering when I left the parking lot and less than 300ft later, the car died (battery voltage was in the mid to upper 13v range). I eventually found the blown fuse, wrapped some wire around it and put it back in to make it home. Car ran fine. I started trying to fix the volt light issue and noticed that the alternator voltage dropped off a bit on the scan master... it's currently putting out 12.4-13.3 volts. I was thinking maybe there are other breaks in that wire that was grounding on the a/c compressor line, but if so, wouldn't the volt light still be on? I'll pull the harness apart again just to be sure... if it's not the alternator and not that wire, what could it be?? I have no clue why it stated blowing that fuse yesterday, I wasn't even in boost... the other times the fuse blew, I got into boost, then got out of the gas and when I was almost to a complete stop, the car shut off. I put another fuse in, started right up... put it in drive and moved 2ft...fuse blew again... so I put my wire wrapped fuse back in just to make it home. My buddy was saying to check the fuel pressure regulator, but other than the 3 things I've mentioned, I don't know what it could be. I'm trying to make it to Kentucky this year, all help is very appreciated!
 
Which wire is the fuel pump test lead? I was having an issue with a wire grounding out on the a/c compressor pump line and it caused the volt light on the dash to come on and I believe it also may have burned out the alternator twice before I managed to trace down the cause. I also think the alternator may have been on its way out again by the time I figured it out. I have the racetronix setup too and it keeps blowing one of the 20amp inline fuses that go to the alternator (the red wire, but not the blue wire). I've had the volt light issue for about a month now (haven't been driving it much), but the fuel pump fuse issue just started yesterday. The volt light was flickering when I left the parking lot and less than 300ft later, the car died (battery voltage was in the mid to upper 13v range). I eventually found the blown fuse, wrapped some wire around it and put it back in to make it home. Car ran fine. I started trying to fix the volt light issue and noticed that the alternator voltage dropped off a bit on the scan master... it's currently putting out 12.4-13.3 volts. I was thinking maybe there are other breaks in that wire that was grounding on the a/c compressor line, but if so, wouldn't the volt light still be on? I'll pull the harness apart again just to be sure... if it's not the alternator and not that wire, what could it be?? I have no clue why it stated blowing that fuse yesterday, I wasn't even in boost... the other times the fuse blew, I got into boost, then got out of the gas and when I was almost to a complete stop, the car shut off. I put another fuse in, started right up... put it in drive and moved 2ft...fuse blew again... so I put my wire wrapped fuse back in just to make it home. My buddy was saying to check the fuel pressure regulator, but other than the 3 things I've mentioned, I don't know what it could be. I'm trying to make it to Kentucky this year, all help is very appreciated!

Never mind, I think I figured it out. Tomorrow I'll have the alternator rebuilt...again... for anyone wondering, it was the hot wire by the rear wheel... it fell out and was grounding out on the rotor... I didn't install the hotwire kit and I'm not saying any names, but I've been going over the work of a so called professional for about 3 years now. I should've just went over everything that guy touched and saved myself a lot of time... at this point, that's pretty much what I've done. On the bright side, it's fixed and I like to over engineer stuff, so it should be pretty much bullet proof now lol. Lesson learned; never overlook the simple stuff.
 
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