First impressions on my WORK turbo

Move the cursor over to the trough after the first gear change and post a pic. Id like to see what RPM the converter is coupling at given that boost level.

Oh and do you have a forged setup?
 
GNDriven said:
Move the cursor over to the trough after the first gear change and post a pic. Id like to see what RPM the converter is coupling at given that boost level.

Oh and do you have a forged setup?
Click to expand...

I'll get the computer out and look at what you're talking about this evening.

Yes it is forged. Eagle crank, k-1 rods, girdled, diamond pistons etc. built by DLS
 
Chuck Leeper said:
I guess it surprised me that it would be that hi. [But then, a lot of things tend to surprise me.]:D
Click to expand...

It should be that high on an 800hp engine with a 218@.050" cam.
 
jpwalt1987 said:
Gn1 heads(249in/200ex)
218/218 .540/.512 DLS cam
PTE front mount
Etc etc

I am pretty sure the a/r is a .63
Click to expand...

10.0@27-28psi in average air
 
Glad to see the BW stuff is finally available in a 3 bolt. I was pushing for this a few years ago with a different BW vendor when we were getting the turbos for the BWR car.

Glad to see it finally made it.
 
GNDriven said:
Move the cursor over to the trough after the first gear change and post a pic. Id like to see what RPM the converter is coupling at given that boost level.

Oh and do you have a forged setup?
Click to expand...

Looks like it drops to 5500 rpm at the shift. It does spin the tires at the top of first. I still am not sure whether to trust the powerlogger rpm or the tach rpm.
 

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I'd trust the powerlogger. Looks like you will need a converter to couple it if you want to make 9 sec power.
 
bison said:
I'd trust the powerlogger. Looks like you will need a converter to couple it if you want to make 9 sec power.
Click to expand...

The convertor went low 9s at high 140s behind a 274 with a 76mm turbo. I bought used from
Ted A.

Edit: I looked at the autometer tech sheets and I can't remember if I adjusted the dip switches inside for a 6cylinder engine. I will check it in the morning.
 
It just appears that you are pushing through the converter a little at that point.

But upon further review, if your shifting at 6400 :)eek:) and then falling back to 5500 then that is right on for good rpm drop. If I could be so bold, you might can tighten the converter up about 200 rpm and shift at 6200 and let it fall back to 5300. This may keep you in a rpm range were your making more VE.
Or hell it could couple a little sooner in the rpm band say 5300 once your torque is increased by getting up higher in boost. I would just look into it, so that you don't leave anything on the table. I'm no expert.
 
I do remember bison talking about using John Deere Hy-guard hydraulic fluid to tighten up the convertor some. I just have regular old type f that I am sure is due to be changed. I am going to try that first before anything else. Can't afford a new convertor after buying a turbo also!!! I'll report back with any new findings.

Edit: posted at the same time as gndriven. I will study the logs some more and try for some more seat time to see how shifting it when the powerlogger says to affects the rpm drop and such. Thanks for all the advice !!!
 
jpwalt1987 said:
The convertor went low 9s at high 140s behind a 274 with a 76mm turbo. I bought used from
Ted A.

Edit: I looked at the autometer tech sheets and I can't remember if I adjusted the dip switches inside for a 6cylinder engine. I will check it in the morning.
Click to expand...

Ted A likely had an engine that spent most of it's time over 6000rpm. That's not where you want to be unless you want to change the cam and a few other things.
 
GNDriven said:
It just appears that you are pushing through the converter a little at that point.

But upon further review, if your shifting at 6400 :)eek:) and then falling back to 5500 then that is right on for good rpm drop. If I could be so bold, you might can tighten the converter up about 200 rpm and shift at 6200 and let it fall back to 5300. This may keep you in a rpm range were your making more VE.
Or hell it could couple a little sooner in the rpm band say 5300 once your torque is increased by getting up higher in boost. I would just look into it, so that you don't leave anything on the table. I'm no expert.
Click to expand...

With his cam and heads he wants to be around 5500. He will be well beyond that with boost in the high 20's. The rpm drop means little. If my engine is strongest around 5500 I want it around that rpm as long as possible.
 
bison said:
Ted A likely had an engine that spent most of it's time over 6000rpm. That's not where you want to be unless you want to change the cam and a few other things.
Click to expand...

Oh I am sure he did!! I am not changing anything in this motor. I just want to get as much out of it the way it is.
Any idea how much it costs to have one tightened up? I wonder if PTC would tighten it up even though its not theirs. What do think about the Hy-guard fluid idea, Brian?
 
jpwalt1987 said:
Oh I am sure he did!! I am not changing anything in this motor. I just want to get as much out of it the way it is.
Any idea how much it costs to have one tightened up? I wonder if PTC would tighten it up even though its not theirs. What do think about the Hy-guard fluid idea, Brian?
Click to expand...

If they tighten it it will reduce spoolup a lot. Changing fluid isn't going to fix a converter problem. Maybe 50-100rpm vs hot dex 3. Vs type f there probably is no noticeable difference. its fine where it is right now. Try cranking it up and see where it goes before you change it.
 
bison said:
With his cam and heads he wants to be around 5500. He will be well beyond that with boost in the high 20's. The rpm drop means little. If my engine is strongest around 5500 I want it around that rpm as long as possible.
Click to expand...

Due to a combination of gearing and converter a car can undergo greater acceleration for a longer period in 1st gear than in second gear even though the RPM in 1st gear went past max VE.
 
GNDriven said:
Due to a combination of gearing and converter a car can undergo greater acceleration for a longer period in 1st gear than in second gear even though the RPM in 1st gear went past max VE.
Click to expand...
Yes that is true at times and if the converter couples harder the driveshaft speed will be a lot higher before a ratio change is needed.
 
GNDriven said:
Due to a combination of gearing and converter a car can undergo greater acceleration for a longer period in 1st gear than in second gear even though the RPM in 1st gear went past max VE.
Click to expand...
Yes that is true at times and if the converter couples harder the driveshaft speed will be a lot higher before a ratio change is needed.
 
Just a quick update of sorts. I was getting about a 420 rpm drop on the shifts with my setup using O'Reillys type F trans fluid. It was due to be changed so I went with John Deere HyGard with the purple label. It's not the low viscosity. I just did a drain and fill with two quarts then drain again. I then filled it with 6qts of the HyGard. On a quick pull in town I had the rpm drop from 6300 to 5300 or so. Holy hell it pulls like a mofo! I can feel the difference just driving around town. Before I would have to give it gas to make the car go. Now it creeps forward when you let off the brake. I will try to make a 2-3 pull next week and let you guys know what I find. Thanks for all the help and advice. Jeremy
 
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