Feedback On Por-15
- Thread starter GNBlack
- Start date
In POR's defense, I think POR is quite upfront when they say new metal MUST be treated with "Metal Ready" to etch the surface before painting. This is standard prep for any new metal, not just POR. Most modern professional auto primers are "self etching" for example.
Even when painting galvanized sheet metal around the house (eg gutters, drip edges, railings) the normal practice is to let it weather a few months before painting, use a treatment like "metal ready", or use full-strength vinegar (the acetic acid provides some etching & weathering).
The POR & topcoat is sticking quite well to my re-painted trailer hitch, but I made sure that the new metal surface was properly etched before painting. Although, it seemed to take quite a bit longer (a week or 2) to reach maximum hardness, then POR says. The rel humidity where I live is typically 50-60%, but it still took a long time to fully cure.
BTW, I agree that lacquer thinner is just fine for cleanup -- that's also what the POR phone tech told me. Although, he said that if I intended to thin POR 5-10% for spraying, to use only their solvent (I'm unable to evaluate that claim). This doesn't seem that different from an auto paint mfr's insistence that you use only their special "reducers" for spraying.
I've been using POR 15 for many years. This is my personal experience with the stuff.
POR 15 Gloss black, silver and clear work very well. Do not buy the flat black! It dries porous and will rust through! Do not thin the paint for spraying, apply by brush only.
Always apply 2 coats. Allow first coat to dry until tacky but won't come off on your fingers, then apply second coat. As stated before, POR 15 cures with humidity. The MORE humid, the FASTER it dries.
Clean metal should be sandblasted first to roughen the surface then treat with metal prep etching. I never had POR 15 peel off anything! It is UV sensative but color wise only. Sunlight will not cause it to peel! Besides, your painting the undercarriage not the body.
The first car I had used this stuff on, has been done for 8 years now. The rear end housing and engine K frame are as shiny and clean as the day I painted them!(Gloss black and no top coat)
As far as engine paint, the best thing to use is single stage enamel ( auto body paint ). Clean and degrease block and heads thoroughly and repeat 3 times!
Apply a thin but covering coat of etching primer. I use Dupont Vari Prime. Have the desired engine color mixed up at the paint store in single stage enamel and get some "wet look" hardener.
Mix enamel, reducer, and hardener as per directions and apply a single covering coat of color. The trick is to keep the paint thickness to a minimum. Don't apply thick coats of primer or top coat or the paint will fail! This is the best engine paint ever! 8 years and looks as good as new, with no rust or touch ups!
As I stated in another post, I have never found an exhaust header or manifold paint that lasts for any length of time! I had better luck with VHT than the POR 15 manifold paint! Don't waste your money. Just get it JET HOT coated.
Again, this is just my personal experience. Agree or disagree, it worked for me! (hey that rhymes)
Good luck
POR 15 Gloss black, silver and clear work very well. Do not buy the flat black! It dries porous and will rust through! Do not thin the paint for spraying, apply by brush only.
Always apply 2 coats. Allow first coat to dry until tacky but won't come off on your fingers, then apply second coat. As stated before, POR 15 cures with humidity. The MORE humid, the FASTER it dries.
Clean metal should be sandblasted first to roughen the surface then treat with metal prep etching. I never had POR 15 peel off anything! It is UV sensative but color wise only. Sunlight will not cause it to peel! Besides, your painting the undercarriage not the body.
The first car I had used this stuff on, has been done for 8 years now. The rear end housing and engine K frame are as shiny and clean as the day I painted them!(Gloss black and no top coat)
As far as engine paint, the best thing to use is single stage enamel ( auto body paint ). Clean and degrease block and heads thoroughly and repeat 3 times!
Apply a thin but covering coat of etching primer. I use Dupont Vari Prime. Have the desired engine color mixed up at the paint store in single stage enamel and get some "wet look" hardener.
Mix enamel, reducer, and hardener as per directions and apply a single covering coat of color. The trick is to keep the paint thickness to a minimum. Don't apply thick coats of primer or top coat or the paint will fail! This is the best engine paint ever! 8 years and looks as good as new, with no rust or touch ups!
As I stated in another post, I have never found an exhaust header or manifold paint that lasts for any length of time! I had better luck with VHT than the POR 15 manifold paint! Don't waste your money. Just get it JET HOT coated.
Again, this is just my personal experience. Agree or disagree, it worked for me! (hey that rhymes)
Good luck
> The first car I had used this stuff on, has been done for 8 years >now. The rear end housing and engine K frame are as shiny and >clean as the day I painted them!(Gloss black and no top coat)
Yeah, me too - that was my initial point ...
car a - 10 years, looks like new
ca b - 10 weeks, looks like junk
same stuff???? Personally I don't think so - I think they changed it.
And yes, even with cleaning the metail with laquer thinner, using their metal etch and then painting it, the stuff came off in sheets.
I think the best place for this stuff is rusty/rough surfaces and skip it for newer ones...
Yeah, me too - that was my initial point ...
car a - 10 years, looks like new
ca b - 10 weeks, looks like junk
same stuff???? Personally I don't think so - I think they changed it.
And yes, even with cleaning the metail with laquer thinner, using their metal etch and then painting it, the stuff came off in sheets.
I think the best place for this stuff is rusty/rough surfaces and skip it for newer ones...
seems that no one believes ANY paint product will last on the TR headers.
A while back I had Jet Hot quote me on their "JetHot 2000" coating, the highest rated one. $220 for 2 headers , plus $15 per foot on the crossover pipe (~$50).
does the Jet Hot hold up?
more and more I'm thinking to just bead blast the headers to clean them up, and reinstall them uncoated.
A while back I had Jet Hot quote me on their "JetHot 2000" coating, the highest rated one. $220 for 2 headers
, plus $15 per foot on the crossover pipe (~$50).does the Jet Hot hold up?
more and more I'm thinking to just bead blast the headers to clean them up, and reinstall them uncoated.
I think the question is "how long" paint will last on the headers.
IF I did use one again, I would definitely buy one of the 1800 degree paints and then maybe coat over it.
If you are talking coatings, one coating that will absolutely hold up is the stuff by Swain Technologies, because it's not just a coating.
I heard some people say the newer Jet Hot 2000 is holding up better than the old stuff.
IF I did use one again, I would definitely buy one of the 1800 degree paints and then maybe coat over it.
If you are talking coatings, one coating that will absolutely hold up is the stuff by Swain Technologies, because it's not just a coating.
I heard some people say the newer Jet Hot 2000 is holding up better than the old stuff.
I''m about 1/3 of the way into painting my gas tank with POR15 & Chassis Black, I am getting MUCH better results using a high quality natural bristle brush than I ever did using foam brushes.
by "high quality" I mean a good $10 Purdy brush or equivalent, specifically intended for oil paints or lacquer. I can control the "loading" and release of paint much better than with foam, and can also do limited smoothing of the POR better than I ever could with foam.
The downside, of course, is a lot of tedious brush cleaning.
If you're painting something that won't show (eg floor pan under carpet), and or where it doesn't matter too much (eg frame rail) by all means use a foam pad. But if appearance matters, consider using a good brush. Don't even think of using an economy $1.99 brush, or you will be disappointed.
by "high quality" I mean a good $10 Purdy brush or equivalent, specifically intended for oil paints or lacquer. I can control the "loading" and release of paint much better than with foam, and can also do limited smoothing of the POR better than I ever could with foam.
The downside, of course, is a lot of tedious brush cleaning.
If you're painting something that won't show (eg floor pan under carpet), and or where it doesn't matter too much (eg frame rail) by all means use a foam pad. But if appearance matters, consider using a good brush. Don't even think of using an economy $1.99 brush, or you will be disappointed.
well i was thinking of the jet hot as well and from what ive read anyway...its amazing stuff....chrome finish protects up to 1400 degree and the black finish up to 2000! the only reason i didnt seriously consider it was the cost. ALl ive heard about it is positive....funny though the por-15 advertises a 1400 heat resistance as well and its way cheaper plus it has the ability "aparently" to fill in any cracks etc...this is what reall drew me to the product....ie: the 5-6 crack that is notorious on GN headers.
I seriously doubt POR will fill and/or prevent a header crack. They just crack - they all do
There was this stuff called "Pyro Putty" or something like that - it fills cracked manifolds and blocks. I remember someone trying that on a cracked TR header and even it didn't work or work for long.
The only way to fix them is to weld them.
Also - a TR exhaust can easily surpass 1400 degrees at WOT.
I found using POR-15 with a foam brush wasn't so great. It also "foams" the paint too much and can't be used on rough surfaces. I just got a few china bristle brushes and threw them out as they got loaded up. Heck, you pay $30 a quart for the paint, what's $5 for a brush, right
There was this stuff called "Pyro Putty" or something like that - it fills cracked manifolds and blocks. I remember someone trying that on a cracked TR header and even it didn't work or work for long.
The only way to fix them is to weld them.
Also - a TR exhaust can easily surpass 1400 degrees at WOT.
I found using POR-15 with a foam brush wasn't so great. It also "foams" the paint too much and can't be used on rough surfaces. I just got a few china bristle brushes and threw them out as they got loaded up. Heck, you pay $30 a quart for the paint, what's $5 for a brush, right
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