Id like some feedback on Por-15... i plan on repainting my car and want to take the paint off with the stuff and rust proof it with por-15 as well. Im seriously looking at teh manifold resto kit and engine painting kit as well and doing the bottom of the car in Por-15.......but id like to hear some feedback on actual users or people who know of someone who has used it....good or bad feedback is good. Thank you.
Feedback On Por-15
- Thread starter GNBlack
- Start date
I used it over 10 years ago and told people about it. They were doubters then but are advocates now. In all honesty I think they have reformulated the mixture because I am convinced the old stuff was better than the new stuff. Even with meticulous prep I find the new stuff peels off after a while, while the stuff I put on 10 years ago is like iron.
That being said, the only possible competitive products on the market are by Eastwood and Bill Hirsch. I still think POR-15 is great, especially for areas that have some rust already. Ironically it works better on rusted areas that pristine metal.
Check out their catalog and process - the rust stopper/prep, POR-15 and if exposed to light, use the topcoat. UV rays will break down regular POR-15.
For engine enamel, Bill Hirsch paint is the best - no one is even in second place. That paint is used on more award-winning restorations than any other paint. I did a block almost 10 years ago and the stuff looks like new. But it's not cheap, so alternative paints are good for many other people.
Regarding the manifold resto kit, do you mean exhaust manifold? If we are talking about the headers on a turbo car, most paints are going to flake off with the heat, even if prepped right. I know some people have had good short-term results, but I don't think they will last long term. There are some 1800 degree paints on the market that may last longer.
If you mean cast iron ones, the Bill Hirsch stuff is again great but not cheap. Eastwood's stuff was mediocre but they have reformulated it - maybe it's better now. Not sure how the POR-15 is, but I would be surprised if it's better than the Hirsch stuff.
That being said, the only possible competitive products on the market are by Eastwood and Bill Hirsch. I still think POR-15 is great, especially for areas that have some rust already. Ironically it works better on rusted areas that pristine metal.
Check out their catalog and process - the rust stopper/prep, POR-15 and if exposed to light, use the topcoat. UV rays will break down regular POR-15.
For engine enamel, Bill Hirsch paint is the best - no one is even in second place. That paint is used on more award-winning restorations than any other paint. I did a block almost 10 years ago and the stuff looks like new. But it's not cheap, so alternative paints are good for many other people.
Regarding the manifold resto kit, do you mean exhaust manifold? If we are talking about the headers on a turbo car, most paints are going to flake off with the heat, even if prepped right. I know some people have had good short-term results, but I don't think they will last long term. There are some 1800 degree paints on the market that may last longer.
If you mean cast iron ones, the Bill Hirsch stuff is again great but not cheap. Eastwood's stuff was mediocre but they have reformulated it - maybe it's better now. Not sure how the POR-15 is, but I would be surprised if it's better than the Hirsch stuff.
I see you mentioned Eastwood's "stuff". Do you mean their corroless stuff? If so, it is far from mediocre. Its AWESOME. Paint it on rust - dries rock hard and doesn't even need to be topcoated. I have done frames, insides of doors, rear axles, etc and the stuff doesn't peel and doesn't rust again. I thought it compared to the POR-15 everyone talks about. But, if their new stuff is peeling, try the corroless. Its great!
Eastwood's exhaust mainfold paint was definitely mediocre. It went on fine but really didn't last long at all.
I didn't think I said or imlpied (at least I didn't mean to) that Corroless was mediocre. I have heard good things about corroless and was going to try it. Didn't they say they just "improved" that product too?
Again, Corroless and the Bill Hirsch "Miracle Paint" are the main 2 competitors of POR-15 that I know of. Of course, some people still think Rustoleum is a competitor
Don't get me wrong - Eastwood makes excellent stuff. You can't
beat some of their specialty paints like cad, krinkle coat, correct "grays", radiator paint, etc.
Sounds like the Corroless is worth a try.....
I didn't think I said or imlpied (at least I didn't mean to) that Corroless was mediocre. I have heard good things about corroless and was going to try it. Didn't they say they just "improved" that product too?
Again, Corroless and the Bill Hirsch "Miracle Paint" are the main 2 competitors of POR-15 that I know of. Of course, some people still think Rustoleum is a competitor
Don't get me wrong - Eastwood makes excellent stuff. You can't
beat some of their specialty paints like cad, krinkle coat, correct "grays", radiator paint, etc.
Sounds like the Corroless is worth a try.....
- Joined
- May 28, 2001
POR-15?
Did my mailbox w/ POR and it lasted bout 3 days and turned "camo black"!!
I neglected to read and re- read the part that said it's not UV pruf!!! The beautiful gloss black is now dull, stained and looks to be coming off!! DUH!!
haven't used Corroless. Is it UV pruf??
I have a frame that's gonna get blasted and painted.. don't need to do it twice.. BUT then I do most everything else twice.. why not the frame??
Did my mailbox w/ POR and it lasted bout 3 days and turned "camo black"!!
I neglected to read and re- read the part that said it's not UV pruf!!! The beautiful gloss black is now dull, stained and looks to be coming off!! DUH!!
haven't used Corroless. Is it UV pruf??
I have a frame that's gonna get blasted and painted.. don't need to do it twice.. BUT then I do most everything else twice.. why not the frame??
Corroless doesn't come in colors last time I saw it, so you need to cover it anyway. I'm not sure what might happen if you put it over POR-15?? I think they make a smaller spray can size that might be worth a try, but the pricing makes it more economical to buy quarts.
Shipping kills you on this stuff now because it gets the hazmat charges!
Funny thing about the POR-15 - I got the top-coat stuff which is supposed to be UV proof, painted it over the regular POR-15 and guess what? The black turned dull and faded, just like your mailbox..
I wasn't too happy about that, especially at $30 a quart.
I don't have chemical proof, but I personally think that HEAT affects POR-15 and will break it down. Maybe that's why the inner fender wells I painted on cars turned dull.
It gets expensive experimenting with this stuff
Shipping kills you on this stuff now because it gets the hazmat charges!
Funny thing about the POR-15 - I got the top-coat stuff which is supposed to be UV proof, painted it over the regular POR-15 and guess what? The black turned dull and faded, just like your mailbox..
I wasn't too happy about that, especially at $30 a quart.
I don't have chemical proof, but I personally think that HEAT affects POR-15 and will break it down. Maybe that's why the inner fender wells I painted on cars turned dull.
It gets expensive experimenting with this stuff
- Joined
- May 28, 2001
heat pruf??
Mark, I'd think the problem w/ my mailbox only reinforces your thinking about the heat related failure of POR.. It is HOT here and was VERY hot when I did this.. Painted it in the shop, then put it up after a day or 2 to dry.. WHAMO.. went "dead"!!
Your are right on w/ the costs.. I have another QT of this $hit and am thinking of sending it back.. frt collect!!
Mark, I'd think the problem w/ my mailbox only reinforces your thinking about the heat related failure of POR.. It is HOT here and was VERY hot when I did this.. Painted it in the shop, then put it up after a day or 2 to dry.. WHAMO.. went "dead"!!
Your are right on w/ the costs.. I have another QT of this $hit and am thinking of sending it back.. frt collect!!
zam70 - not disputing you, but according to POR-15, that is not supposed to work. Now granted, I realize they are trying to sell more product.... but they make a "primer" that goes over the POR-15 and THEN you can use any other paint ... so they say.
Did the Kyrlon have any adverse affects? Orange peel, crazing, etc? How long has it been on?
I'm going to try it on part of an inner fender..
Did the Kyrlon have any adverse affects? Orange peel, crazing, etc? How long has it been on?
I'm going to try it on part of an inner fender..
My experience with POR is limited, but a few weeks I ago I repainted the trailer hitch/receiver on my truck:
-- stripped off all old paint
-- etched the metal with POR's "Metal Ready" product to get a nice dull phosphated finish
-- two thin coats of POR15 semi-flat black
-- one full coat of POR's "Chassi Black" topcoat
Painting was done in my garage, out of direct heat & light, temps are moderate (70s) while paint was curing.
no evidence of fading yet, hitch has been back on the truck a few weeks.
I noted it takes several days for POR to fully cure. Until then it can be scratched or chipped. I've made several "test taps" with a hammer, the POR & Chassis Black don't chip. Ordinary Rustoleum or Krylon are definitely not that rugged.
I'm about to paint a gas tank with POR & Chassis Black, the galvanized tank has been prepped with "Metal Ready".
Hope I'm not making a costly mistake !!
Re the heat resistant POR paints, any comments on their POR20 "Brilliant Aluminum" heat resistant paint?
I was thinking of sandblasting my stock headers to remove all rust
& provide a rough "grippy" surface (POR's recommendation).
But since it's "normal" for headers to glow red under heavy load, can any paint or caoting really hold up to this??
IMHO, the only paint that comes close to holding up is the Bill Hirsch stuff. I had reasonable luck with the stuff on unprepared headers, so it should work better with well prepared ones.
I know there are people that have gotten good results with other stuff, but I think the heat factor with these turbo headers is just too great.
Sometimes these things look great after a week, a month, 3 months but then 1 year later the paint is gone.
I know there are people that have gotten good results with other stuff, but I think the heat factor with these turbo headers is just too great.
Sometimes these things look great after a week, a month, 3 months but then 1 year later the paint is gone.
for more info on Hirsch: http://www.hirschauto.com/
there seem to be some similarities between the basic POR15 & the Hirsch "Miracle Paint Rust Killer".
Both are moisture cured urethanes, bond directly to lightly rusted metal, "dry rock hard", etc.
Hirsch claims:
Sounds a lot like POR to me ... and they're both in New Jersey, too !
there seem to be some similarities between the basic POR15 & the Hirsch "Miracle Paint Rust Killer".
Both are moisture cured urethanes, bond directly to lightly rusted metal, "dry rock hard", etc.
Hirsch claims:
So it's "resistant", but it "will fade" and "must be topcoated".
Sounds a lot like POR to me ... and they're both in New Jersey, too !
I followed the instuctions for the por 15 then after it cured I prepped the part with a red scuff pad, degreased and shot the krylon/rustoleum right on top. So far it's holding up great. Granted, I haven't had it on the TR parts very long but have done this in the past with other projects and it held up great.
Bonus plan to it all is touch ups are a breeze since you can buy the paint anywhere.
Let's face it, NOTHING will last forever. I just try to use something that is easy to match/touchup 2 years down the road.
RealFastV6
Plays with Trucks
- Joined
- May 26, 2001
If you let POR dry for about 8 hours, so that its still tacky, but pretty dry, and THEN spray it with krylon or whatever, it'll stay.
Just my experience.
Just my experience.
F
Fred 86 GN
Guest
POR-15 is awsome! Best rust cover/converter/protectant I have found!
Tom h -- I used the "metal ready" on my new galvanized gas tank and then put POR-15 on it. It worked well. Now I show off my "show car" quality gas tank to people!
Tom h -- I used the "metal ready" on my new galvanized gas tank and then put POR-15 on it. It worked well. Now I show off my "show car" quality gas tank to people!
trbo668bird
New Member
- Joined
- Jul 7, 2002
Por 15 definitely has its place. The only place it will work and last is something that is heavily sand (gravel probably better) blasted and/or heavily rust pitted, period. If it is the least bit smooth the stuff will come off in sheets. Sun and heat break Por 15 down very quickly. Topcoat with your favorite spray bomb when Por 15 is lightly tacky, have yet to have any adverse reactions
The Por 20 (I think) exhaust coating didn't even last through breaking in my cam. Not worth even considering IMO. If you do want to try some I have a pint I'd gladly give away
The Por 20 (I think) exhaust coating didn't even last through breaking in my cam. Not worth even considering IMO. If you do want to try some I have a pint I'd gladly give away
Red Regal T
Senior Member
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
I never used that por 15 and probably never will get around to sending off (2 much) money so I can be disappointed. I used to get the Eastwood's catalog (unsolicited) and really had to chuckle over the rediculously high prices for their various "kits", when you could shop around and find $2 a can stuff that'll do the same thing. Waste your money if you want........
Waste your money if you want........- Joined
- May 26, 2001
Re: heat pruf??
Chuck, it is not "hot" that cures POR, it is moisture. On a 100+ degree day here, may take POR 24 hours to cure with 10% humidity.
Years ago when I was restoring Skylarks, I used POR lots. Even the under hood parts would dull w/o hardly any UV. What I would do is spray it with gloss black when still tacky. When dry, looked just like stock satin black. It holds up real well with that done.
Guess that was already said!
Chuck, it is not "hot" that cures POR, it is moisture. On a 100+ degree day here, may take POR 24 hours to cure with 10% humidity.
Years ago when I was restoring Skylarks, I used POR lots. Even the under hood parts would dull w/o hardly any UV. What I would do is spray it with gloss black when still tacky. When dry, looked just like stock satin black. It holds up real well with that done.
Guess that was already said!
POR reps if they are being frank say only use POR 15 on rust. And its a waste to use this $$ stuff on normal surfaces. It has to have a rusty surface to "grab". Use more than one coat on real rusty spots. Also dont need to buy their cleanup juice because laquer thinner will do it.
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