Factory Torque convertor

B

BoostKing

New Member
Joined
Aug 25, 2007
my stock torque converter will only stall to about 2k rpm. i have a TA 49 Turbo on my car so i start to get power at about 3000 rpm.

I thought that the TA 49 was supposed to work with the stock converter.

On the foot brake i cant build any boost.

In conclusion my car is a dog off the line and i want to know what i can do to fix this issue. anyone plz feel free to chime in. any and all advice will be appreciated.

john
 
john, I had what I believe to be a stock converter in my GN, PT51 turbo, which is similar in size to yours, and mine was horribly slow off the line. I switched it out for a 9/11 3000 stall and it will come off the line like a bat out of hell. Give another converter a shot and you will suddenly like launching your car :eek:

Will
 
You will need at least a 2600-2800 stall converter to work with the TA-49. I had the same issue when I went to the TA-49 with the stock converter.
 
BoostKing said:
my stock torque converter will only stall to about 2k rpm. i have a TA 49 Turbo on my car so i start to get power at about 3000 rpm.

I thought that the TA 49 was supposed to work with the stock converter.

On the foot brake i cant build any boost.

In conclusion my car is a dog off the line and i want to know what i can do to fix this issue. anyone plz feel free to chime in. any and all advice will be appreciated.

john
Click to expand...

sounds like you have tuning issues that convertor should work fine
 
do u have a cracked header or any exhaust leaks? what r ur o2's when trying to launch? try using the e-brake and see if u can build anymore boost.
 
This is BoostKing's sort of crew member:biggrin: . Yes, exhaust manifolds are cracked. And he's used to his Mopar street car that goes mid 12's w/high 1.60 60 fts. These hair dryer car's are completely different animals right? Also, will the cracked manifolds make a big difference? Also are the stock manifolds mild or stainless steel? We were hoping to do the repair at home. thx clonestocker
 
clonestocker said:
This is BoostKing's sort of crew member:biggrin: . Yes, exhaust manifolds are cracked. And he's used to his Mopar street car that goes mid 12's w/high 1.60 60 fts. These hair dryer car's are completely different animals right? Also, will the cracked manifolds make a big difference? Also are the stock manifolds mild or stainless steel? We were hoping to do the repair at home. thx clonestocker
Click to expand...

yes cracked manifolds will bleed out valuable exhaust gases and pressure that is needed to build boost on the foot brake. these cars r definitely different in my opinion, very sensitive to small changes! im pretty sure they r mild steel, i cant see them being stainless considering my car was garaged since day one when my dad bought it and they r a pretty reddish brick color for as long as i can remember! welding will probably repair it for now but it will most likely crack again right on the edge of the new welds.
 
Jerryl said:
I think the headers are made from a low grade of SS.
Happy reading! :cool:
http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/ge.../178032-who-welds-cracks-factory-headers.html
Click to expand...

thats one heck of a read... ive been learning alot of that metalurgical stuff in school lately and that is some cool stuff! so they r stainless!!! i was always wondering that because i remember seeing it somewhere but never could confirm it until now!

i have a question though after reading that... r Poston headers mild steel or stainless cause mine is cracked on pass. side!
 
johnnyttype said:
thats one heck of a read... ive been learning alot of that metalurgical stuff in school lately and that is some cool stuff! so they r stainless!!! i was always wondering that because i remember seeing it somewhere but never could confirm it until now!

i have a question though after reading that... r Poston headers mild steel or stainless cause mine is cracked on pass. side!
Click to expand...

Do a search.

As far as the original question:
Could the wrong converter.
Pull the cover and look at the stamping on it.

If you can not build any boost on the brake, something obviously wrong.:eek:
Make sure your MAF is working correctly, and that you are not running too rich.
Look for the WG and make sure it closes.
Verify that the "Y" is the correct one and hooked up currectly.
Verify the boost gage as well. I have seen the typical plastic hose melt almost shut. :frown:
Etc. Etc.
 
thanks for the info guys. im going to get those cracks welded up and get the scanmaster numbers in spec to insure the engine is operating correctly.

I can see the crack on the d side header. where does the passenger header generally crack?

I dont want to pull the pass. side header(pulling it looks like a real PITA) just to see it perfectly fine.

Thanks again guys.

John
 
just take a mirror or something and just look around the welds, i dont know where the pass. side is prone to cracking but i have heard of it happening and would imagine any of the welded areas are fair game. my header on pass side cracked almost all the way around the #6 primary tubes weld where it meets the log portion of the header!
 
thanks alot man. since my jury duty was postponed tomorrow and i got the day off work........ i now have some time to turn some wrenches.

also i just brake torqued my car to get an approximate stall rpm. i only got to 1750 rpm, keep in mind this is with the gas pedal to the floor, no tire spin or boost.

what do your guys' factory converters stall to?

definantly time to get to the bottom of this.

John
 
BoostKing said:
thanks alot man. since my jury duty was postponed tomorrow and i got the day off work........ i now have some time to turn some wrenches.

also i just brake torqued my car to get an approximate stall rpm. i only got to 1750 rpm, keep in mind this is with the gas pedal to the floor, no tire spin or boost.

what do your guys' factory converters stall to?

definantly time to get to the bottom of this.

John
Click to expand...

Factory stall for a D5 is around 2500 and will change some with engine output.
I would "think" that you should stall higher than 1750, even with a cracked exhaust/header, unless the leak is MASSIVE!
Bet it is a D7 converter. Better verify.
 
how can i verify d5 or d7?

its a good sized crack but i dont think it is robbing 750 rpm of stall from me.
 
I pulled my old converter out when I stuck in my 9/11 converter and it had D7 stamped all the way around it. What stall is this rated to, what car was it made for, and why the hell would anyone have put that in my car (before I bought it...)

not to steal your thread man, but I am guessing this is what happened to yours too. Mine had a fresh rebuild on the tranny and they had slapped that sucky converter in. My symptoms were eerily similar to yours. No power down low...
 
I think BoostKing has some issues to check out on his car. But, he made the mistake of driving his other car last night which has an 8in 4500 conv. How hard will a 12 sec GN leave? thx matt
 
VortechWS6 said:
I pulled my old converter out when I stuck in my 9/11 converter and it had D7 stamped all the way around it. What stall is this rated to, what car was it made for, and why the hell would anyone have put that in my car (before I bought it...)

not to steal your thread man, but I am guessing this is what happened to yours too. Mine had a fresh rebuild on the tranny and they had slapped that sucky converter in. My symptoms were eerily similar to yours. No power down low...
Click to expand...

Just subscribing here. I have a KFC trans with, you guessed it a D7 convertor.:rolleyes: Looking for stall as well.

Rich
 
When I purchased my last Turbo Buick, it had the wrong converter in it. It would only stall around 1900-2000 max with the stock turbo. I swapped it out for a TCI 243016 converter and went from 2.1x sixty foots to 1.6 sixty foots.
 
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