twodafloor
Twodafloor
- Joined
- Feb 12, 2007
Just watched this- I learned something , maybe you will too!
The first fastener that comes to my mind: Lug nuts!
I've seen MANY arguments for/against lube on a wheel stud. Most wheel mfgrs have a torque spec for their products. However, I rarely see a instruction as to the use/not of a lube.
I'm wondering if a spec of 70 #/ft on a wheel lug is set, considering that the studs are "probably not" clean. So, the high torque is suggested to cover that possibility??
I recently had a real "shootout" w/ Billet Specialties about the junk lugs/washers on my Streetlites.
Seems they use 1 mfgr for the nuts, another for the washers. [Washers were too loose on the lug shank.] BOTH are soft, imported junk. 1 torque to 70#, and the edges of the hex tore the washers up, resulting in a loss of torque/rust/sharp edges. [The threads in the nuts looked to be cut w/ a dull tap, resulting in POOR fit.]
Gorilla was involved, sent me a new set, same story.
Bought a set of McGARDS. DONE DEAL!
Don't worry, you didn't lie to us to give you our bolts...lolThe commonly accepted figures for clean "straight torque" fasteners are 80-20. That means 80 percent of the torque you apply to a clean bolt goes into overcoming the friction. Only 20 percent of the torque translates into clamping force (bolt tension). So if you torque your main bolts to 100 ft/lbs, 80 ft/lbs gets used up in friction and only 20 ft/lbs goes into clamping the main caps in place.
Dirt in the fasteners or lack of proper lubrication makes the situation much worse. With dirty fasteners or no lube, more torque gets used up to overcome the friction and less torque translates into clamping force.
Moral of the story: clean your bolts and threaded holes before assembly and apply liberal amounts of the recommended lube. ( Damn, I never thought of myself as a liberal!)
My $.02....i wonder if this works for head bolts?