engine sputters and SES flickers HELP HELP !!!!

[jarredsoon]

I degreased and cleaned the crank sensor with brake clean and compressed air. Still popping and SES flickering. What does the crank sensor do while the car is on?? As I understand it is needed for starting the car, does it continue to have function after the car is on?? Also I can't find the ignition switch, will search for pics, is it a part that I can get if I need one??

Thanks

Jarred

 

[jarredsoon]

ALL FIXED!!!!

I rotated the cam sensor a bit counter clockwise and then the car would not start. Then I rotated it clockwise a bit and she fired right up, now I can go 19lbs boost and VROOOOM!!! No popping, no SES light, no knock, just FAST!!! And a little smell of rubber.

Thanks to all who replied and pm's me. This board rocks!!!

Jarred

 

[TurboBuRick]

Nice!

 

[jarredsoon]

It's BACK!!!!!

I rotated and rotated the cam sensor, each time would give improvement but then it came back. So I swapped out the cam sensor with a known good one that I had spare. I made sure it was installed correctly and still bad!!! Could this be a bad or wiped cam lobe??? I am running a flat tappat with Joe Gobbs oil and Zddp additive.

WHat do you guys think?

THanks

Jarred

 

[Tim's#1489 TTA]

My TTA is doing the exact same thing and I am thinking it may be the fuel filter. It does seem to be fuel related to me

 

[Eric Stage I]

If the SES light is rapidly blinking on/off, then that is typically a connection issue between the chip and ecm. Is that what it's doing? or does it come on solid for a certain amount of time?

 

[jarredsoon]

Yes it blinks on and off rapidly. I have removed the chip and inspected the connection tangs, they all seem good. I have inspected the pins on the two ECM wire connectors. I have swapped chips with another chip to see if that helps. I have tried a new ECM.... I am running out of ideas. It's fine if I ease into about 15lbs boost but when I stab the throttle it breaks up and the SES light flickers.... I might check the fuel filter but my in car fuel pressure gauge shows that my pressure rises 1:1 with boost psi so I think it's prolly not a fuel issue.

What else could it be??

At this point I'll try anything, I don't want to tear into anything too far without good reason, bit this could be caused by a bad cam lobe right?? Correct me if I am wrong.

Thanks

Jarred

 

[whitehot1]

It's BACK!!!!!

I rotated and rotated the cam sensor, each time would give improvement but then it came back. So I swapped out the cam sensor with a known good one that I had spare. I made sure it was installed correctly and still bad!!! Could this be a bad or wiped cam lobe??? I am running a flat tappat with Joe Gobbs oil and Zddp additive.

WHat do you guys think?

THanks

Jarred

So it was running good from Sept.4 until this past Friday? Did all the scanmaster numbers look ok during this time?

If it was a bad cam / lobe it wouldn't change from running good for awhile to running bad again.

 

[jarredsoon]

Yeah I turned the cam sensor as suggested and it worked well, then came back. So I turned the cam sensor a bit more, worked again, then came back. Turned cam sensor again.... Then I tried a whole new cam sensor, and still very bad. Car starts and idles like a dream. cruises fine, mild acceleration is great. It's only when you stab throttle or let boost go past 15. I will double check sm number tomorrow am and post them. Maybe you guys will see something I don't.

 

[jarredsoon]

OK I have scan master numbers from this morning with the car at idle and warm.

882 00
AF 05
bat 13.1
Int 128
bL 122
mph 00
CLt 171
r 825
tps .44
IAC 15
MAL 00

I was driving a long stretch of road and when I light throttle the car to 20lbs boost everything works well and when I hammer on the gas I get pops and breaks at 15lbs. So I put the scan master onto tps while driving and noticed the max number is about 3.5. With the ignition on but motor off I mashed the pedal to the floor and the max tps was 3.5, then 3.7 then after waiting a sec it went to 3.81. Is it not supposed to go up to 4.5??? Could this be my problem?? If it is can anyone explain why my popping symptoms got better by rotating the cam sensor?

Thanks

Jarred

 

[billy 420]

Correct me if im wrong (im sure someone will ) ,when you turn the cam sensor your tps readings change also ,dont they?

 

[Blazer406]

Correct me if im wrong (im sure someone will ) ,when you turn the cam sensor your tps readings change also ,dont they?

No sir... Tps only changes if you adjust it by itself, or if you bump the idle screw up.

 

[Mike Licht]

Every time I have seen this problem it was one of the battery cables, 90% of the time the positive battery cable has a small short when the engine rocks over or the car hits a bump. It is usually hard to find and guys swear that the cable is fine but ...... also make sure the neg cable has a good connection to the block I cant tell you how many times a customer would change a turbo and then bring in the car to see the Negative cable not connected to the motor and the car running on the little 10 ga body ground. The SES light flashes when the pos is shorted to ground

 

[Heisenberg]

Not to throw out a red herring -
I don't think this is it - since I can't recall that my SES light flickered - although sorta - but the orange connector to the ECM near the battery was flaky and during hard accel or cornering, it would get jostled and cut me off for a second.
But I do believe the engine died and I had to restart - so maybe a different scenario.
But that connection is always worth looking at - or course - they're part and parcel of the positive battery cable - so if it gets replaced - you have at least half a new orange ECM wire.
If I'm not mistaken, there is a fusible link there and I've seen several that have been spliced or haywired.